Wilsons Sandbox

On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 19:20:20 -0000 "Eric and Amy" writes:

> how hard is it to remove the ignition... any how to guides out > there? > i found a locksmith that can do it if i bring in the ignition for > $15

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Eric, It's not too hard to remove the ignition switch if you take it one step at a time. I would suggest you have a dremel type tool with a cut off wheel available to do it the way I'm going to suggest. This is just off the top of my head from when I removed mine last year. You have to get to the ignition switch so you should remove the fairing and headlight bracket. The bracket is bolted to the steering head with two bolts. Remove the instrument cluster by disconnecting the speedo drive cable and unplugging the electrical harness which goes from the cluster to the wiring connector holder below the cluster. Each connector is different so you shouldn't have to worry too much about connections. But you may find it helpful to write down the order of the connectors for when you replace them. You'll also need to unplug at least the ignition switch wires also. The cluster is held on from the bottom with either 2 or 4 bolts. I think you need a 6 or 8 mm wrench. Place the cluster out of the way. I think you'll now have access to the bottom of the ignition switch. You should be able to see two bolts with what looks like round heads on the bottom of the switch. These are anti tampering bolts or called something similar to that. They are installed at the factory and when the torque reaches a specific limit the end of the bolt breaks off and leaves nothing to grasp for removal. This makes it almost impossible to remove the ignition switch in a parking lot although I remember doing that in 1980 on a Toyota Corolla at Patrick AFB, Florida. For that vehicle I ended up using a hacksaw blade and it just takes longer than a dremel type tool. What I've found works well for me is to use a cut off wheel in a dremel type tool to cut a slot in the "head" of each bolt. Make it just wide and deep enough for a flat tip screwdriver. Make sure the screwdriver is larger enough to loosen the bolts. If you use a square shank screwdriver you can put a wrench on it and get some extra leverage. Be careful cutting the slots that you don't cut up the ignition switch housing in the process. Back out both bolts and the ignition switch should be free. Assembly is the reverse of the above procedure. I bought two new bolts with socket type heads so if I ever need to remove the ignition switch on a trip it will be easy. I don't remember for sure but would guess they bolts are 6mm and maybe 20mm long. It's probably best to take one along as a sample. Make sure you also get an allen wrench that fits the bolt head if you don't already have one available. May I also suggest when the locksmith gets done with the lock you make sure the key works in all positions. Last thing you want is to be on the road and have ignition switch get stuck in park with the forks locked. Looking at your address I'm guessing you're in the Air Force. Thanks for your service. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Too bad i'm not a motorcycle thief... I removed the 2 bolts to take off the entire fairing in about 30 seconds, removed the 2 screws on the plastic cover under the cluster in about 15 seconds, then the 2 nuts holding on the guage cluster in about 30 seconds. I looked at the "security" bolts, and noticed 2 screws next to them, so i said hmmmm. and then spent a few seconds taking those off, and off popped my ignition... the top half. The bottom half with the electronic circuit board and bottom housing is still there, held on by the security screws... but I don't need to bring that part in to get the key made, only the lock itself. Total time: about 5 minutes and $15 bucks to get a fresh key. Now I know not to leave my bike where somebody can throw it in the back of a pickup truck and do the same thing. Thanks for the info and instructions. Looking forward to riding again soon. Eric. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric and Amy" wrote:

> > how hard is it to remove the ignition... any how to guides out

there?

> i found a locksmith that can do it if i bring in the ignition for

$15

>

Got the ignition back together in about 3 minutes. Everything works great, although when i got to the locksmith, the price had changed to $25, even though they had quoted $15 the day before on the phone. I talked them into giving me a second key included. Nice to be mobile again. thanks again for your tips. neverda thunk it would be that easy. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric and Amy" wrote:

> > Too bad i'm not a motorcycle thief... > I removed the 2 bolts to take off the entire fairing in about 30 > seconds, removed the 2 screws on the plastic cover under the

cluster

> in about 15 seconds, then the 2 nuts holding on the guage cluster

in

> about 30 seconds. I looked at the "security" bolts, and noticed 2 > screws next to them, so i said hmmmm. and then spent a few seconds > taking those off, and off popped my ignition... the top half. > > The bottom half with the electronic circuit board and bottom

housing

> is still there, held on by the security screws... but I don't need

to

> bring that part in to get the key made, only the lock itself. > Total time: about 5 minutes and $15 bucks to get a fresh key. > > Now I know not to leave my bike where somebody can throw it in the > back of a pickup truck and do the same thing. > > Thanks for the info and instructions. Looking forward to riding > again soon. > Eric. > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric and Amy" > wrote: > > > > how hard is it to remove the ignition... any how to guides out > there? > > i found a locksmith that can do it if i bring in the ignition for > $15 > > >