Wilsons Sandbox

My Electric 1/2" drive Impact attempting the c/s nut the "first" time it was removed, all I could hear was the impact hammering away and that nut giggling at it. Easier to have somebody on the bike basically standing on the rear brake, and use a cheaper pipe for the factory installed (read:overtorqued) nut. Dooden A15 Green Ape --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "traderpro2003" wrote:

> > Eric where you really good at Twister? Everyone needs and impact > wrench/setup. They're so cheap and even compressors are 120V these > days. Electric impacts are much weaker but probably ok for this. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne

wrote:

> > > > > > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to

remove

> the front sprocket > > without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down > enough to break the nut > > loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it. > Thanks a lot..... robert > > > > > > Okay, first of all, you did flatten out the washer behind that

big

> nut, right? If you don't do > > that, you're gonna have problems . > > > > Okay, washer is nice and flat. So here's what I do. First, put

the

> bike in neutral and lean it > > on the side stand. Then assemble the correct tools. I have a

piece

> of 4-foot galvanized > > steel pipe, and a half-inch ratchet with the correct socket. I

get

> on bike and lean it to the > > right. I place the ratchet on the nut, then slide the 4-foot

steel

> pipe over the handle of the > > ratchet. I position the ratchet and the end of the pipe so that I > can pull up while sitting on > > the seat. Then, while keeping a little pressure on the

pipe/ratchet

> combo to keep them on > > the nut, I carefully lean the bike back onto its kickstand, place > my left foot on the left > > footpeg and my right foot on the rear brake pedal, and lift up

the

> end of that big cheater > > pipe while slowly standing up on the peg/rear brake. It'll feel > rubbery due to the cush > > damper in the rear hub and the chain slack, but just keep pulling > on that pipe, and > > eventually the nut itself will break loose. It'll take more

torque

> than you expect, but it'll be > > less of an abrupt break than you expect too (thanks to all that > rubber damping) . You may > > need to repeat this a few times before the nut is easy enough to > remove without the > > cheater pipe. Or maybe not (shrug). > > > > Or if you have access to an impact wrench... but my guess is that > if you had access to an > > impact wrench, you wouldn't be asking us this question . > > > > Don't worry about breaking the chain, BTW. Common chains used on > the KLR will hold up > > to several thousand pounds of pressure. You are going to be at

most

> putting 150 foot- > > pounds of torque onto this chain. It isn't breaking, no way, no > how, even with a four-foot > > cheater pipe. And if it does break, it's defective and you're > better off with a new chain > > anyhow . > > >

All- My dad needs to sell his R1100GS due to an unrelated car accident. The bike is located in Western Massachusetts, and he's the third owner, the first being my brother. 1996 R1100GS $6,000 obo *Touratech 11 gallon tank *Jesse Odyssey bags *Ohlins shocks front and rear *Crash bars (hepco and becker I think, but am not sure) *Touratech front headlight conversion with driving light mount *External fuel filter with quick disconnect line *new fuel injection pump *Tourances are a few thousand miles old *New switch sets on both handlebars *New brakes lines and fluid *New fork seals and fluid *Heads just pulled, cleaned, and valve job done *69,2xx miles Pictures: http://mackzully.smugmug.com/gallery/3898470 If you have any questions, feel free to ask, the answers might be a bit delayed though as I'll have to relay them to my brother who has intimate knowledge of the bike and its history. Thanks, Z