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klr doesn't start right away.
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 3:12 pm
by rxm98
When I apply choke, it takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds before it
starts. No choke, it takes forever if I'm lucky. I recently replaced
the spark plug with a Motocraft 806 or 809, I can't remember which
one, but I gapped it to about .035. Does the gap make a difference?
Should I go to .032? The recommended is .032-.036.
It is an 88 with a Vulcan coil installed, Can that have anything to do
with it?
I do have a fuel filter inline.
I'm afraid that eventually my battery will die from cranking so long,
and that I'll be stuck somewhere.
Thanks
klr doesn't start right away.
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 5:31 pm
by Alan L Henderson
rxm98 wrote:
> When I apply choke, it takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds before it
> starts. No choke, it takes forever if I'm lucky. I recently replaced
What is the problem with using the choke? Alot of bikes in this lean mix
day and age need the mixture made richer to start even when just shut
off for 30 min.
Alan Henderson A13 Iowa
klr doesn't start right away.
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 6:47 pm
by dooden
Pilot Circuit on the carb helped my bike go from a Choke when warm or
cold to hit the starter button with the key on.
Drilled cap, opened the screw about 1/4 turn more thats about it,
basically seated the needle and backed it out about 1 3/4 turns and it
was fine, have fiddled with it since but still starts fine even with
my weak battery. (knock on wood) Oct 02 I got the bike with that
battery in it and it sits all cold winter up here in da nort eh..
Dooden
A15 Green Ape
Same spark plug in it also, suppose should pull that and at least get
some anti-seize on the threads if its not too late already.
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "rxm98" wrote:
>
> When I apply choke, it takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds before it
> starts. No choke, it takes forever if I'm lucky. I recently replaced
> the spark plug with a Motocraft 806 or 809, I can't remember which
> one, but I gapped it to about .035. Does the gap make a difference?
> Should I go to .032? The recommended is .032-.036.
>
> It is an 88 with a Vulcan coil installed, Can that have anything to do
> with it?
>
> I do have a fuel filter inline.
>
> I'm afraid that eventually my battery will die from cranking so long,
> and that I'll be stuck somewhere.
>
> Thanks
>
klr doesn't start right away.
Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:48 am
by Alan L Henderson
Alan L Henderson wrote:
> rxm98 wrote:
>
>>When I apply choke, it takes anywhere from 10-20 seconds before it
>>starts. No choke, it takes forever if I'm lucky. I recently replaced
>
>
>
> What is the problem with using the choke? Alot of bikes in this lean mix
> day and age need the mixture made richer to start even when just shut
> off for 30 min.
> Alan Henderson A13 Iowa
>
On second thought, after another poster pointed it out to me, I guess
that 10 to 20 seconds is kind of a long time. Have you tried adjusting
your idle mixture yet?
Alan Henderson A13 Iowa
klr doesn't start right away.
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 7:53 am
by Alan L Henderson
rxm98 wrote:
> I haven't tried that yet. Where exactly is that located? Would that
> be the pilot screw where cap is drilled out to get to it? What would
> be the correct adjustment?
Yes, that would be the pilot screw and the faq at
http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
will give you the general consensus on adjustment.
>
> I was also thinking that there might be some sort of problem with the
> choke not working properly. Is that a possibility and how to check
> it?
It might be possible that it isn't working properly but other than
saying to check to make sure the cable and fittings are in place and not
broken I don't have a clue.
Have you modified the air box or the exhaust?
Alan Henderson A13 Iowa
klr doesn't start right away.
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2005 8:10 am
by dooden
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Alan L Henderson
wrote:
>
> rxm98 wrote:
> > I haven't tried that yet. Where exactly is that located? Would that
> > be the pilot screw where cap is drilled out to get to it? What would
> > be the correct adjustment?
>
> Yes, that would be the pilot screw and the faq at
>
http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
> will give you the general consensus on adjustment.
>
>
>
> >
> > I was also thinking that there might be some sort of problem with the
> > choke not working properly. Is that a possibility and how to check
> > it?
> It might be possible that it isn't working properly but other than
> saying to check to make sure the cable and fittings are in place and
not
> broken I don't have a clue.
>
> Have you modified the air box or the exhaust?
> Alan Henderson A13 Iowa
>
http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
Shows some detail about the carb also.
I removed the choke cable at the handlebar, loosened the carb and
rotated it so the bottom faced the shifter side, drilled a small hole,
started a small sheet metal screw, and pulled the screw with cap
attached out with pliers.
http://members.aol.com/cloudhid/carb.jpg
klr doesn't start right away.
Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 6:23 pm
by rxm98
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote:
>
http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
>
> Shows some detail about the carb also.
>
> I removed the choke cable at the handlebar, loosened the carb and
> rotated it so the bottom faced the shifter side, drilled a small hole,
> started a small sheet metal screw, and pulled the screw with cap
> attached out with pliers.
>
>
http://members.aol.com/cloudhid/carb.jpg
> Dooden
> A15 Green Ape
>
> Oh do not call Jakes phone number on that old website, Jake is out
> scouting trails for all of us to ride when we pass over.
>
> RIP my friend
>
So I ripped the carb out of the bike and cleaned it up. I noticed
varnish on the bottom of the float bowl. I used a small brush and
carb cleaner. I also removed the main jet and cleaned it thoroughly.
I the notice that the cap on the pilot screw was already removed. I
turned the pilot screw 1 turn counterclockwise (which would be out)
anyway. Someone said this could richen the mixture to help startup.
Put it back together and on the bike.
---Bike wouldn't start.
I changed the spark plug and set the gap to 32 instead of 35.
It started right up almost like a new bike, but a new problem
persists. As soon as I give it throttle, it dies. I mean, I can
crank the throttle all open and it stumbles a bit and then revs up to
higher rpms. But applying just a little, maybe up to 1/4 throttle at
most, it dies.
So what did I do to screw this up. The clymer book calls out for the
pilot to be adjust to 1 3/8 turns. SHould I start from there.
THanks for all your help out there. I need it.
klr doesn't start right away.
Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:04 am
by dooden
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "rxm98" wrote:
snip
> --- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote:
snip
> So I ripped the carb out of the bike and cleaned it up. I noticed
> varnish on the bottom of the float bowl. I used a small brush and
> carb cleaner. I also removed the main jet and cleaned it thoroughly.
>
> I the notice that the cap on the pilot screw was already removed. I
> turned the pilot screw 1 turn counterclockwise (which would be out)
> anyway. Someone said this could richen the mixture to help startup.
>
> Put it back together and on the bike.
> ---Bike wouldn't start.
> I changed the spark plug and set the gap to 32 instead of 35.
> It started right up almost like a new bike, but a new problem
> persists. As soon as I give it throttle, it dies. I mean, I can
> crank the throttle all open and it stumbles a bit and then revs up to
> higher rpms. But applying just a little, maybe up to 1/4 throttle at
> most, it dies.
>
> So what did I do to screw this up. The clymer book calls out for the
> pilot to be adjust to 1 3/8 turns. SHould I start from there.
>
> THanks for all your help out there. I need it.
>
I would start at 1 3/4 to 2 full turns out and since you seen varnish,
I would add Sea-Foam to the gas tank and run it to see if it will
clear up, before doing anything else.
Good Luck
Dooden
A15 Green Ape
klr vs. dr ??
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 10:29 am
by John Radebaugh
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Frey wrote:
>
> I want to hear what the DR guys say. Hope we get a report!
>
>
\My take:
I have ridden over 12K miles on an 03 DR650 and recently about 8K
miles on a well equipped KLR650. I absolutley love my KLR and spend
as much tme on the dirt and gravel as pavement doing adventure
campouts etc. I did the same on my DR.
The bottom line is this: If Suzuki would have seen fit to have sold
the DR with a larger gas tank, a more suitable seat, and some kind
of modest fairing, it would be the current dual sport best seller! I
will repeat, I love my KLR! But, the air/oil cooled DR motor is
much more bullet proof, easier to work on in all respects. Simple
things like changing spark pulgs, tightening chain tension, and on
and on, are much simpler and more logical on the DR. It is far
easier to handle in the dirt and handles the highway just as well as
the KLR (if it has the upgrades of saddle and tank and fairing!)
As far as aftermarket stuff is concerned, really how much extra
stuff can you bolt on a motorcycle? Everything you may ever need is
out there!
If I had it to do all over again, I would have a DR650 with another
IMS tank, a Corbin seat, a windscreen (of my design), skid plates,
racks, panniers, fork spring and rear shock upgrades, and a few mre
fun extras and it would be the best out there right now!
But I still love my KLR!
JR in Cashmere
