nklr650 - some don't need not stinkin' guns . . .

[si02x]

I'm putting some additions on my bike - voltmeter, clock, gps, etc and I'm looking for a little help. Where is a good spot on the wireing harness to tap in to a switched and unswitched circut? Is there a web page out there with some info or a book i could read for some help. tia -40F spawned_out Fairbanks AK

[Michael Betcher]

Mine had two uncapped wires, hot and ground, behind the gauge cluster in the area of the front turn signal wires. Somebody said that these were for Euro-spec running lights or something, but anyway they are on a switched circuit available for any use you put them to. I used them to power a relay fixed behind the headlight panel, and used that relay to power heated grips. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Gary Hooker]

Click on the Electrical link at: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Wiring diagram is available there, along with info on using the city lights wiring for powering accessories. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 23 Feb 2007 02:02:11 -0000 "si02x" writes:

> I'm putting some additions on my bike - voltmeter, clock, gps, etc > and > I'm looking for a little help. Where is a good spot on the wireing > harness to tap in to a switched and unswitched circut? Is there a > web > page out there with some info or a book i could read for some help. > > > tia > -40F > spawned_out > Fairbanks AK

<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> akjtr, Michael had a good suggestion of using the city lights circuit with wires already in place behind the fairing near the right front turnsignal wires. I'd like to suggest you go just a little bit further for a trouble free system. Use the city lights wiring to control a relay for the keyed power. Feed the full time power you'd like from the power wire to the relay. To make this happen you'd need a new fused power wire run from the positive side of the battery. I suggest connecting it to the battery side of the starter solenoid located behind the black cover above the left footpeg. Connect the new fused power wire to terminal 30 on a relay and also pigtail off that connection with another lead that will be an always hot lead which I suppose is what you'd need for a clock. Connect the two city lights wires to terminals 85 & 86 of the relay. They are keyed power and will turn the relay on and off. The wire connected to terminal 87 on the relay will then have excellent power when the key is in the on or park position. That's the wire you'd probably want for a volt meter, heated grips or clothing etc. I suggest you run a GPS from the always hot wiring. That way when you stop for a break like fuel or lunch or to help fix a buddy's flat tire your GPS stays powered and you don't have to push any buttons. This wire would also be good for an easy to use battery charger connection. I've been using this arrangement for three years and it works well. I'll post a picture of a wiring diagram for a relay on the group photo section. It'll probably be in an album called Electrical. It's the same one I posted about a year ago when folks were asking similar questions. I think there is also a pretty good file about relays in the group files section but haven't looked for or at it in a year. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Kerry Stottlemyer]

That's all well and good And more power to them that was a kick ass thing to do. But you can't karate chop a bullet ;p Kerry

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, geobas wrote: > > SAN JOSE, Costa Rica > http://search.breitbart.com/q?s=%22Costa+Rica%22&sid=breitbart.com> > (AP) -- A tour bus of U.S. senior citizens defended themselves against a > group of alleged muggers, sending two of them fleeing and killing a > third in the Atlantic coast city of Limon > http://search.breitbart.com/q?s=limon&sid=breitbart.com>, police said > on Thursday. > > One of the tourists _ a retired member of the U.S. military aged about > 70 _ put assailant Warner Segura in a head lock and broke his clavicle > after the 20-year-old and two other men armed with a knife and gun held > up their tour bus Wednesday, said Luis Hernandez > http://search.breitbart.com/q?s=%22Luis+Hernandez%22&sid=breitbart.com>, > the police chief of Limon, 80 miles east of San Jose > http://search.breitbart.com/q?s=%22San+Jose%22&sid=breitbart.com>. > > The two other men fled when the 12 senior citizens started defending > themselves. The tourists then drove Segura to the Red Cross > http://search.breitbart.com/q?s=%22Red+Cross%22&sid=breitbart.com> > where the man was declared dead. The Red Cross also treated one of the > tourists for an anxiety attack, Hernandez said. > > The tourists left on their Carnival cruise after the incident and > Hernandez said authorities do not plan to press any charges against > them, saying they acted in self defense. > > "They were in their right to defend themselves after being held up," > Hernandez said. > > George > Escondido, CA > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Norm Keller]

The first question I have about the voltmeter is: "What voltage are you planning to monitor?" I know that this seems obvious but the KLR's wiring and switches are quite light so there is significant voltage drop between the battery and the high beam or low beam terminals on the headlight socket. The voltage drop will subtract from the battery/charging system voltage so the voltage to the headlight and other loads will be lower than the voltage at the battery positive. If you connect your dash voltmeter to the battery,the voltage it displays will be higher than the accessory loads but will reflect that being applied to the battery as well as the battery voltage when engine off, key on. This may be the information you wish to read. On the other hand, if you connect the voltmeter to the city light wires (or other off the ignition switch), the meter will read the voltage at that point which will be, as I said less than the battery voltage by the amount of the voltage drop in the wiring and ignition switch. I recommend that you rewire to use a relay for accessory loads to be installed and those you wish to add later. This relay can be switched from the city light wires so that it operates when the ignition is switched on and can feed your dash lights. voltmeter, and other stuff such as GPS power, bar heaters and what ever you decide to add. The power for the accessory relay can most easily come (through a fuse) from the battery cable side of the starter relay because it is easier to connect there and also this avoids possible corrosion at the battery plus the nuisance of having to deal with disconnecting when the battery is removed for service. While you are into the wiring, I recommend that you also add relays for high beam and low beam to remove the voltage drop in the headlight wiring, ignition switch and dimmer switch. It is easy enough to mount the relays and fuses behind the right hand "radiator" shroud. At this point you might also wish to replace the stick three glass fuse holders with modern sealed ATO holders. If you need help, email directly & we can walk through specifics. HIH Norm

>I'm putting some additions on my bike - >voltmeter, clock, gps, etc and

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