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				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 7:59 am
				by Glen
				hey all,
 
 i just took the engine out of the frame for the second time!!  it is 
 a long story as to why but it basically comes down to not being able 
 to afford a transmission part at the time and therefore thinking "it 
 will be okay", BUT it isn't okay and i want to fix it when it is 
 cold not when it is sunny in the summer, since the riding season is 
 so short around here.  now to the question:  last time i did the 
 rebuild i was sans rotor holder tool and such but what i used was an 
 electric impact to remove the bolt which i don't see as a problem.  
 i also installed it this way and it ran fine and is still running 
 fine 15,000 kms later so my plan is to do it again this way, making 
 sure i use a new bolt with some locktite on it, the main reason for 
 this is as you might have guess lack of money.  i know the purists 
 would say to make sure that i use the holder tool and such but i am 
 just wondering are there any negative consequences to this??  as i 
 said i haven't seen any after 15,000 kms is there anyone out there 
 who has??  
 
 glenski - don't worry i already did my doohickey last time!!
 a14
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:06 am
				by Fred Hink
				Negative consequences?  How about that nagging little voice in the back of
 your head saying "I wonder if that rotor bolt got tight enough and if the
 flywheel is going to fly off" or "I wonder if that rotor bolt got tightened
 too much and the rotor bolt breaks, letting the flywheel fly off?".  Since
 you don't know at what torque your electric impact wrench would tighten this
 bolt, it may be the correct torque, too tight or not tight enough.  There
 lies the problem.  If you could find out what torque your impact wrench will
 work at, this might help silence those voices.
 
 Fred
 
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
 http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html
 
 
 
 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
 From: "Glen" 
 To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
 Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 6:58 AM
 Subject: [DSN_klr650] engine rebuild - rotor removal
 
 
 >
 >
 > hey all,
 >
 > i just took the engine out of the frame for the second time!!  it is
 > a long story as to why but it basically comes down to not being able
 > to afford a transmission part at the time and therefore thinking "it
 > will be okay", BUT it isn't okay and i want to fix it when it is
 > cold not when it is sunny in the summer, since the riding season is
 > so short around here.  now to the question:  last time i did the
 > rebuild i was sans rotor holder tool and such but what i used was an
 > electric impact to remove the bolt which i don't see as a problem.
 > i also installed it this way and it ran fine and is still running
 > fine 15,000 kms later so my plan is to do it again this way, making
 > sure i use a new bolt with some locktite on it, the main reason for
 > this is as you might have guess lack of money.  i know the purists
 > would say to make sure that i use the holder tool and such but i am
 > just wondering are there any negative consequences to this??  as i
 > said i haven't seen any after 15,000 kms is there anyone out there
 > who has??
 >
 > glenski - don't worry i already did my doohickey last time!!
 > a14 
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:28 am
				by Conall
				I agree with Fred, without a " torque stick" you really have no idea 
 how much torque you are applying with your air wrench. A torque stick 
 is commonly used by automotive garages when reinstalling wheel lug 
 nuts/bolts.
 
 They are rated for different torque ratings, are spring loaded 
 devices that will automatically stop tightening the bolts once the 
 torque value is reached.
 Problem is torque sticks are not inexpensive.
 Maybe a torque stick is an item you may want to be able to supply 
 Fred.
 
 Conall
 
 
 --- In 
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink"  wrote:
 > Negative consequences?  How about that nagging little voice in the 
 back of
 > your head saying "I wonder if that rotor bolt got tight enough and 
 if the
 > flywheel is going to fly off" or "I wonder if that rotor bolt got 
 tightened
 > too much and the rotor bolt breaks, letting the flywheel fly 
 off?".  Since
 > you don't know at what torque your electric impact wrench would 
 tighten this
 > bolt, it may be the correct torque, too tight or not tight enough.  
 There
 > lies the problem.  If you could find out what torque your impact 
 wrench will
 > work at, this might help silence those voices.
 > 
 > Fred
 > 
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
 > 
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > ----- Original Message ----- 
 > From: "Glen" 
 > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
 > Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 6:58 AM
 > Subject: [DSN_klr650] engine rebuild - rotor removal
 > 
 > 
 > >
 > >
 > > hey all,
 > >
 > > i just took the engine out of the frame for the second time!!  it 
 is
 > > a long story as to why but it basically comes down to not being 
 able
 > > to afford a transmission part at the time and therefore 
 thinking "it
 > > will be okay", BUT it isn't okay and i want to fix it when it is
 > > cold not when it is sunny in the summer, since the riding season 
 is
 > > so short around here.  now to the question:  last time i did the
 > > rebuild i was sans rotor holder tool and such but what i used was 
 an
 > > electric impact to remove the bolt which i don't see as a problem.
 > > i also installed it this way and it ran fine and is still running
 > > fine 15,000 kms later so my plan is to do it again this way, 
 making
 > > sure i use a new bolt with some locktite on it, the main reason 
 for
 > > this is as you might have guess lack of money.  i know the purists
 > > would say to make sure that i use the holder tool and such but i 
 am
 > > just wondering are there any negative consequences to this??  as i
 > > said i haven't seen any after 15,000 kms is there anyone out there
 > > who has??
 > >
 > > glenski - don't worry i already did my doohickey last time!!
 > > a14 
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:34 am
				by Glen
				how much is a "torque stick" and where would i be able to buy one 
 here in canada??  that would seem like maybe a better purchase for 
 me since it would be a more than one time use item, and i might be 
 able to justify it if it attaches right on to the impact.  i have 
 heard about them before and have heard that they might be unreliable 
 due to the nature of the impact pounding on them it might be that 
 they would be very inaccurate over time??  
 
 glenski
 a14
 
 
 
 
 
 
 --- In 
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Conall"  wrote:
 > 
 > I agree with Fred, without a " torque stick" you really have no 
 idea 
 > how much torque you are applying with your air wrench. A torque 
 stick 
 > is commonly used by automotive garages when reinstalling wheel lug 
 > nuts/bolts.
 > 
 > They are rated for different torque ratings, are spring loaded 
 > devices that will automatically stop tightening the bolts once the 
 > torque value is reached.
 > Problem is torque sticks are not inexpensive.
 > Maybe a torque stick is an item you may want to be able to supply 
 > Fred.
 > 
 > Conall
 > 
 > --- In 
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink"  wrote:
 > > Negative consequences?  How about that nagging little voice in 
 the 
 > back of
 > > your head saying "I wonder if that rotor bolt got tight enough 
 and 
 > if the
 > > flywheel is going to fly off" or "I wonder if that rotor bolt 
 got 
 > tightened
 > > too much and the rotor bolt breaks, letting the flywheel fly 
 > off?".  Since
 > > you don't know at what torque your electric impact wrench would 
 > tighten this
 > > bolt, it may be the correct torque, too tight or not tight 
 enough.  
 > There
 > > lies the problem.  If you could find out what torque your impact 
 > wrench will
 > > work at, this might help silence those voices.
 > > 
 > > Fred
 > > 
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
 > > 
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html
 > > 
 > > 
 > > 
 > > 
 > > ----- Original Message ----- 
 > > From: "Glen" 
 > > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
 > > Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 6:58 AM
 > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] engine rebuild - rotor removal
 > > 
 > > 
 > > >
 > > >
 > > > hey all,
 > > >
 > > > i just took the engine out of the frame for the second time!!  
 it 
 > is
 > > > a long story as to why but it basically comes down to not 
 being 
 > able
 > > > to afford a transmission part at the time and therefore 
 > thinking "it
 > > > will be okay", BUT it isn't okay and i want to fix it when it 
 is
 > > > cold not when it is sunny in the summer, since the riding 
 season 
 > is
 > > > so short around here.  now to the question:  last time i did 
 the
 > > > rebuild i was sans rotor holder tool and such but what i used 
 was 
 > an
 > > > electric impact to remove the bolt which i don't see as a 
 problem.
 > > > i also installed it this way and it ran fine and is still 
 running
 > > > fine 15,000 kms later so my plan is to do it again this way, 
 > making
 > > > sure i use a new bolt with some locktite on it, the main 
 reason 
 > for
 > > > this is as you might have guess lack of money.  i know the 
 purists
 > > > would say to make sure that i use the holder tool and such but 
 i 
 > am
 > > > just wondering are there any negative consequences to this??  
 as i
 > > > said i haven't seen any after 15,000 kms is there anyone out 
 there
 > > > who has??
 > > >
 > > > glenski - don't worry i already did my doohickey last time!!
 > > > a14 
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:48 am
				by Conall
				A real professional will use a torque stick to install the bolt, and 
 then use a torque wrench to double check it. Why not just use a 
 torque wrench? because using the air wrench first, saves time . if 
 you are so busy that time equals money then that would come into play.
 But for the P/T wrench a torque wrench should be sufficient.
 
 Torque sticks only are accurate with  air wrenches, if you use a 
 torque stick with a breaker bar it is possible to overtighten the 
 bolt.
 
 As far as price and sources, use google, to tell you the truth that 
 is where i get most of my info. I think that they are built to last, 
 thus there are not cheap, and shouldn't fall out of spec. Unless you 
 are doing mil-spec work with auditors looking of your shoulder and 
 demanding traceability back to metrology standards, I wouldn't worry 
 about calibration.
 
 Cheers,
 
 Conall
 
 
 --- In 
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Glen"  wrote:
 > 
 > how much is a "torque stick" and where would i be able to buy one 
 > here in canada??  that would seem like maybe a better purchase for 
 > me since it would be a more than one time use item, and i might be 
 > able to justify it if it attaches right on to the impact.  i have 
 > heard about them before and have heard that they might be 
 unreliable 
 > due to the nature of the impact pounding on them it might be that 
 > they would be very inaccurate over time??  
 > 
 > glenski
 > a14
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > 
 > --- In 
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Conall"  
 wrote:
 > > 
 > > I agree with Fred, without a " torque stick" you really have no 
 > idea 
 > > how much torque you are applying with your air wrench. A torque 
 > stick 
 > > is commonly used by automotive garages when reinstalling wheel 
 lug 
 > > nuts/bolts.
 > > 
 > > They are rated for different torque ratings, are spring loaded 
 > > devices that will automatically stop tightening the bolts once 
 the 
 > > torque value is reached.
 > > Problem is torque sticks are not inexpensive.
 > > Maybe a torque stick is an item you may want to be able to supply 
 > > Fred.
 > > 
 > > Conall
 > > 
 > > --- In 
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink"  
 wrote:
 > > > Negative consequences?  How about that nagging little voice in 
 > the 
 > > back of
 > > > your head saying "I wonder if that rotor bolt got tight enough 
 > and 
 > > if the
 > > > flywheel is going to fly off" or "I wonder if that rotor bolt 
 > got 
 > > tightened
 > > > too much and the rotor bolt breaks, letting the flywheel fly 
 > > off?".  Since
 > > > you don't know at what torque your electric impact wrench would 
 > > tighten this
 > > > bolt, it may be the correct torque, too tight or not tight 
 > enough.  
 > > There
 > > > lies the problem.  If you could find out what torque your 
 impact 
 > > wrench will
 > > > work at, this might help silence those voices.
 > > > 
 > > > Fred
 > > > 
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
 > > > 
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html
 > > > 
 > > > 
 > > > 
 > > > 
 > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
 > > > From: "Glen" 
 > > > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
 > > > Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 6:58 AM
 > > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] engine rebuild - rotor removal
 > > > 
 > > > 
 > > > >
 > > > >
 > > > > hey all,
 > > > >
 > > > > i just took the engine out of the frame for the second 
 time!!  
 > it 
 > > is
 > > > > a long story as to why but it basically comes down to not 
 > being 
 > > able
 > > > > to afford a transmission part at the time and therefore 
 > > thinking "it
 > > > > will be okay", BUT it isn't okay and i want to fix it when it 
 > is
 > > > > cold not when it is sunny in the summer, since the riding 
 > season 
 > > is
 > > > > so short around here.  now to the question:  last time i did 
 > the
 > > > > rebuild i was sans rotor holder tool and such but what i used 
 > was 
 > > an
 > > > > electric impact to remove the bolt which i don't see as a 
 > problem.
 > > > > i also installed it this way and it ran fine and is still 
 > running
 > > > > fine 15,000 kms later so my plan is to do it again this way, 
 > > making
 > > > > sure i use a new bolt with some locktite on it, the main 
 > reason 
 > > for
 > > > > this is as you might have guess lack of money.  i know the 
 > purists
 > > > > would say to make sure that i use the holder tool and such 
 but 
 > i 
 > > am
 > > > > just wondering are there any negative consequences to this??  
 > as i
 > > > > said i haven't seen any after 15,000 kms is there anyone out 
 > there
 > > > > who has??
 > > > >
 > > > > glenski - don't worry i already did my doohickey last time!!
 > > > > a14 
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 12:38 pm
				by Thor Lancelot Simon
				On Tue, Dec 14, 2004 at 01:58:51PM -0000, Glen wrote:
 
 > 
 > 
 > hey all,
 > 
 > i just took the engine out of the frame for the second time!!  it is 
 > a long story as to why but it basically comes down to not being able 
 > to afford a transmission part at the time and therefore thinking "it 
 > will be okay", BUT it isn't okay and i want to fix it when it is 
 > cold not when it is sunny in the summer, since the riding season is 
 > so short around here.  now to the question:  last time i did the 
 > rebuild i was sans rotor holder tool and such but what i used was an 
 > electric impact to remove the bolt which i don't see as a problem.  
 
  
I'm surprised you managed to get the bolt loose without some way to
 hold the rotor.
 
 
 > i also installed it this way and it ran fine and is still running 
 > fine 15,000 kms later so my plan is to do it again this way, making 
 > sure i use a new bolt with some locktite on it, the main reason for 
 > this is as you might have guess lack of money.  i know the purists 
 
  
How will you know how tight the bolt actually is if the rotor can
 move while you're tightening it?  Tightening that bolt presses the
 rotor down onto a tapered shaft; how far it's pressed depends on hw
 tight the bolt is; and how *straight* it's pressed on will depend at
 least on getting some minimal amount of torque on that bolt.  Clearly
 there is some tolerance for sloppy work here (probably quite a bit)
 but I would still not want to tighten it in a way that left me with
 no idea at all how tight it actually was.  I don't think locktite on
 the threads will make much difference.  I also wonder if it is really
 a good idea to use locktite on components inside the engine though I
 admit I'm not really sure how it could do much harm...
 
 Thor
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 1:14 pm
				by Krgrife@aol.com
				In a message dated 12/14/2004 10:39:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,  
 tls@... writes:
 
 I'm  surprised you managed to get the bolt loose without some way to
 hold the  rotor.
 
 
 No holder need when using an impact wrench.  I have removed rotors  this way 
 but use a trorque wrench when putting them back on.  My local shop  mechanic 
 uses the air impact wrench to install the rotor but he has years of  experience 
 and knows the torque values of the impact wrench he is using.
 Kurt
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 1:22 pm
				by Thor Lancelot Simon
				On Tue, Dec 14, 2004 at 02:09:57PM -0500, Krgrife@... wrote:
 
 >  
 > No holder need when using an impact wrench.  I have removed rotors  this way 
 > but use a trorque wrench when putting them back on.  My local shop  mechanic 
 > uses the air impact wrench to install the rotor but he has years of  experience 
 > and knows the torque values of the impact wrench he is using.
 
  
Again, I have to ask how it's actually _possible_ to know the actual torque
 value applied (by an impact wrench or otherwise) when the rotor is not held
 firmly in place.  I definitely would not reinstall the rotor this way.
 
 -- 
  Thor Lancelot Simon	                                      tls@...
 
 "The inconsistency is startling, though admittedly, if consistency is to be
  abandoned or transcended, there is no problem."		- Noam Chomsky
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 1:26 pm
				by Krgrife@aol.com
				In a message dated 12/14/2004 11:22:28 AM Pacific Standard Time,  
 tls@... writes:
 
 Again, I  have to ask how it's actually _possible_ to know the actual torque
 value  applied (by an impact wrench or otherwise) when the rotor is not  held
 firmly in place.  I definitely would not reinstall the rotor this  way.
 
 
 
 As I posted, I use a torque wrench to reinstall the rotor.  I think  the 
 mechanics who use impact wrenches daily get a pretty good feel for it but I  
 certainly don't posess that skill level.  Not trying to start another list  pissing 
 contest here, just reporting my experience.
 Kurt
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
			 
			
					
				engine rebuild - rotor removal
				Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 5:32 pm
				by CA Stu
				--- In 
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon  wrote:
 
 > On Tue, Dec 14, 2004 at 02:09:57PM -0500, Krgrife@a... wrote:
 > >  
 > > No holder need when using an impact wrench.  I have removed rotors
  
 this way 
 
 > > but use a trorque wrench when putting them back on.  My local shop
  
 mechanic 
 
 > > uses the air impact wrench to install the rotor but he has years
  
of  experience 
 
 > > and knows the torque values of the impact wrench he is using.
 > 
 > Again, I have to ask how it's actually _possible_ to know the actual
  
torque
 
 > value applied (by an impact wrench or otherwise) when the rotor is
  
not held
 
 > firmly in place.  I definitely would not reinstall the rotor this way.
 >
 
  
If you are anal retentive, every fastener on every vehicle in the
 world has an assigned torque value. If you aren't that meticulous,
 tightening fasteners by feel is good enough in 99.9% of mechanical
 maintenance. Exceptions in my mind are items like intake manifold
 bolts, crankshaft and cam related bolts, stuff  like that. 
 
 All the rotor bolt does is hold the rotor onto the end of the
 crankshaft, I don't think a few foot pounds either way will make a
 darn bit of difference.
 
 The wrench at my local shop told me the same thing. Impact wrench, no
 holder, just zaps it on there by feel. 
 
 Of course what does he know, he's only maintained the city's fleet of
 cop bikes for umpty ump years, and does more repair and maintenance
 every day than most of us do in 6 months.
 
 Thanks
 CA Stu