spoke truing?

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

Gents, the dogbone monkeyface lever is stuck on the engine side with the pivot bolt out! With all bolts out. Plenty of play on each side, as the seals were removed. It must be the needle bearings that sled out of place. So it seems it will take a grinder to cut it loose, on both sides? Cannot leave it like this, it rattles and is too loose. Jake ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/

[Jeff Saline]

On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 05:04:16 -0800 (PST) Jacobus De Bruyn writes:

> Gents, > > the dogbone monkeyface lever is stuck on the engine > side with the pivot bolt out! With all bolts out. > Plenty of play on each side, as the seals were > removed. It must be the needle bearings that sled out > of place. So it seems it will take a grinder to cut > it loose, on both sides? Cannot leave it like this, > it rattles and is too loose. Jake

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Jake, Man I do not envy you! That sounds like it's gonna be a bear to fix without messing up either the frame or the link. I took a look at mine just to make sure I know what you're talking about. It's a tight fit but I think doable with a bit of patience. If I was gonna have to do that I'd probably pull all the rear suspension parts off that I could so I'd have the most freedom of movement possible in that area. I'd also loosen the rear engine mount bolt and hope the frame moves apart a bit more to allow even more clearance between the linkage and frame. For a tool I think I'd try a hacksaw and take my time before I'd use a grinder. I think a grinder would be pretty tough to control in those conditions especially once you needed to get to the engine side of the linkage. If you have access to a Sawzall (electric hacksaw) I'd probably try that with a fine tooth blade. Probably a 32 tooth per inch blade if it was available. I have confidence you'll get it done but I don't think it'll be fast. Best of luck, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Michael Nelson]

How about just tapping the needle bearings back into place so you can remove the dogbone? If the problem is that they "sled" sideways out of position, slide 'em back. Michael -- "It's not what I don't understand about religion that bothers me, it's what I do understand." -- Mark Twain San Francisco, CA

[Ed Dobson]

Here's my guess. Don't think the needle bearings or sleeve can move into the frame and prevent UNI-TRAK arm removal. Remove the nuts from the UNI-TRAK arm pivot bolt, the rear engine-mount-bolt and the swingarm pivot bolt. Spread the frame with a block of wood. Remove UNI-TRAK arm. Hope this works. Follow repair manual for reassembly. ED --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jacobus De Bruyn wrote:

> > Gents, > > the dogbone monkeyface lever is stuck on the engine > side with the pivot bolt out! With all bolts out. > Plenty of play on each side, as the seals were > removed. It must be the needle bearings that sled out > of place. So it seems it will take a grinder to cut > it loose, on both sides? Cannot leave it like this, > it rattles and is too loose. Jake > > >

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[Ed Dobson]

Of course the U-T arm pivot bolt must be removed. DOH! ED

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Dobson" wrote: > > Here's my guess. > > Don't think the needle bearings or sleeve can move into the frame and > prevent UNI-TRAK arm removal. > > Remove the nuts from the UNI-TRAK arm pivot bolt, the rear > engine-mount-bolt and the swingarm pivot bolt. Spread the frame with a > block of wood. Remove UNI-TRAK arm. Hope this works. Follow repair > manual for reassembly. > > ED > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jacobus De Bruyn > wrote: > > > > Gents, > > > > the dogbone monkeyface lever is stuck on the engine > > side with the pivot bolt out! With all bolts out. > > Plenty of play on each side, as the seals were > > removed. It must be the needle bearings that sled out > > of place. So it seems it will take a grinder to cut > > it loose, on both sides? Cannot leave it like this, > > it rattles and is too loose. Jake > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > > Be a better pen pal. > > Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. > http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/ > > >

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 21 Nov 2007 05:22:11 -0000 "tilster187" writes:

> Hey, has anyone ever had their spokes trued on their bike? I took a > screwdriver to mine today and got quite a range of sounds. I'm not > sure if this greatly effects handling...

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> tilster187, I think I tightened a few spokes on my 2003 wheels last fall when I changed the tires. If I recall correctly I had one or two that were pretty loose. Besides doing the ring test with a wrench I also do a pinch test by squeezing two crossing spokes together. It's pretty easy to see when they are loose. I've respoked wheels and trued wheels and it can be time consuming if you're a perfectionist. I don't think my KLR wheels need to be perfect for the type of riding I do. But one loose spoke puts an extra burden on all the other spokes so it is worth tightening the loose ones. I do have one bent spoke on my front wheel from the "incident" on the Great Divide Ride in 2004. It doesn't seem to affect handling or performance at all so I leave it alone. I suggest if your wheels are running pretty close to true you only tighten the spokes that are way loose. And only tighten them a small bit so you don't pull the wheel out of true. I'm thinking if you try the ring test alone and true based on sound you'll have a wobbly wheel in no time. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT