Wilsons Sandbox

On Jan 17, 2008, at 9:09 PM, paguerra wrote:

> I am considering a 2008 KLR and heard that the service intervals were > different than for the previous model. For example, no valve check > until 15k miles, change oil every 7k miles. True?

So you've heard from several folks about them measuring the valve clearance and finding that they need adjustment far sooner than the manual claims. To provide similar empirical evidence regarding your oil change question you can search this list's archives to find the results of used oil analysis from myself, Jeff Saline, Rev. Martin, and others. All showed that 1,500 to 2,000 miles was the longest interval that any oil (conventional or synthetic) could hold up in our applications. The engine and transmission produce incredible shearing forces that reduce the oil's viscosity very quickly, and the unsophisticated paper oil filters don't do a great job of filtering all the clutch particles nor the dirt that makes it past the air filter. So, the best thing you can do for the longevity of your engine and transmission is to change the oil frequently. -- Blake Sobiloff http://www.sobiloff.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

Had a first today. The worn-out chain on the KLR broke and left me stranded, Very Luckily only about a mile from home, and at low speed. I knew it was due for replacement but not THAT due! Made for an unexpected workout pushing the big black&green pig up the hills. I had been a little heavy-handed on the throttle during the morning ride, came home for lunch and an oil change, even oiled the chain before going out for an afternoon ride. Mile from home, hit second gear after pulling away from a light, odd crunchy noise, instant neutral in any gear, look in the mirror and see my chain doing a dead snake act in the road. Humph. So far no visible damage or oil running out on the ground. I think the plastic chain guard is designed to take the brunt of the abuse from a broken chain, and I already have a spare. Now I just need a chain. Got the sprockets a while ago but couldn't decide which chain to get. Price doesn't always reflect quality, Any suggestions? I've had DID and Regina in the past. The cheap basic non-o-ring chains are exactly that, and stretch like knicker elastic, as they say in the UK. I had a DID o-ring on an XL175 that lasted forever but it was way under-stressed for a 520 chain. I don't mind spending for a premium chain but don't know which brand is really worth the extra dough. I wouldn't be surprised if this was the original chain and sprockets with 24k miles on them. The bike got very little in the way of maintenance from its previous owners and is loving the TLC it's getting from me. The motor now purrs away like a big happy lawnmower but the chassis basically needs everything; front tire, steering bearings, fork seals, fork oil, new springs or longer spacers for more preload, lube the dogbones and linkage in the back, and now chain and sprockets before everything else. A rear shock $wap wouldn't hurt either. btw, I think I'll go with a rivet link, if anybody cares. The feeling of a chain letting go is not an experience I want to repeat any time soon! Could have been a lot worse if it happened at a higher speed or further from home. ian ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs