Wilsons Sandbox

Components and/or procedure reviewed: (1) filling the handlebars with birdshot (2) upgrade left-hand OEM switch group that controls/affects: horn, headlights, choke lever, mirror mount, turn signals Review (1) Last year, I packed my bars with #8 birdshot and epoxied the ends. I hit Baja to Prudhoe Bay and a lot in between and experienced the feel/results in temperature extremes and conditions. Overall, I'd give the procedure a 7 (where a 1 is "made it worse" and a 10 is "honey? check laundry and couch cushions, this is a must-do!"). I think the benefit is good, but it doesn't eliminate all vibration-- just reduces it. I'd welcome trying/comparing things like filling the bars with latex or silicone like others have recommended but a more interesting an quick install/test would be simply adding bar ends or a combo bar ends and filler. Nonetheless all of these--save bar ends alone--are a bit messy not to mention the birdshot involves lead which could be substituted for steel duck-shot. What was I writing about? Something is wrong with my mind...oh...oh yeah, vibration. So...we're trying to reduce/eliminate cavity air/exchange (air vibration) and change the harmonic frequency of the bars themselves. But without expensive and major mods, completely eliminating vibration just isn't in the cards, but a notable reduction is. Mind you, if you have heated handgrips, be careful. Those can be hot enough to melt glue, latex and standard silicone. Anyone do that mod and have their new hand grips rotating endlessly?? I have because I didn't use high-temp glue/epoxy. So make sure consider hi-temp if you any adhesive/sealer. If I were to do it again, I'd start with the bar ends and then fill the cavity hi-temp silicone. Lastly, if using birdshot or pressure packing sealant into the handlebars, pay attention to the tiny holes in handle bars roughly 5 inches from the ends pointing down (aka weep holes) especially on the left-hand side. After I installed the new LH control groups (see below) some birdshot fell out of this hole and fouled the operation of the control. Yes, I couldn't get the right blinker to operate as it should, and if it did, I had to hold it to the right completely voiding the push-to-cancel farklization! So I disassembled it and found enough birdshot in there to prevent proper movement. Cleaned, taped the hole and all is good. Review (2) It's a 10 bay-bay! Wow. I just love this set-up. Why doesn't KLR offer it as an option from the factory?! I'd pay $200 extra off the showroom floor (the one point where we're most susceptible to gouging, anyway...ha ha) for it and recommend buyers do, too. Pinch me, I know. I got this instrument control and a small metal bracket(from Fred Hink/Arrowhead MS), and it packs features and function. The push-to- cancel is just "the right thing to do" but notably the headlight over- ride switch is brilliant. Prior to this upgrade, I had upgraded to a toggle switch with relay setup that controlled headlight over-ride (previously available thru TotallyWired). I liked it but that setup was more a poor-man's solution steeped in tradition KLR ethos of coming-up with "something that'll work." Now, with this new little beauty, I've since removed that old-school rig, and smile turning corners pushing to cancel with pride...vs. fooling with that slider or [worse] blinking endlessly. I'm so thrilled with using it, I can't wait for the next opportunity which vitually eliminates the endless blinking syndrome. This control switch looks great--equal or better than OEM-- but what really sets it apart is the option for more power to start the engine or use accessories and [my favorite] run special-ops in the shadows! This is all at your left fingertips. It has an intermediate position (middle of 3...off-parking-on) for just parking lights. Need to flash your hi-beams? Well, check-out the under-marketed isolated trigger finger switch that allows you to fire your 30mm automatic Boeing M230 chain gun located under the fuselage. It provides a rate of fire of 625 rounds per minute and capacity for up to 1,200 rounds of ammunition. Or have it reconfingered to control your Lockheed Martin/Boeing AGM-114D Longbow Hellfire air-to-surface missile which has a millimetre wave seeker which allows the missile to perform in full fire and forget mode. Range is 8km to 12km. Folks!...I'm terribly sorry I got this review confused with the Apache helicopter. But you can understand my enthusiasm and parallel confusion here... The flashes can be used for politely reminding on- coming hi-beamers or signal you're passing (take cover?) or a even make-shift campfire disco bulb if you're desperate. Still my mind drifts...wondering...boy, wouldn't this switch serve better as a launch button for some Zuni rockets for removing that stubborn car that just pulled out right in front of me? Anyhooo...the horn button is similar in function and form to stock. Note that you are required to purchase/obtain the small metal bracket that secures the clutch lever to handlebars and relocates the choke lever and mirror here. Because once you remove the OEM control assembly, you no longer have anywhere on the new control to mount the choke lever and mirror and you need some way to secure the clutch. The bracket makes it easy. The plastic controller group cost me $79.95 and the small metal bracket $16.95, but I've seen the entire kit for as little as $71.58. This job is entirely plug-n-play. Unplug the control at the connector, undo some tie-wraps (reuse the Kawi ones with release tab), remove the mounting screws, mirror and choke lever. Then, re- secure the clutch lever to the handlebars with the new small bracket (2 screws), mount the new control with two screws from underneath, route the wire, plug it in, tie-wrap the wire, then re-mount the choke lever on the new metal bracket (see re-securing clutch lever above) and then the mirror. Don't forget your old vib-dampers if you have them. Total of say 20 minutes. Now play. It's a great, easy- to-do visual and functional upgrade with push-to-cancel (like it should be) and a true control for the headlights. Best regards - Brian