My Electric 1/2" drive Impact attempting the c/s nut the "first" time
it was removed, all I could hear was the impact hammering away and
that nut giggling at it.
Easier to have somebody on the bike basically standing on the rear
brake, and use a cheaper pipe for the factory installed
(read:overtorqued) nut.
Dooden
A15 Green Ape
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "traderpro2003"
wrote:
>
> Eric where you really good at Twister? Everyone needs and impact
> wrench/setup. They're so cheap and even compressors are 120V these
> days. Electric impacts are much weaker but probably ok for this.
>
> --- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote:
> >
> > --- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne
wrote:
> > >
> > > I would appreciate some good advice from anyone on how to
remove
> the front sprocket
> > without screwing something up. Can't seem to lock things down
> enough to break the nut
> > loose!!!! It must have had a bunch of foot pounds put on it.
> Thanks a lot..... robert
> >
> >
> > Okay, first of all, you did flatten out the washer behind that
big
> nut, right? If you don't do
> > that, you're gonna have problems
.
> >
> > Okay, washer is nice and flat. So here's what I do. First, put
the
> bike in neutral and lean it
> > on the side stand. Then assemble the correct tools. I have a
piece
> of 4-foot galvanized
> > steel pipe, and a half-inch ratchet with the correct socket. I
get
> on bike and lean it to the
> > right. I place the ratchet on the nut, then slide the 4-foot
steel
> pipe over the handle of the
> > ratchet. I position the ratchet and the end of the pipe so that I
> can pull up while sitting on
> > the seat. Then, while keeping a little pressure on the
pipe/ratchet
> combo to keep them on
> > the nut, I carefully lean the bike back onto its kickstand, place
> my left foot on the left
> > footpeg and my right foot on the rear brake pedal, and lift up
the
> end of that big cheater
> > pipe while slowly standing up on the peg/rear brake. It'll feel
> rubbery due to the cush
> > damper in the rear hub and the chain slack, but just keep pulling
> on that pipe, and
> > eventually the nut itself will break loose. It'll take more
torque
> than you expect, but it'll be
> > less of an abrupt break than you expect too (thanks to all that
> rubber damping) . You may
> > need to repeat this a few times before the nut is easy enough to
> remove without the
> > cheater pipe. Or maybe not (shrug).
> >
> > Or if you have access to an impact wrench... but my guess is that
> if you had access to an
> > impact wrench, you wouldn't be asking us this question
.
> >
> > Don't worry about breaking the chain, BTW. Common chains used on
> the KLR will hold up
> > to several thousand pounds of pressure. You are going to be at
most
> putting 150 foot-
> > pounds of torque onto this chain. It isn't breaking, no way, no
> how, even with a four-foot
> > cheater pipe. And if it does break, it's defective and you're
> better off with a new chain
> > anyhow
.
> >
>