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klr650 tools and maintenance
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 12:57 pm
by Robin Van Eyk
I am looking at buying some tools to repair and maintain my KLR, but I was wondering if I
should just buy specific tools, rather than buying a whole set. What would be a good tool set
for the KLR650? I figure I could just go to Sears and get what I need instead of buying a
complete set and only using a few of the tools. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,
Robin A15
klr650 tools and maintenance
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 1:41 pm
by Jim Priest
On 10/8/06, Robin Van Eyk wrote:
> I am looking at buying some tools to repair and maintain my KLR, but I was wondering if
> should just buy specific tools, rather than buying a whole set. What would be a good to
You don't need the 2 trillion piece set
I'd say a small set of 1/4 and 3/8" sockets, some good screwdrivers,
pliers and a few odds and ends (feeler gauges, etc) and you should be
good at least to do basic maintenance.
I have a good set of sockets and I think it goes from 4-5mm up to
maybe 19mm. Both short and deep sockets. There are a few things like
the axle nuts where I've bought individual sockets...
I have the Sears bike lift which you can find on sale for less than
$100, and I bought a little tool cabinet which I can roll around in
the garage when I'm working on the bike to hold everything - manuals,
tools, paperwork, etc all are in the cabinet - I got that on sale at
Sears for less than $100 as well. Makes working on the bike much
easier.
Jim
klr650 tools and maintenance
Posted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 8:06 pm
by Blake Sobiloff
On 10/8/06, Robin Van Eyk wrote:
> I am looking at buying some tools to repair and maintain my KLR, but I was wondering if I
> should just buy specific tools, rather than buying a whole set.
Jim gave some good recommendations. I'd add that you *must* have a
1/4" drive torque wrench in order to do a valve job. This will
probably be the single most expensive tool you'll have to buy.
I find that I don't really need any 3/8" drive tools for working on
the KLR; a good selection of 1/4" drive tools, along with a good
selection of socket extension bars, seems to cover everything outside
of the axles and drive train (those use 1/2" sockets and a breaker
bar).
You'll also want a good set of allen/hex keys, plenty of blue loctite,
and I prefer to wear nitrile gloves while working. Oh, and some
silicone/dielectric grease for any electrical connector you work on,
and a good waterproof grease for your swingarm pivot, your speedo
gear, axles, etc.
--
Blake Sobiloff
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/>
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/>
San Jose, CA (USA)
carburetor jetting- correction
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:08 am
by Norm Keller
It's now 2:30 AM and my brain has been processing during sleep. I just awoke to because my post on carburetor jetting had some incorrect information. That ever happen to you? (VBG)
The section relating to the slide spring was the reverse to what actually happens. It should have read:
Another aspect of CV carburetor operation which seems to have been ignored is the contribution of the CV plunger spring. Many tuners ignore the spring except to consider that too light a spring will allow a lean bog to occur since the slide opens too quickly to allow gasoline flow to keep pace.
Another factor to consider is that a lighter spring will allow the CV slide to be opened more by the same air flow rate. The slide is opened be vacuum operating against the slide spring. Vacuum in the diaphragm chamber is (quite) proportional to air flow through the venturi so the effect of greater air flow is to open the slide further. This is the "constant velocity" aspect of these carburetors' operation. Air flow speed through the venturi, above idle, is almost the same regardless of engine load/throttle opening so long as the spring rate is the same.
If it is considered that a given air flow rate will apply a vacuum to the slide diaphragm such that the slide will rise a certain amount, reducing the spring's strength will allow the slide to rise further. Since the venturi size is not larger, and air flow volume has not increased, the velocity of air flow will be less than with a stronger spring. Conversely, increasing the spring's strength will require a higher air flow speed through the venturi at a given air flow volume. A lower air flow rate will cause a lower pressure differential in the venturi so less fuel will be delivered providing a leaner mixture. A stronger spring will cause a smaller slide opening making higher air flow rate and so more fuel delivery for the volume of air entering.
It has been some time since I was doing this work so some things do not come directly to mind.
Obviously, too strong a spring will prevent the slide from opening completely. Too weak a spring will result in too slow an air flow rate to produce enough of a pressure differential for fuel delivery to occur. That's what woke me.
To sleep, perchance to dream. Ah, but there's the rub! What dreams....
Willy, you penned some weird stuff!
Norm
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