>From: "Jim"
>To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Sub Frame Upgrade>>>>>>>>>>(Calling Darren Clark)
>Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 14:08:47 -0000
>
>What say you on this message and subject. Please clarify this for all
>of us, if you will. (I think you were the one who did the explaination
>on brakes once ~ thought I was reading Kevin Cameron!)
>
>Thanks
>
>Jim A17
>
>
>
>--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski"
>wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys, just so you understand, harder, higher "grade" bolts are not
> > necessarily better. My limitted metallurgical knowledge tells me
>that the
> > standare bolt, a grade 2 (I think) is plenty hard. Just get hit in
>the head
> > by one. It has a certain amount of carbon in it. This bolt is fine
>for many
> > applications where a low cost, positive attachment is required. It
>is pretty
> > vibration and fatigue resistant as well. Understand that carbon is what
> > gives steel its "hardness". Lets leave it at that without going too
>deeply
> > into it. The grade 5 bolt is heat treated to give it additional
>hardness on
> > the surface. The bolt is "harder" and has a somewhat higher tensile
> > (stretch) and yield (bending) strength. If the application calls for a
> > harder surface, more resistant to scuffing or nicking, grade 5 may
>be OK.
> > The grade 8 is actually called an alloy, higher in carbon and is
>definitely
> > harder, on a Brinell or Rockwell scale (higher tension and yield
>strengths)
> > but the brittleness is also higher so if the application calls for some
> > bending, because some attachments are meant to give a little, the
>grade 8
> > bolt will fail sooner than a 2. Grade 8 bolts are also typically
>not used
> > in a high vibration application because they stress crack. Obviously
>the
> > frame attachment is not meant to flex. The higher tensile strength of a
> > grade 8, or its metric equivelant, 12.5, can be tightened more and
>is less
> > likely to stretch and come loose.
> >
> >
> > >From: "Robert Melvin"
> > >To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Sub Frame Upgrade
> > >Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 10:31:22 -0800
> > >
> > >Hi,
> > >
> > >(sorry for the confusion with my emails - Gmail has some features that
> > >have caused me some difficulty / confusion - I think I have it taken
> > >care of now. This is what I meant to send.)
> > >
> > >Yes, $35 is a lot of difference - but not if you have to drill a
> > >hardened bolt out - especially if you are not doing so at a time /
> > >place of your choosing with all the correct tools and the ability /
> > >time to go back to the store for more bits, etc... Such an experience
> > >will easily cost $35 even without taking into account time, missed
> > >plans, and aggravation.
> > >
> > >I used to have a '72 Volvo with a modified Delco alternator and it
> > >would break grade 8 bolts - I finally found a Caterpillar track bolt
> > >that was supposed to be something like a grade 11 equivalent - it
> > >never broke.
> > >
> > >However, what I would do though is put a nut on the bolt, slot the
> > >thread end of the bolt with a hacksaw or grinder, unscrew the nut
> > >(repairs threads a bit) and then use the bolt. On the Volvo, I had
> > >access to the slotted end of the bolt after it had broken and I would
> > >unscrew it with a straight bladed screwdriver (easy), replace the bolt
> > >with the next victim, and drive home with headlights.
> > >
> > >
> > >Archive Quicksearch at:
> > >
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
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