Wilsons Sandbox

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "steventbarnett" wrote:

> > OK, I did a successful valve adjustment (my second), but when I went > to tighten the four fasteners attaching holding down the cover one of > the holes was stripped (mea culpa, but that's another story). It's > the forward, right side hole. > > Questions is what to do now? I took it to two shops to see about > putting in a helicoil, but was told by both that they couldn't get the > proper angle on it while the motor is still in the bike. Because I > live in Panama (and don't have access in a short time to a new > gasket), I don't really see removing the head as an option. There > seems to be some thread left in the bottom (current fastener doesn't > reach) so maybe having a new longer fastener made is an option. > Any other ideas? I'm supposed to leave for a trip in two weeks and > need to get it running. >

Quickest and most accurate answer: http://www.eagle-m-e.com/index.html Call him. He's the best. ED

I changed the subject to NKLR ... Your good experience with BMW's echoes many I've heard. My bad experience with BMW's also echoes many I've heard. Could BMW have a quality control problem? Why are there so many BMWs that run forever, and so many that die repeatedly in expensive ways? Could it be service? I know people that give the dealer their bike twice a year and tell them to do whatever it needs. What vehicle wouldn't last if all worn parts were replaced twice a year? thoughts? thanks, Chris -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andrus Chesley Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 5:05 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Concours vs BMW GS --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "James Morrow Sr" wrote:

> > 1995 is first year of oilhead, lots of problems.

Run my '95 R11GSA 50K miles in 3 years including running over a deer. Not never any problems cept a slight pull to the left when taking my hands off the bars after hitting the deer. Still run it for another 20K after the incident. ''97 R11RA./ about 30K miles in 3 years. No problems except banging the bottom of the engine on rocks on mountain backroads. Hence. '03 R1150GSA 50K miles in 4 years. Never a problem. Got rid of it due to dealer problems and distance and just wanted to try something else for a bit. '43 Andy in Louisiana '00 KLR650 '03 Chevy truck '06 DL1000

On Thu, 24 Jan 2008 13:20:43 -0000 "steventbarnett" writes:

> OK, I did a successful valve adjustment (my second), but when I went > to tighten the four fasteners attaching holding down the cover one > of > the holes was stripped (mea culpa, but that's another story). It's > the forward, right side hole. > > Questions is what to do now? I took it to two shops to see about > putting in a helicoil, but was told by both that they couldn't get > the > proper angle on it while the motor is still in the bike. Because I > live in Panama (and don't have access in a short time to a new > gasket), I don't really see removing the head as an option. There > seems to be some thread left in the bottom (current fastener > doesn't > reach) so maybe having a new longer fastener made is an option. > Any other ideas? I'm supposed to leave for a trip in two weeks and > need to get it running.

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Steven, I just took a look at the manual as I couldn't remember what the top of the head looks like. Peeking at my KLR which is fully assembled I also can't really see clearance amounts. But here's an idea that might be worth consideration. A temporary fix that might work would probably be more the way I'd go if in your situation. If there really is thread below the stripped out portion I think I'd probably try to find a longer bolt that would fit there. I'd test fit it to make sure I got a couple of threads worth of engagement before it bottoms in the hole. If I have enough engagement to feel comfortable that it would hold the low amount of torque I'd continue. I'd probably cut the head off the bolt so I now have a stud. I'd want it long enough to stick well above the valve cover when in place. I'd install the valve cover and the three other special bolts and maybe even tighten them a bit. Then I'd install the "new" stud till it bottoms in the hole. I'd put the special rubber sealing washer over the new stud and then find a washer that would fit the stud and cover the hole in the valve cover. A wave washer (metric lock washer) would go on next and then a nut would be last. I'd be gentle on the torque knowing I could always try a bit more later if I had a leak. I figure having the stud in place and tightening the nut on the stud will put less stress on the few threads left in the head. The stud would need to be removed each time you want to remove the valve cover but I don't see that as a huge problem. At a later date you could make a better repair if needed. I've got a feeling you could make this happen in about 30 minutes if you have access to a long bolt, large washer, locking type washer and nut. You'd also need a hacksaw and file to clean up the cut when you remove the head of the bolt. If I had access to Hylomar sealing goop I'd probably use a very thin coating of that on the gasket sealing surface and the special washers with each bolt. That will not harden, clog oil passages or be hard to remove. The problem is Hylomar is tougher to find now than it was even three years ago and it is kind of expensive. A little will go a long way. If I didn't have Hylomar available I'd probably not use anything unless I really thought I'd have an issue with a leak. Then I'd pick a sealer that was non hardening. I'd also use it very sparingly. Hope you find something that works for you. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "steventbarnett" wrote:

> > OK, I did a successful valve adjustment (my second), but when I went > to tighten the four fasteners attaching holding down the cover one of > the holes was stripped (mea culpa, but that's another story). It's > the forward, right side hole. > > Questions is what to do now? I took it to two shops to see about > putting in a helicoil, but was told by both that they couldn't get the > proper angle on it while the motor is still in the bike. Because I > live in Panama (and don't have access in a short time to a new > gasket), I don't really see removing the head as an option. There > seems to be some thread left in the bottom (current fastener doesn't > reach) so maybe having a new longer fastener made is an option. > Any other ideas? I'm supposed to leave for a trip in two weeks and > need to get it running. >

Is there another place to try to get help? I've done several of these and always been able to get it done in the bike. Sometimes it is a bit of a challenge, but it is doable. Helicoil is the way to go if you can get it done. Loctite or Permatex also make a thread repair product that some people have used. I would not consider those for a long trip though - just for local use where help is available is there is an oil leak. The factory torque spec for those bolts is too high, IMHO. I've seen and heard about many of them stripping. We even had one bolt come out with the threads at first service at a tech day - the bolts had never been out before. So - I use 55 INCH-lbs for the torque setting. Factory is 69 INCH-lbs. all the best, Mike