--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "deadtvs" wrote:
>
> How come the Karoos never get many votes?
The Karoos may work ok when new, but expect about 2000 miles or less out of
the rear. That
works out to three to five times $60 compared to $35 one time. Plus
mounting, your time or
your money, take your choice. Like all Metzelers, overpriced and overrated.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:31:23 -0000
From: "streetman44"
Subject: 650 KLR Reliability
Hello all,
I am new here and have been over a few questions and comments...looks
like alot of people know what they are talking about here! I am
thinking of getting a 06' 650 KLR and wanted to know if anyone dislikes
the bike that they would not recommend it. What about tire wear issues
on the road...I want to ride it to work and back and with the option of
taking it down the occasional dirt road. I appreciate any help you
experts have...thanks alot!!
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:31:44 -0600
From: "Fred Hink"
Subject: Fw: To lower or not to lower
----- Original Message -----
From: "rick"
To: DSN_KLR650-owner@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: To lower or not to lower
Pretty funny, changing the ride characteristics. I don't think so.
When you lower the front and rear, as I have done on my wife's bike
and mine, the characteristics are the same. Did I lose ground
clearance, absolutely. Are the wife and I still going to have fun on
our 5 week trip to Canada this coming July and our 12 week trip from
Mexico to Panama Canal and back starting in December, absolutely. When
I get back from both I'll let you know how bad our trip was because of
the characteristics while you guys debate this on the discussion group.
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "J Fortner" wrote:
>
> On 4/13/06, 4_stroke@... wrote:
> >
> > Just got a klr 650...with a Givi box on the back. At first it
seemed too
> > high and standing on the ground I could BARELY get on it. Now I
stand on
> > the left peg and vault over it. Is this acceptable form?
>
>
> Yes
>
> Is the peg going to collapse.
>
>
> No
>
> Can I get some advice from other 30" leg riders?
>
>
> I also have a 30" inseam. I would strongly suggest against lowering
the KLR
> as it changes the ride charactersitics and makes the KLR underside more
> likely to be damaged by terrain. With the suspension sag set
correctly on my
> A7 it is managable.
>
> Jim
> Texas
> A7
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 14:46:05 -0500
From: "J Fortner"
Subject: Re: Fw: To lower or not to lower
On 4/14/06, Fred Hink wrote:
>
>
>
> Pretty funny, changing the ride characteristics. I don't think so.
> When you lower the front and rear, as I have done on my wife's bike
> and mine, the characteristics are the same.
Have a good one...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 14:08:46 -0700
From: "PATRICK J. CASSELS"
Subject: Re: 650 KLR Reliability
Be very aware of the imatation KLR's.....If you look very hard there is a
simalarity..........They are Green
Just buy it and enjoy it
Pat
A19
Chick Magnet Red
----- Original Message -----
From: "streetman44"
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 12:31 PM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] 650 KLR Reliability
> Hello all,
>
> I am new here and have been over a few questions and comments...looks
> like alot of people know what they are talking about here! I am
> thinking of getting a 06' 650 KLR and wanted to know if anyone dislikes
> the bike that they would not recommend it. What about tire wear issues
> on the road...I want to ride it to work and back and with the option of
> taking it down the occasional dirt road. I appreciate any help you
> experts have...thanks alot!!
>
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> Archive Quicksearch at:
>
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html
> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at:
www.dualsportnews.com
> List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at:
www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
> Member Map at:
http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:11:17 -0400
From: "James Morrow Sr"
Subject: Re: 650 KLR Reliability
Your use would highly recommend the KLR. Good gas mileage, range, perfect
for on road commuting and off road fun.
Easy to work on, and as bullet proof as they get for the price, size.
for occasional dirt roads you can get an 80/20 tire which will work real
well on the road. I run 20/80 and still stick with the sport bike boys when
I have to.
On 4/14/06, streetman44 wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I am new here and have been over a few questions and comments...looks
> like alot of people know what they are talking about here! I am
> thinking of getting a 06' 650 KLR and wanted to know if anyone dislikes
> the bike that they would not recommend it. What about tire wear issues
> on the road...I want to ride it to work and back and with the option of
> taking it down the occasional dirt road. I appreciate any help you
> experts have...thanks alot!!
>
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> Archive Quicksearch at:
>
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html
> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at:
www.dualsportnews.com
> List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at:
www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
> Member Map at:
http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
James Morrow Sr
Union, MO
'00' RT + dual plug + Bunkhouse
'00' BUSA + 15hp
'05' KLR650 + big fun factor
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:24:10 -0000
From: "Dooden"
Subject: Re: 650 KLR Reliability
Ya but give the ole Sun a couple years and you will be riding a "pink"
bike.
Dooden
A15 "Green" Ape
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "PATRICK J. CASSELS"
wrote:
>
> Be very aware of the imatation KLR's.....If you look very hard there
is a
> simalarity..........They are Green
>
> Just buy it and enjoy it
>
> Pat
> A19
> Chick Magnet Red
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "streetman44"
> To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 12:31 PM
> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] 650 KLR Reliability
>
>
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I am new here and have been over a few questions and comments...looks
> > like alot of people know what they are talking about here! I am
> > thinking of getting a 06' 650 KLR and wanted to know if anyone
dislikes
> > the bike that they would not recommend it. What about tire wear issues
> > on the road...I want to ride it to work and back and with the
option of
> > taking it down the occasional dirt road. I appreciate any help you
> > experts have...thanks alot!!
> >
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Archive Quicksearch at:
> >
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html
> > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at:
www.dualsportnews.com
> > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at:
www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
> > Member Map at:
http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:25:26 -0000
From: "ezdc66"
Subject: Front sprocket change ?
Hi guys:
I just had my '06 in for 500m maintenance and was talking to the
mechanic about street vs. off road riding.
He said I could change the front sprocket if I do the majority of my
riding on the road I guess effectively gearing the bike a bit lower ?
Has anyone ever done this and if so what were the results ?
What are the advantages/ drawbacks if any ?
All thooughts are appreciated.
Thanks,
Sean
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:01:42 -0500
From: "Don Pendergraft"
Subject: Question about the stock KLR tires...
I would really like to go with a great 50/50 tire, but honestly, after the 3
miles of dirt from my house to the highway, most of my miles will be on the
road. So, am I better of with an 80/20? That is what my brain tells me even
though my heart says 50/50 (fantasies of motocross I guess). Does the 80
mean 80% street? Also, what ratio is the stock tire? What is your opinion of
the stock tires? If it's an 80/20, am I good to go? I have read some great
tire recommendations, but I'm not sure what the ratio is for let's say the
Continental TKC80's. I hope to be buying a KLR within a few weeks. Thank you
all.
Don Pendergraft
Kansas, OK
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:48:14 -0000
From: "Dooden"
Subject: Re: Front sprocket change ?
Basically remove the OEM front sprocket and install a 14T, readjust
chain and poof all done, Seem to reach for 6th gear alot, but makes
1st gear usable in the heavy stuff, and 2nd gear ridable at slow speed.
Of course maybe your milage might drop reckon that all being
subjective to how you ride.
Dooden
A15 Green Ape
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "ezdc66" wrote:
>
> Hi guys:
>
> I just had my '06 in for 500m maintenance and was talking to the
> mechanic about street vs. off road riding.
> He said I could change the front sprocket if I do the majority of my
> riding on the road I guess effectively gearing the bike a bit lower ?
> Has anyone ever done this and if so what were the results ?
> What are the advantages/ drawbacks if any ?
> All thooughts are appreciated.
> Thanks,
>
> Sean
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:55:04 -0000
From: "Marshall"
Subject: Re: Question about the stock KLR tires...
I had the Metzler Sahara 3 on my DR650 and I'm convinced that they
are the best 50/50 tire around. They had good grip on the road (peg
dragging grip), and they hooked up well in the dirt. I got 4,000
miles out of the rear and 6,00 miles from the front. If you think
the 80 street /20 dirt is more your style the Avon Gripster is a
great choice. I have Michelin T-66's on my KLR now, and they suck
in the dirt.
Marshall
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Don Pendergraft"
wrote:
>
> I would really like to go with a great 50/50 tire, but honestly,
after the 3
> miles of dirt from my house to the highway, most of my miles will
be on the
> road. So, am I better of with an 80/20? That is what my brain
tells me even
> though my heart says 50/50 (fantasies of motocross I guess). Does
the 80
> mean 80% street? Also, what ratio is the stock tire? What is your
opinion of
> the stock tires? If it's an 80/20, am I good to go? I have read
some great
> tire recommendations, but I'm not sure what the ratio is for let's
say the
> Continental TKC80's. I hope to be buying a KLR within a few weeks.
Thank you
> all.
>
> Don Pendergraft
> Kansas, OK
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 23:16:29 -0000
From: "Randy Shultz"
Subject: WTB shortened sidestand
Anybody have a shortened sidestand that they no longer need and might
want to sell, please drop me a line offline.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 00:40:22 -0000
From: "luke"
Subject: doohickey help ...
did the replacement a year ago ,,
keep doing the outside chain adjuster ,,, doesn,t sound like it is
adjust for a smoother chain ride ... ?????
so i,m gonna take offf first cove r ,,, is there anything there i
should be able to seee ,,,, or can i do & see the adjustment at this
point ???
thanks in advance ,,,
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:56:36 -0700
From: Blake Sobiloff
Subject: Re: doohickey help ...
On Apr 14, 2006, at 5:40 PM, luke wrote:
> keep doing the outside chain adjuster ,,, doesn,t sound like it is
> adjust for a smoother chain ride ... ?????
The sound of the chain adjusting, if it needs to, is very subtle. In
fact, I've never heard my chain adjust, but that may just be me and
my bike.
> so i,m gonna take offf first cove r ,,, is there anything there i
> should be able to seee ,,,, or can i do & see the adjustment at this
> point ???
The spring should still be stretched a bit, e.g., applying tension to
the doohickey. The doohickey should turn freely on the shaft. If it
passes both those tests you should be good (but, of course, I'll
defer to Eagle Mike and the other experts who've seen more doohickeys
than a whore has seen things I can't talk about on a list with a
Reverend on it.
Happy Easter y'all!
--
Blake Sobiloff
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/>
San Jose, CA (USA)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 01:00:20 -0000
From: "Pat"
Subject: Re: Front sprocket change ?
Although design engineers ought-a be the experts on these things, all
final products are compromises. For my riding style & places I go,
experience leads me to believe that the engine actually works less
with the 14-tooth. Heck if you dyno'ed it or had a panel like a recip
airplane with a MAP guage, it might prove the point - less
lugging/overboost.
At 220# I'm no lightweight, yet I consistently get 50-54mpg in mixed
backroad, city and 65-70MPH freeway riding (70mph indicated =
5,000rpm). On a group ride with other KLR's with OEM front sprockets,
I get AT LEAST as good, often better MPG. Above all, the 14 gear does
make the lovable green beast much more sure-footed in rough stuff. I
too have lost count of the times I've tried for 6th gear on the
highway tho' - I'm livin' with it. The 15-tooth is in the toolbox in
case I take a slab trip somewhere beyond 2 tanks of gas.
A cheap, easy bit to try to satisfy yerself! Good luck!
Pat M
Pac-NW
A14
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote:
>
> Basically remove the OEM front sprocket and install a 14T, readjust
> chain and poof all done, Seem to reach for 6th gear alot, but makes
> 1st gear usable in the heavy stuff, and 2nd gear ridable at slow speed.
>
> Of course maybe your milage might drop reckon that all being
> subjective to how you ride.
>
> Dooden
> A15 Green Ape
>
>
>
> --- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "ezdc66" wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys:
> >
> > I just had my '06 in for 500m maintenance and was talking to the
> > mechanic about street vs. off road riding.
> > He said I could change the front sprocket if I do the majority of my
> > riding on the road I guess effectively gearing the bike a bit lower ?
> > Has anyone ever done this and if so what were the results ?
> > What are the advantages/ drawbacks if any ?
> > All thooughts are appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Sean
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 01:08:16 -0000
From: "colacacher509"
Subject: Stock Kick stand
I cut 11/2 in off my kick stand i lowered my KLR now i want to put it
back and need a stock kick stand do you have one for sale.
colacacher@...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 18:22:49 -0700
From: "John Biccum"
Subject: RE: Break-in and Synthetic
This is hardly a scientific sample but here is my experience:
My A16 had 2002 miles on it when I bought it, it was seven months old but
spent 4 months of that time in a garage under a cover. The previous owner
swore that he broke it in exactly like the manual, gently, not going over
the indicated RPM as described by the breakin sticker. Ever since I got it
the bike has always used a little bit of oil (less than 6 oz per 3,000
miles).
Then I cracked a piston and put in a new top end. The new top end was
broken is as advised by Schnitz Racing, the people who did my machine work.
They advised a break in period *much* different that Kawasaki, and I
followed it to the letter:
Engine was assembled using 10W-30 except the piston and rings which were
assembled *dry*. Upon first startup idled bike for about 15 minutes to get
it up to temp. Surprisingly, no smoke was noted upon startup so the rings
seem to be nearly seated by the time the bike fired to life. Once warm, run
2/3 of max power roll ons followed by closing the throttle 100% and letting
the engine brake the bike's speed. RPMs from 1300-5500.
Oil change at 30 miles. Oil was dark, magnetic drain plug had ferrous
"fuzz" on it, about what I would expect to see at a normal 2,500 mile oil
change. Switched to 10W-40. Run 200 miles of mixed highway driving, RPM from
1300 to 6500. Lots of 2/3 max roll ons, lots of fully-closed throttle
engine braking from speed. Some WFO roll-ons later in the 200 miles. This
was Hoologan riding, I had to go a long way from my neighborhood so none of
my teenagers witnessed me riding like a teenager
Oil change at 200 miles (230 from new top end). Oil was clean, same color
as new oil, zero ferrous "fuzz" noted on the magnetic drain plug. Switch
back to 5W-50 Rotella-T synthetic, then ride normally.
The bike has not used *any* measureable amount of oil in 3,500 miles. The
lack of "Fuzz" at the 200 mile interval suggests to me that the new rings
were fully broken in by that point. Lack of smoke on startup tells me that
the rings were mostly broken in by the time that the engine fired.
-----Original Message-----
From:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 3:44 PM
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Break-in and Synthetic
My bike is still new, but I was wondering how many miles are required before
switching to synthetic for this engine? Full break-in should be done by 500
miles (see below for my opinion of the factory specs), but I usually try to
get 1000-1500 miles on a bike engine before changing over.
I was also wondering about the break-in limits set by Kawasaki for this
engine. As an engine machinist, I consider it a joke, but I would like to
know how others feel. Modern engines are built with mych tighter machining
specs than older engines which required long break-in periods. This is why I
had to laugh when I read the 500 and 1000 mile limits which came with my
bike.
As an example of this, when I bought my Yamaha RX-1 snowmobile (essentially
an R-1 streetbike engine), I stuck to the factory break- in requirements to
the letter. But by the 500 mile mark I had used over 1 qt. of oil. By 2000
miles I was getting 300-400 miles to a qt., and by 4000 miles I was up to
100 miles/qt! Fortunately, due to keeping track of complaints to the dealer
and Yamaha, I finally received a brand new engine...on them. I strongly
believe that my "grandma" type of riding during the break-in period didn't
let the rings seat properly, resulting in the oil usage. (leakdown test
showed 25-35% leakdown across all 4 cylinders).
Are there others on here who disagree with the factory break-in specs, or am
I alone here?
Jim
Archive Quicksearch at:
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html
List sponsored by Dual Sport News at:
www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ
courtesy of Chris Krok at:
www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at:
http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 01:51:01 -0000
From: "Jim"
Subject: Do-It-Yourself Brake Lines
Has anyone on here plumbed up their own SS brake lines? Since I have
quite a bit of experience with automotive brake systems, especially SS
extended lines on lifted 4x4s, I was thinking about making up my own
lines. I have seen front line kits for $50+, but in comparison, I
should be able to make up my own for around $30-$35. $14 for a pair of
banjo fittings, and $15-$20 for the stainless line.
One question I have...does anyone know the diameter of the banjo bolts
on our brake systems? I could always pull one, which I should have done
before bleeding my brakes the other day, but I really don't feel like
bleeding them again.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:57:32 -0400
From: "Carlos Rigdon"
Subject: Re: Re: Front sprocket change ?
On 4/14/06, Dooden wrote:
> Basically remove the OEM front sprocket and install a 14T, readjust
> chain and poof all done, Seem to reach for 6th gear alot, but makes
> 1st gear usable in the heavy stuff, and 2nd gear ridable at slow speed.
>
> Of course maybe your milage might drop reckon that all being
> subjective to how you ride.
My mileage went up 57 last 3 tanks 52 -52 before. But lots of
backroads 45 50 mph stuff on them.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:38:55 EDT
From: jokerloco9@...
Subject: Re: Break-in and Synthetic
Interesting info. However, all the crud you describe finding at 30 mile
oil
change is pieces of your motor you just spent time rebuilding. It came
from
somewhere. It all came from the top end, as that is what you said you did.
I have built my share of 800 HP drag motors, and maybe I assemble motors
very clean, but I rarely get much of anything like that. When I bought my
06
KLR, I followed Kawi procedure, and added 1/2-3/4 accel and decel, somewhat
like what you did. At 2000 miles, I also do not have any oil loss. Same
thing
on my 2003 Harley. At 7000 miles, zero oil loss (not counting normal
contamination)
By the way, the no smoke on start-up was because you had assembled the
piston/cylinder dry. The smoke that is normally seen on start-up of a new
motor
is the extra oil still sitting in the cylinder from normal oily engine
assembly. Not because of something superior from the M/C shop procedure
you
followed.
When you started your motor, you basically ground the living crap out of
the
piston, cylinder, and rings until the oil splash started lubricating the
cylinder. Hence metal and fuzz you pulled out at 30 mile oil change.
I have to question the wisdom of doing this. All for the possibility of
lower oil consumption? Who cares, oil is cheap. Is there more power
available?
Has anyone done a leakdown compression test? This shop probably knows what
it is doing, and may specialize in race motors, that don't get a 500 mile
break-in. Or they may never see 500 miles, period. I have a drag motor
that has
seen over 700 1/4 mile 10 second passes. That is a very old drag motor.
Add up the mileage. My guess is 500-1000 miles on the motor driving around
the
track. Only thing done is oil changes. Oil consumption is negligable, and
very good for a 7000 rpm WOT at most times motor.
But how is the M/C shop quoted regarding 100,000 mile motors? As good as
this shop is, I guess I can't believe they know as much as Kawi, Honda,
Suzuki, Chrysler, GM, Ford, BMW, etc, etc. They all recommend a procedure
similar
to the KLR Kawi manual, and have been doing it for decades. Clearly some
other posters here get 50,000-80,000 miles by following Kawi procedure.
Those
that don't, likely don't because they did not do proper maintenance like
frequent oil changes.
My guess is the M/C shop is a race shop, that is concerned with getting a
motor to full power quickly, with little regard to 100,000 mile
requirements.
Would be interesting to see an engine teardown of your motor. It would be
interesting to see where all of your metal from the oil change came from.
Of
course I don't expect you are going to do that. Find someone with a
borescope and pull plug and look inside. I think you are in for a
surprise.
By the way, don' worry about it. If it runs good, just cruise it and
forget
it.
Jeff A20
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 04:02:05 -0000
From: "Eric and Amy"
Subject: Re: lost klr key..
Got the ignition back together in about 3 minutes. Everything works
great, although when i got to the locksmith, the price had changed to
$25, even though they had quoted $15 the day before on the phone. I
talked them into giving me a second key included.
Nice to be mobile again.
thanks again for your tips. neverda thunk it would be that easy.
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric and Amy"
wrote:
>
> Too bad i'm not a motorcycle thief...
> I removed the 2 bolts to take off the entire fairing in about 30
> seconds, removed the 2 screws on the plastic cover under the
cluster
> in about 15 seconds, then the 2 nuts holding on the guage cluster
in
> about 30 seconds. I looked at the "security" bolts, and noticed 2
> screws next to them, so i said hmmmm. and then spent a few seconds
> taking those off, and off popped my ignition... the top half.
>
> The bottom half with the electronic circuit board and bottom
housing
> is still there, held on by the security screws... but I don't need
to
> bring that part in to get the key made, only the lock itself.
> Total time: about 5 minutes and $15 bucks to get a fresh key.
>
> Now I know not to leave my bike where somebody can throw it in the
> back of a pickup truck and do the same thing.
>
> Thanks for the info and instructions. Looking forward to riding
> again soon.
> Eric.
> --- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric and Amy"
> wrote:
> >
> > how hard is it to remove the ignition... any how to guides out
> there?
> > i found a locksmith that can do it if i bring in the ignition for
> $15
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:22:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: tom smart
Subject: I bought a KLR today
I couldnt take it anymore. The suns out, gas is over $3 dollar a gallon and
I walked into the dealer and got him down a few hundred and finished my day
riding into the sunset with a new 2006 KLR650.
Tomorrow I will wake up and ask myself what have I done? But I am sure it
will pass and a smile wil appear as I fire it up and hit the road.
yesssssssssssssssssssss
Tom
Northern California
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:57:35 -0700
From: "John Biccum"
Subject: RE: Re: What tires would you recommend?
The TKC80s are my favorite dual sport tire by far. IMHO they are the
compromise tire that demands the least compromise. They seem to be great on
the street and great in the dirt.
I just read a couple of mails that said that they wear out fast, but that
has not been my experience. I get about 4500-5000 miles to a rear and about
9K to a front. I have 7422 on the front now and it still not close to worn
out, and that is with a big rotor on it.
-----Original Message-----
From:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of closetwestie
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 8:53 PM
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: What tires would you recommend?
So I put out the same question on our local NW group and put the Cont.
TKC80's on and drove into work today. I'm sold!!! Beats the hell out of the
gripsters that I had on it over the winter, while nice these feel
considerably more stable...even at speed. It will be a few weeks before I
can play in the dirt so cant report on that, but I'm sure they will perform
well there. They are steeper on price compared to some of the others, and as
mentioned before might have a short lifespan. So far I'd buy them again.
Don't think I'd replace them 4 times a year ($), but I was looking for a
tire to get me thru the to the cold rain this fall
and get me and my
daughter out camping this summer. Any way as you can tell I'm recommending
the TKC80's.
Good Luck,
Mike
A12
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
>
>
> Another Hot "Don't buy!" Is the King 967. While it
> does have incredible short conrnering ability at low
> speed (it's an 82-20) it wobbles at high speed, and is
> a constant wash in dirt and gravel. Scariest 5000
> miles I ever rode. I am running 606's right now, I am
> loving the dirt, but break neck stuff on the street,
> and they lock up at the slightest whim seeing as how
> your on one knob most of the time. But there a hoot in
> the dirt, thumpers a wheely machine right now.
> --- Ronald Criswell wrote:
>
> > They wore too quick for me.
> >
> > Criswell
> >
> > On Apr 12, 2006, at 2:36 PM, ATO137528@...
> > wrote:
> >
> > > The Kenda 270 is not a comfortable tire on
> > pavement at all. The knobs
> > > squirm all over the place, and it's downright
> > frightening when leaning
> > > hard. In the wet? No thanks. I've chunked knobs
> > in gravel, too. A
> > > usable tire if you only putter when you hafta' use
> > some pavement.
> > > Great in the dirt. Cheap, too.
> > >
> > > But if you want a GREAT tire and aren't afraid to
> > pop the extra bucks,
> > > get some Continental TKC-80's. Great on the
> > pavement and great
> > > anywhere off-road except mud and deep sand. Of
> > course, if you want to
> > > ride a 350+ pound KLR in mud or deep sand, well...
> > You're in for a
> > > bad
> > > day regardless of your tire chice.
> > >
> > > I'm a few miles from buying my third set.
> > >
> > > Lamar
> > > A14
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Archive Quicksearch at:
> >
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
> > > klr650_data_search.html
> > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at:
> >
www.dualsportnews.com
> > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at:
> >
www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
> > > Member Map at:
http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Archive Quicksearch at:
> >
>
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html
> > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at:
> >
www.dualsportnews.com
> > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at:
> >
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> > Member Map at:
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> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Sean Brown
> International Order of the KLR.
> "yeh, unto the ride, the thumper, yeh, and it was good, and thine
did rejoice" amen
> matteeanne@...
>
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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 10:41:05 -0000
From: "Don"
Subject: Re: Front sprocket change ?
After reading the original post, I'm wondering if he's really more
interested in hearing from those KLR riders that put a 16 tooth front
sprocket on (road-orientation).
It's been interesting though, to me, to see how a 14 tooth hasn't
really reduce gas mileage that much but mucking around performance
was improved.
Don
R100, A6F KLR
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Carlos Rigdon"
wrote:
>
> On 4/14/06, Dooden wrote:
> > Basically remove the OEM front sprocket and install a 14T,
readjust
> > chain and poof all done, Seem to reach for 6th gear alot, but
makes
> > 1st gear usable in the heavy stuff, and 2nd gear ridable at slow
speed.
> >
> > Of course maybe your milage might drop reckon that all being
> > subjective to how you ride.
> My mileage went up 57 last 3 tanks 52 -52 before. But lots of
> backroads 45 50 mph stuff on them.
>
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