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fork springs
Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2001 12:18 pm
by Arden Kysely
This fork spring debate got me curious, so I asked the pros as
Progressive Suspension about their take on the issue. Here's their
response:
"Well both sides are correct. When you tie down a bike the springs
compress and anytime you compress a spring you increase stress.
Increasing the stress can cause a spring to take a "set". However, if
you have a good spring design with good quality material it will not
affect the springs for a lifetime of use. We have seen some OE
springs take a "set" but ours will not."
I've done a lot of bike trucking and haven't noticed spring damage,
but I don't bottom the forks, either. I cinch 'em down to where
there's enough resistance to keep the front end reasonably secure,
then tie the back end in, since I haven't owned a long bed truck in
25 years. Went down some pretty rough roads in my desert racing days,
but haven't lost a bike yet!
Arden Kysely
A11 "Mr. K"
fork springs
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2001 6:30 pm
by John Irvine
I'm swapping to progressive springs and read one post
that said 2" is what is needed for the spacer, the
stock seems about 4" Any other thoughts, I weigh
about 170. Oil suggestions?
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fork springs
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2001 9:53 pm
by monahanwb@yahoo.com
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., John Irvine wrote:
> I'm swapping to progressive springs and read one post
> that said 2" is what is needed for the spacer, the
> stock seems about 4" Any other thoughts, I weigh
> about 170. Oil suggestions?
If you're swapping to the regular progressive springs (not the Larry
Roeslers) then the spacer should end up being about a 1/2" to an inch
shorter than the stock metal spacer. You can cut these spacers or
make new ones using 1" pvc water piping and a tubing cutter. This
will allow you to get the fork caps back on and will provide a
correct degree of preload for the springs to work.
Oil could be 10w or 15w. You'll see when you drain the forks that
just having any clean oil in there is better than what you've been
using.
fork springs
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2001 11:45 pm
by EstopG@netscape.net
My Progressive springs came with complete instructions,including
spacer length and oil weights.
I'm 170 lbs.. I went with the recommended 10 wt. oil, and I believe I
cut 1 of the stock spacers in half and used a half section in each
fork. That came to 2" or 2 1/4".
I'm very satisfied with the results.
I then put in Galfer Green brake pads, and braided brake lines, now
I'm satisfied with the brakes.
I think the Galfer Greens made more of a difference than the braided
lines.
Gary in Michigan
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--- In DSN_klr650@y..., John Irvine wrote:
> I'm swapping to progressive springs and read one post
> that said 2" is what is needed for the spacer, the
> stock seems about 4" Any other thoughts, I weigh
> about 170. Oil suggestions?
fork springs
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2001 2:55 am
by Devon Jarvis
John,
The progressive springs do call for 2" spacers. They also call for the
fork oil to be set to 190mm from the top of the tubes, springs out and fully
compressed. It depends on what you weigh, and how you ride. The specs are
pretty good to start for a 150lb rider. If you are a lot bigger, carry a lot
of luggage often etc. you might think about 2.5" spacers, raising the oil to
180mm, and/or 15w fork oil. I use PJ on my SR500s and Belray on the KLR, it's
just what the shops had in stock the day I did the work.
I was bottoming a lot in rocks and whoops, with the stock oil at the stock
height (210mm) and progressive springs with 2" spacers. The stock 10w oil was
truly beat by 4330mi, I replaced it with fresh 10w and raised the level to
190mm. This makes the fork a little more "progressive", the higher the oil
level the more spring effect you get from the air being compressed inside the
fork. Be very careful adding oil, I don't know what the maximum level is and
if you overfill you'll blow your fork seals.
I stuck with 10w and the 2" spacers because the road manners are good, I don't
get pounded by potholes much at all. I'll try and add oil for bottoming
resistance before I go to thicker oil and more preload.
I'm off-roading again this Sunday, I'll see how the settings work.
Devon
John Irvine wrote:
fork springs
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2001 8:56 am
by Devon Jarvis
Right. I'm using the 2".
The 2" spacers don't give much preload at all, you can push down and
screw in the fork caps easily with one hand. BTW you should use one hand
to start the fork caps in their threads, and not use tools until the
o-ring hits, someone on the list cross-threaded their fork cap and ended
up taking the fork tube to a machinist for repair.
Devon
John Irvine wrote:
> Thanks, I'll experiment with it a bit. You used the
> 2" spacers right?
>
> --- Devon Jarvis wrote:
> > John,
> >
> > The progressive springs do call for 2" spacers.
> > They also call for the
> > fork oil to be set to 190mm from the top of the
> > tubes, springs out and fully
> > compressed. It depends on what you weigh, and how
> > you ride. The specs are
> > pretty good to start for a 150lb rider. If you are a
> > lot bigger, carry a lot
> > of luggage often etc. you might think about 2.5"
> > spacers, raising the oil to
> > 180mm, and/or 15w fork oil. I use PJ on my SR500s
> > and Belray on the KLR, it's
> > just what the shops had in stock the day I did the
> > work.
> >
> > I was bottoming a lot in rocks and whoops, with the
> > stock oil at the stock
> > height (210mm) and progressive springs with 2"
> > spacers. The stock 10w oil was
> > truly beat by 4330mi, I replaced it with fresh 10w
> > and raised the level to
> > 190mm. This makes the fork a little more
> > "progressive", the higher the oil
> > level the more spring effect you get from the air
> > being compressed inside the
> > fork. Be very careful adding oil, I don't know what
> > the maximum level is and
> > if you overfill you'll blow your fork seals.
> >
> > I stuck with 10w and the 2" spacers because the road
> > manners are good, I don't
> > get pounded by potholes much at all. I'll try and
> > add oil for bottoming
> > resistance before I go to thicker oil and more
> > preload.
> >
> > I'm off-roading again this Sunday, I'll see how the
> > settings work.
> >
> > Devon
> >
> > John Irvine wrote:
> >
> > > I'm swapping to progressive springs and read one
> > post
> > > that said 2" is what is needed for the spacer, the
> > > stock seems about 4" Any other thoughts, I weigh
> > > about 170. Oil suggestions?
> > >
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fork springs
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2001 1:52 pm
by Riley Harlton
John Irvine wrote:
> I'm swapping to progressive springs and read one post
> that said 2" is what is needed for the spacer, the
> stock seems about 4" Any other thoughts, I weigh
> about 170. Oil suggestions?
You have to cut them for sure. The springs are longer. I cut to the length
recommended which was around 2 inches. Can't remember. I'm using 15 wt oil
and it seems fine. I'm 205 lbs though.
Riley
Montreal
A15
fork springs
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2001 5:36 pm
by david.smith@semflex.com
I have been following this thread quite closely. I just bought a 2000
KLR recently. I am about 230lbs. and when I hit the brakes hard the
front end dives under me. I have several questions.
1. Would changing the oil to 15wt fix this and if so is it easy and
well documentated some where.
2. What are the shrader valves for on top of the forks. Can you add
more air pressure to help alleviate the above problem.
3. These progressive springs that everyone keeps talking about are
they hard to install and is this documentated some where also.
Thanks for the help
David
Mesa AZ
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Riley Harlton wrote:
> John Irvine wrote:
>
> > I'm swapping to progressive springs and read one post
> > that said 2" is what is needed for the spacer, the
> > stock seems about 4" Any other thoughts, I weigh
> > about 170. Oil suggestions?
>
> You have to cut them for sure. The springs are longer. I cut to
the length
> recommended which was around 2 inches. Can't remember. I'm using
15 wt oil
> and it seems fine. I'm 205 lbs though.
>
> Riley
> Montreal
> A15
fork springs
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2001 6:52 pm
by RichardM
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., david.smith@s... wrote:
>1. Would changing the oil to 15wt fix this and if so is it easy and
>well documentated some where.
15 weight oil will stop the fork from being quite so flabby. It
won't do a thing to correct the heavy dive under braking.
RM
fork springs
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2001 4:27 pm
by Rev.Chuck
Howdy David, so your no longer a lurker!
The dive that the KLR gives us when punching the front brake is known world 'round. Dive! dive! dive! just like the PA system on a sub!
Now, to get to the meat of your question:
Will the Progressive's help here? Yes, without doubt. Changing the oil to a heavier weight help? Yes, but to a lesser effect.
Will adding air pressure to the forks help? Not a good idea, I use the valves only to normalize the ambient and contained pressures, I have had the fork air pressure normalized at sea level and travel up to the summit (7,000 ft) only to have the valve blow out half the oil when opened... Already too much pressure on these oil seals, if I had added, say 10 PSI, at sea level I would lost the seals for sure.
Simply put, I would not reccommend adding fork pressure to a friend.
The progressives are easy to install, the hard part is getting this list to agree on the variables, like oil weight, space length, oil volume...
Personally I hated the dive, even though it was expected, I added the Progressives, stock spacer and OEM level of 15 weight. No problems two-up riding (310 lbs not counting luggage). Overloaded to be sure.
--- david.smith@...
> wrote:
>I have been following this thread quite closely. I just bought a 2000
>KLR recently. I am about 230lbs. and when I hit the brakes hard the
>front end dives under me. I have several questions.
>1. Would changing the oil to 15wt fix this and if so is it easy and
>well documentated some where.
>
>2. What are the shrader valves for on top of the forks. Can you add
>more air pressure to help alleviate the above problem.
>
>3. These progressive springs that everyone keeps talking about are
>they hard to install and is this documentated some where also.
==
Rev. Chuck
:^)>+
A13
Antelope, California
http://KLR650.50Megs.Com/
Or
http://DualSports.OnWeb.CX/
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