Wilsons Sandbox

> > How many of you out hear have had to re-do your head and piston? > What is a good "ballpark" figure I would be looking at getting the > head re-done, honning the can and new piston w/rings? > Also, which gaskets do I need to replace doing this? > I checked with Fred and he wanted 89 bucks for the top end gasket set! > Do I need that set to do this? > How many gaskets come in that set? > And are they laced with gold? > If this ends up to be over 500 buck, I think I will look for another > engine for now and work on this over time. > Can anyone give me an idea on $? > Near Portland Oregon > Thanks > > Goeff

> > I'm currently running a 703.5 kit with the big valve head. More $$$, > more power. The full on big valve stage 2 head is about $600 and worth > every penny. > > The forged piston kit is lighter than stock and the engine is smoother. > > No commission, just a very happy customer. > > All the best, > > Mike > Eagle Mfg since 1990 > > >

> > Geoff, > It depends on what the head needs. If you are going with just the > standard refresh valves and guides if needed, cleanup of seats, new > stem seals, I'd guess around $200. For the piston and cylinder, I'd go > with the 685 if you have a 1996 or later. Around $300, including > boring, forged piston, wrings, wrist pin, etc. These prices are for > work done by Cary at Schnitz racing. The prices are also just an > approximation. I would not send work anywhere else, though. There > might be places that can do work like this, but I don't know of any. > > Your cam cover gasket is probably still good. You'd need a new head > gasket, and I think the price above includes one, but maybe not. > They're about $30 maybe $35. For the 685 they can trim it to fit the > larger bore. > > I'm currently running a 703.5 kit with the big valve head. More $$$, > more power. The full on big valve stage 2 head is about $600 and worth > every penny. > > The forged piston kit is lighter than stock and the engine is smoother. > > No commission, just a very happy customer. > > All the best, > > Mike > Eagle Mfg since 1990 >

> > Mike, thanks for the price break down and yes I understand that there > not balls on acurate, a ballpark is what I was looking for. You > touched on another question I thought of... > You said refresh valves...Not sure, my valves keep tighting up(IN > only)so not sure what to think. Are the valves going to be good when > this happens, or do I need all new IN valves? Without seeing my head I > understand you don't know, I'm just trying to see what get's done in a > valve job. I'm imagineing my valves getting sucked into the head and > mushrooming the face to where it can not be re-ground and re-used, but > it's been a number of years since I was in Auto Shop. I will check > with my mechanic on where he has sent his stuff around here and get > prices, in the mean time, it will still run with 2.0mm shims in the IN > side(thanks Fred), so I think I will ride the 4th. with friends, but I > think it won't be long...$$$$$$$ > > GM

> > The price I gave you includes new valves. The heads they rebuilt for > me and some local guys I helped out all needed new valves, and I think > new guides. > > I'd guess at this point there is something weird (not good) going on > with you needing shims that small. Time to work it over. > > It took about 6 hours, including lunch, to change out the cylinder, > piston, and head. Some of that was fighting the new and much stronger > wrist pin circlip. > > all the best, > > Mike >

> > Someone posted the engine colours for the various years.

> > My A18 is silver/grey and I just bought some parts which are black.

> > Can anyone repost that list of engine colours by year? > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >