Wilsons Sandbox

> > I had a issue while adjusting my valves and broke a cam cap, the > piece fell into the chain and throw the timing off and the valves > hit the piston at low speed. > > This is kinda a long story. 1999 KLR 13,000 miles well cared for. > > I have changed the caps and set the cam timing correctly as far as I > can tell, I have a running spare motor and back checked to it also. > With the timing mark on the third mark (T) the two cams are even > with the head and pointing forward. I ran the bike and I had good > bottom end but no top end. Died at 3000 or there abouts, about 50- > 55 MPH. I measured vacuum and while starting, throttle closed, it > is major, like -30" hg. I did a compression check and got 70 or so > PSI. I did a static PSI check where I put pressure into the > cylinder with a power bar on the cylinder, I started at 30 PSI and > heard a leak around the rings, into the crankcase. I removed the > rad cap, checked the muffler and the carbee, no leaks. I added > about an ounce or two oil into the cylinder and the bubble type leak > quit. I upped the PSI to 60 and no sound of leaks, no power bar on > the crank, for a minite or so. My friend said move the timing ahead > a few degrees, that almost broke my arm as the cylinder spun ahead > quickly, as the intake valves opened. I had the cylinder at TDC for > a while with 60 PSI on it, no power bar and it stayed there. I > started the bike after and lots of oil smoke due to the ounce of oil > I added, no oil smoke before that, as far as I can tell. I put a > new plug into the bike today, before this, old one wasn't bad. > > I have come to the conclusion that I have a carbee problem. At some > point I have had the top off the carb, last winter I guess. Maybe > I didn't get the diaphram on right? I took the diaphram off today > and cut it, it didn't fit well, stretched due to gasoline. New one > coming. > > The bike was running good before I worked on the valves. No oil > buring etc. I had the carb apart so I think I may have gotten it > back togeather wrong, not that hard to do. The carb is vacuum > secondaries so if there is a leak it wouldn't work. > > Anyone have any advice to give? I will take the bike out for one > more run before I float test it. I will try to glue the diaphram > togeather for now to test if for good performance. > > The problem I have is that I have a buyer for the other motor, and > want to tell them yes or no. I think that this origional motor is > good, I just have to sort out these little problems. My hunch is > that this origional motor has small problems, nothing major so it is > OK to let the other motor go, does that sound reasonable? > > JimmieA. >

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jimmie A." wrote: > > I had a issue while adjusting my valves and broke a cam cap, the > piece fell into the chain and throw the timing off and the valves > hit the piston at low speed. > > This is kinda a long story. 1999 KLR 13,000 miles well cared for. > > I have changed the caps and set the cam timing correctly as far as I > can tell, I have a running spare motor and back checked to it also. > With the timing mark on the third mark (T) the two cams are even > with the head and pointing forward. I ran the bike and I had good > bottom end but no top end. Died at 3000 or there abouts, about 50- > 55 MPH. I measured vacuum and while starting, throttle closed, it > is major, like -30" hg. I did a compression check and got 70 or so > PSI. I did a static PSI check where I put pressure into the > cylinder with a power bar on the cylinder, I started at 30 PSI and > heard a leak around the rings, into the crankcase. I removed the > rad cap, checked the muffler and the carbee, no leaks. I added > about an ounce or two oil into the cylinder and the bubble type leak > quit. I upped the PSI to 60 and no sound of leaks, no power bar on > the crank, for a minite or so. My friend said move the timing ahead > a few degrees, that almost broke my arm as the cylinder spun ahead > quickly, as the intake valves opened. I had the cylinder at TDC for > a while with 60 PSI on it, no power bar and it stayed there. I > started the bike after and lots of oil smoke due to the ounce of oil > I added, no oil smoke before that, as far as I can tell. I put a > new plug into the bike today, before this, old one wasn't bad. > > I have come to the conclusion that I have a carbee problem. At some > point I have had the top off the carb, last winter I guess. Maybe > I didn't get the diaphram on right? I took the diaphram off today > and cut it, it didn't fit well, stretched due to gasoline. New one > coming. > > The bike was running good before I worked on the valves. No oil > buring etc. I had the carb apart so I think I may have gotten it > back togeather wrong, not that hard to do. The carb is vacuum > secondaries so if there is a leak it wouldn't work. > > Anyone have any advice to give? I will take the bike out for one > more run before I float test it. I will try to glue the diaphram > togeather for now to test if for good performance. > > The problem I have is that I have a buyer for the other motor, and > want to tell them yes or no. I think that this origional motor is > good, I just have to sort out these little problems. My hunch is > that this origional motor has small problems, nothing major so it is > OK to let the other motor go, does that sound reasonable? > > JimmieA. >

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > Hi Jimmie, > > Do YOU have a technical issue with the engine? Would YOU install it > as is, and expect it to be OK? > > Tell the buyer what you just told us, and then offer, "'no > guarantee', this is all I know." Give full disclosure, he will > appreciate it. Many readers here are very dedicated to the KLR and > operate on strict budgets, and would hate to get hosed by another > KLR rider...which would be a detriment to you, as much as the buyer. > > Again, Would YOU install it as is, and expect it to be OK? > > revmaaatin. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jimmie A." wrote: > > > > I had a issue while adjusting my valves and broke a cam cap, the > > piece fell into the chain and throw the timing off and the valves > > hit the piston at low speed. > > > > This is kinda a long story. 1999 KLR 13,000 miles well cared for. > > > > I have changed the caps and set the cam timing correctly as far as > I > > can tell, I have a running spare motor and back checked to it > also. > > With the timing mark on the third mark (T) the two cams are even > > with the head and pointing forward. I ran the bike and I had good > > bottom end but no top end. Died at 3000 or there abouts, about 50- > > 55 MPH. I measured vacuum and while starting, throttle closed, > it > > is major, like -30" hg. I did a compression check and got 70 or > so > > PSI. I did a static PSI check where I put pressure into the > > cylinder with a power bar on the cylinder, I started at 30 PSI and > > heard a leak around the rings, into the crankcase. I removed the > > rad cap, checked the muffler and the carbee, no leaks. I added > > about an ounce or two oil into the cylinder and the bubble type > leak > > quit. I upped the PSI to 60 and no sound of leaks, no power bar > on > > the crank, for a minite or so. My friend said move the timing > ahead > > a few degrees, that almost broke my arm as the cylinder spun ahead > > quickly, as the intake valves opened. I had the cylinder at TDC > for > > a while with 60 PSI on it, no power bar and it stayed there. I > > started the bike after and lots of oil smoke due to the ounce of > oil > > I added, no oil smoke before that, as far as I can tell. I put a > > new plug into the bike today, before this, old one wasn't bad. > > > > I have come to the conclusion that I have a carbee problem. At > some > > point I have had the top off the carb, last winter I guess. > Maybe > > I didn't get the diaphram on right? I took the diaphram off today > > and cut it, it didn't fit well, stretched due to gasoline. New > one > > coming. > > > > The bike was running good before I worked on the valves. No oil > > buring etc. I had the carb apart so I think I may have gotten it > > back togeather wrong, not that hard to do. The carb is vacuum > > secondaries so if there is a leak it wouldn't work. > > > > Anyone have any advice to give? I will take the bike out for one > > more run before I float test it. I will try to glue the diaphram > > togeather for now to test if for good performance. > > > > The problem I have is that I have a buyer for the other motor, and > > want to tell them yes or no. I think that this origional motor is > > good, I just have to sort out these little problems. My hunch is > > that this origional motor has small problems, nothing major so it > is > > OK to let the other motor go, does that sound reasonable? > > > > JimmieA. > > >