speedometer repairs

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

After the break, I checked how the linkage system operates, and this won t do. I start to think about an electric hacksaw, and cut the lever loose from the engine, and thus have access to the mess inside there. New bearings still in the freezer, I hope my wife will not mistake them for soup bones. This wouldn t happen if the dealer had greased these bearings, as they should have when I brought the bike in their workshop. Or, even if they had greased them properly in the factory! Or installed zarts. But then I would not be having the fun I am having now. Anyone has any ideas how to best stop the fun, and get back to good old boredom? Thanks, Jake. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 10:01:56 -0800 (PST) Jacobus De Bruyn writes:

> After the break, I checked how the linkage system > operates, and this won t do. I start to think about > an electric hacksaw, and cut the lever loose from the > engine, and thus have access to the mess inside there. > New bearings still in the freezer, I hope my wife will > not mistake them for soup bones. This wouldn t happen > if the dealer had greased these bearings, as they > should have when I brought the bike in their workshop. > Or, even if they had greased them properly in the > factory! Or installed zarts. > But then I would not be having the fun I am having > now. Anyone has any ideas how to best stop the fun, > and get back to good old boredom? Thanks, Jake.

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Jake, A few years ago I was visiting with Steve Rankin in Texas for about 2 weeks. Part of the visit included servicing his swing arm bearings on the KLR he started De Tour with. He had bought that bike used with about 29,000 smiles on it I think the year before. It took three of us to get the swing arm out. Steve was on the bolt head side with a large breaker bar and socket. He rotated the bolt about 70 degrees while I was on the other side with the nut on the end of the bolt most of the way and holding a large punch on the end of the bolt. The nut was on to help keep from mushrooming the end of the bolt. Kent from New Mexico was there too and he was swinging a sledge hammer against the punch. It's not very often I'll hold something while I allow someone else to hit it with a hammer. We'd soaked the bolt and bearings with penetrating oil and about 15 minutes with the hammer got the bolt out. The bolt cleaned up well and we were able to reuse it. Two of the bearings were shot and if I recall correctly it cost him about $75 to get the replacement parts in a week. They had to be special ordered. One thing that is helpful when removing or reinstalling the dog bone linkage is to loosen (but not remove) the rear engine mount bolt. If I recall correctly it's a 14mm socket on the nut. That will allow the frame to spring apart a tad and the linkage will slip in and out without problems. Just don't forget to retorque the mount bolt later. Good luck with your bolt removal. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

Last week, I removed an engine from a '90 Tengai. I got the swingarm bolts, which were severely seized and corroded, out VERY easily with an air impact hammer operating at 90psi. I used the pointed tip for, drilled a pilot dimple in the end of the bolt to hold the hammer tip, leaned into it and zzzzap, zap, zap, the bolts came right out. Mark

[Michael Martin]

--- Jeff Saline wrote:

> > One thing that is helpful when removing or reinstalling the dog bone > linkage is to loosen (but not remove) the rear engine mount bolt. If I > recall correctly it's a 14mm socket on the nut. That will allow the > frame to spring apart a tad and the linkage will slip in and out without > problems. Just don't forget to retorque the mount bolt later. >

Great suggestion, Jeff. I didn't know to do this when I lubed the suspension linkage on my A19 which had 5000 miles on it when I bought it. It took some determined levering to get the dog bone out. When it came time to reinstall it, I was concerned about how to get it forced back into position. I figured out that loosening the engine mount bolt as you describe would ease the dog bone installation. Once the dog bone was reinstalled and I tightened the engine mount bolt, I noticed that the frame brackets didn't pull up tight against the engine. There was about .007" gap between the bracket and the engine. I hadn't checked whether that was the case before I started disassembly of the rear suspension linkage. I decided it would be better not to have a gap, so I made shims from a couple of thicknesses of soup can to fill the gap. Good luck with finishing the job, Jacobus! Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:02:03 -0500 Tengai Mark Van Horn writes:

> Last week, I removed an engine from a '90 Tengai. I got the swingarm > > bolts, which were severely seized and corroded, out VERY easily with > > an air impact hammer operating at 90psi. I used the pointed tip > for, > drilled a pilot dimple in the end of the bolt to hold the hammer > tip, > leaned into it and zzzzap, zap, zap, the bolts came right out. > > Mark

<><><><><><><><><><><><><>www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[John thomas]

HUH? Thomas Forest Park Ga. "Old Geezer club member 39.6" 90 Tengai 20,451 miles 78 CB400A 7,839 ----- Original Message ---- From: redred321 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 11:22:42 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Speedometer Repairs Last year, I twisted the speedometer cable into on my 1999 KLR. Itis an easy fix. Your can buy a universal cable at any auto parts house. The square pressed speedometer end matches the KLR speedometer. Heat the old bottom end and pull it off. Clean it out and J-B Weld it to the new cable. The only tricky part is making the new cable the correct length. In my case, my cable came into and I had to make the new cable to fit the cable housing. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/sports;_ylt=At9_qDKvtAbMuh1G1SQtBI7ntAcJ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]