On Fri, 08 Feb 2008 16:19:54 -0000 "Dana Christensen"
writes:
> Hey all.
> I have 3 questions and was wondering if anyone had answers.
>
> 1) With the oil disscussion over, lets move over to the oil filter.
>
> Are there good/bad ones? what should I be looking for AND how offten
>
> do others change them. This is my first bike after many years (2008)
>
> and I need to get back into the mind set again of maint and upkeep.
>
> 2) Does anyone have or know of a PMS scheduling or posting of
> recommended scheduling? I know that what the Kawasaki dealer
> believes
> to be true is only for the advertiseing and not set from the
> owner/users standpoint. After years in the service I am a firm
> believer in the set and solid PMS (Preventitive Maint Schedule)
> method of equipment maint.
>
> 3) Is there a web site or Email for Eagle Mike? (stupid question, I
>
> know) and is it his place in SD where the TECH day is going to be
> held?
> I am thinking of trying to do my "do" while im there but have some
> questions and reservations.
>
> Thanks to you all for your inputs, wisdom, rantings and knowledge. I
>
> have been and avid reader/lurker but am feeling more at home and a
> part of the group.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Dana
>
> '08 KLR
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Dana,
I don't have any experience with the 2008 models other than I've talked
with a couple of guys that had just bought them last fall or a couple of
guys locally that had test ridden one. I did look at the owner's manual
a few weeks ago just to see what it really said about oil changes and
valve adjustment intervals.
So knowing the above I'll tell you I'm basing my suggestions on my
experiences with 1987-2007 models.
1) Oil filters. Somebody a year or two or so ago got on the list and
talked about how they had examined a few different oil filters. As I
recall they weren't very impressed with many oil filters with the media
that was used. I'm not quite so picky with my filters. I do examine the
media on every filter I take out of my KLR. In fact I save each filter
labeled with date and mileage. It's an eye opener when you look at the
first few filter changes. I don't know that there is one oil filter
better than another. I use Emgo filters (I think the number is 10-30000)
because I bought 20 for less than $2 a filter. I think the OEM filters
cost close to $9 each. I recently bought a FRAM filter (CH6070) to find
out if it really did come with an o-ring. It did. Cost was about $6.50
I think but the o-ring alone at the dealer is about $5. I don't change
the o-ring when I change a filter but I do clean and lube it. I've got
23,000+ miles on my KLR with no leaks on the original filter. Yet. : )
I suggest you figure out how often you're gonna change a filter each year
and then buy something that meets your cost and quality requirements.
I'm adding a 1a, 1b and 1c as I have comments that go well with this
subject.
1a) I change the filter each oil change usually if I'm at home. When
I'm traveling I start with fresh oil and filter and then only change the
oil while on the road. I've been doing oil analysis so my oil change
interval is in flux. I started at 1,000 smiles and then increased it 250
smiles each oil change while I see how the analysis results look. I had
an issue with my engine after a high temperature incident last summer and
that delayed getting to the 2,000 mile mark for oil changes. I hope to
get to that early this year. Currently I can tell you I'm using Rotella
15w/40 dino oil and it works well in my KLR the way I use it up to 1,750
smiles. I think it will go very close to 2,000 smiles before being a 30
weight. I'll share the results when I get them. I think a guy could go
5,000 plus miles on a filter without problems if the engine is in good
condition. I did that on the Great Divide Ride in 2004 and when
examining the filter I can't tell any difference from one with only 1,500
smiles on it.
1b) I suggest you clean the oil pick up screen under the right side case
cover. It's about the size of a thimble and I think it should be cleaned
soon after you get 1,000 miles on the bike. It takes maybe two hours if
you don't mess something up and you'll probably feel pretty good when
done knowing it is clean. Until I the oil screen is cleaned I think it's
worth changing the filter with every oil change.
1c) I'm guessing the 2008 models still use a 12mm drain plug. If so I
suggest you replace the stock drain plug crush washer with a NAPA soft
washer. Part number is 704-1371. Cost is about $1. This soft washer is
reuseable numerous times. I've probably used mine with a dozen oil
changes. It takes less torque than the stock aluminum washer to seal. I
think it will help prevent folks from overtorquing the drain plug as it
seals so well.
2) First, thanks for your service to our country. I appreciate it. I
too served and was well versed in preventative maintenance. For whatever
it's worth I think equipment can get over maintained very easily. I
understand the thought process the military uses for it's equipment and
it's expected performance. I think that would be too much for most folks
KLR use. Enough said about that. : ) I don't know of a computerized or
web site with PMS on it. My suggestion is you change the oil no less
than every 12 months, right before storage if the bike won't be used for
an extended period or not more than 2,000 miles. Change the coolant
every other year or 12,000 miles or so. Adjust the valves by 1,500 miles
(I know the dealer says it's not needed until 15,000 miles) and then
check and adjust as needed every 10,000 miles. Maybe reduce that to
6,000 miles if you are a hard rider with lots of high rpms. High being
extended intervals over 5,000 rpm. Check tire pressure every two days of
riding or if it hasn't been checked in a week. Check the chain tension
when you check tires or fill with fuel. Lube the chain when you feel
like it with whatever you want to spray on it. I use white lithium
grease to lube/protect the o-rings and then WD-40 to wash dirt off the
chain. Check battery fluid levels at each oil change and only use
distilled water to top off the cells. Do not over fill. Check fasteners
regularly when you are touring. Carry the tools in a handy location (I
use my tank bag) and don't be afraid to get them out for a few minutes
and visit with your bike and see how it's holding up. The more you do
this the better feel you'll get for how often you need to check
fasteners. Clean the air cleaner every oil change if you are riding in
dusty conditions. Maybe less if only on pavement. Maybe everyday if in
really dusty conditions like following Steve Rankin or Martin Earl in the
dirt. I use No Toil air filter maintenance products because they are
environmentally friendly, work well, are easy to use and are available at
many locations. Change your fork oil by 15,000 miles or so. Lube your
rear suspension linkages as soon as you possibly can. Same for the
steering head bearings. Do not pressure wash the steering head, rear
suspension or wheel bearings unless you are going to immediately pull
them apart and service them. Bet I forgot a few items other folks on the
list will add. : )
3) Eagle Mike will probably contact you as he monitor this list. Trust
him and do what he suggests. He won't lead you wrong. Do the doohickey
and you'll be glad you did. I suggest you DO NOT adjust the doohickey
until after you've changed it. Mike can show you how to look to see if
it was working once you get into the engine. I've seen doohickeys that
moved more than 1/4" once I started to pry them off the case. If the
owner had "adjusted" it they would have thought everything was fine when
in reality nothing happened. Also, if the spring is broken (my 2003 was
broken at 3,200 smiles) if you adjust it any tension on the balancer
chain will be lost. Again, you won't know it as from the outside
everything looks the fine.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT