Wilsons Sandbox

On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 01:46:36 -0000 "Mark Driscoll" writes:

> I have recently purchased a 2000 KLR650. I have enjoyed the bike. > > This evening, I noticed two leads in the fairing. One is B/Y and the > > other is W/B. They appear to be controlled by the ignition switch. > Are > these for an "auxiliary" circuit? If so, what is the max load for > the > circuit? > > Thanks > > Mark

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Mark, You're correct. They are for the City Lights circuit on I think European bikes. The max load isn't much. Sorry I don't have an exact number for you. Folks that run heated grips and other higher draw items on this circuit probably have a significant voltage drop at the accessory without even realizing it. My suggestion is to use these wires to control a relay (terminals 85 & 86 on the relay, doesn't matter which goes to which in this case) running power (fused) straight from the battery to the relay (terminal 30) and then from the relay (terminal 87) to the accessory. Of course from the accessory you need to return to ground. You'll have the relay activated anytime the key is in the on or park position. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

For folks who would like to learn some basic techniques for adding electrical farkles to a bike, from crimping and soldering to a great write up on installing an aux fusebox, checkout: http://www.ironbutt.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1759&PN=1&TPN=1 You may have to register to get to the site.

On Jan 15, 2008 8:00 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 01:46:36 -0000 "Mark Driscoll" > > writes: > > I have recently purchased a 2000 KLR650. I have enjoyed the bike. > > > > This evening, I noticed two leads in the fairing. One is B/Y and the > > > > other is W/B. They appear to be controlled by the ignition switch. > > Are > > these for an "auxiliary" circuit? If so, what is the max load for > > the > > circuit? > > > > Thanks > > > > Mark > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Mark, > > You're correct. They are for the City Lights circuit on I think European > bikes. The max load isn't much. Sorry I don't have an exact number for > you. Folks that run heated grips and other higher draw items on this > circuit probably have a significant voltage drop at the accessory without > even realizing it. > > My suggestion is to use these wires to control a relay (terminals 85 & 86 > on the relay, doesn't matter which goes to which in this case) running > power (fused) straight from the battery to the relay (terminal 30) and > then from the relay (terminal 87) to the accessory. Of course from the > accessory you need to return to ground. > > You'll have the relay activated anytime the key is in the on or park > position. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 21:55:55 -0600 "Kevin Powers" writes:

> For folks who would like to learn some basic techniques for adding > electrical farkles to a bike, from crimping and soldering to a great > write > up on installing an aux fusebox, checkout: > http://www.ironbutt.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1759&PN=1&TPN=1 > > You may have to register to get to the site.

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Kevin, Thanks for sharing that site. It has some pretty good info on how to safely install electrical stuff. One point that might be missed for some is all the circuits installed are fused immediately after the battery. That is a very good precaution as an early fuse will help protect the majority of the circuit from damage. I suppose it would have been helpful if the author had included a short bit about how to choose the correct fuse rating for the circuit. Basically folks can figure it out based on the early calculations required to figure out the wire size requirements. If you are going to have a 6 amp load you'll need at least a 6 amp fuse. But maybe no need to use something as large as a 15 amp fuse unless the wiring will handle that load. I often use a fuse just larger than the expected load on my accessory sockets to help prevent me from overloading the rather small KLR650 charging system capabilities. I'd rather replace a fuse than push start or jump the bike later on because I drained the battery from using too many amps. The purpose of the fuse is you want it to blow before the insulation melts or the wiring catches on fire. : ) Choose small enough to insure that happens. I know many folks replace the stock 10 amp fuse in the KLR650 wiring system for the headlight circuit with a 15 amp fuse. And I don't remember hearing of anyone having a problem with that replacement, yet. But I'll suggest that if folks do the calculations on the entire headlight wiring system it won't handle a 15 amp load reliably. Maybe the switch contacts are the real weak link in that system. Well, thanks again for sending that link. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Check the exhaust nuts on the head and the clamp arounf the mid-pipe for tightness. I reckon one of the nuts will be a tad loose at the head. Thanks CA Stu

> -----Original Message----- > Posted by: "Tumu Rock" guymanbro@... guymanbro > Date: Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:22 am ((PST)) > > Checked your oil lately? > > da Vermonster > > who has on more than one occasion been told by his KLR riding > woman that the bike sounds > like it needed oil....when it DID. > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "gust0261" > wrote: > > > > > > Anybody recognize this sound? > > What could it be? > > Is it bad for the bike or dangerous? > > > > > > KLR650 2007 > > 10,000 miles