--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Billy Watson wrote:
>
> Just bought a 1,000 mile 2004 KLR and am setting up the planned
maintenance sheet for it. I'm familiar with the process, I'm still
riding a 68,000 mile Honda XL600 so I'm OK with selected mile
intervals for most of the stuff and won't be asking about frequency of
things like oil, filter, chain, air filter, brake fluid, and fork oil
changes. Coolant will be changed pretty frequently because it's too
cheap NOT to change. However, the bikes do vary in a few areas so I'd
like some advice on maintenance intervals on four items. PS, riding
duty cycle is 90% street 10% dirt it's primarily the daily commuter
vehicle getting (2) 20-mile rides a day on the street.
>
> SWINGARM LUBRICATION:
>
> The Honda had zerk fittings, so this was easy. The KLR has none? I
have to remove the swingarm to lube it each time? KLR owner's manual
says 10,000 mile intervals. Opinions?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Lube it NOW, and about once a year, unless you ride water often, then
more. They often come DRY from the factory.
> BALANCER CHAIN TENSION:
>
> Yeah, I'll change the doohickey ASAP. But the Honda had a
gear-driven balancer so there was zero maintenance never touched it.
KLR owner's manual says 5,000 mile intervals. Is that reasonable in
your opinion?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
When you change your oil. It takes about 1 minute.
> BALANCER CHAIN REPLACEMENT:
>
> Elden Carl's doohickey site suggests replacing the chain every
30,000 miles because the tensioner system wasn't designed to
accommodate much chain wear and stops being useful because it tops
out? I'm disappointed if this is the case, but don't want further
damage. Those of you with 40K, 60K, 80K miles have you found that
your system topped out and required chain replacement already?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
The aftermarket balancer lever(s) allow more adjustability. Since the
article was written, we've measured a couple of chains with about
45-50K miles on them, still well within wear limits in manual. The CAM
CHAIN is another story. Inspect the automatic tensioner when you do
the valve adjustment (you have to remove it anyway) to see how far out
the adjustment arm is. Once it gets too far out, not enough bearing in
the housing, it can wobble up and down, instead of just pushing out.
Time for new chain. Maybe 50K? Time will tell, when you look.
> VALVE CLEARANCE CHECK:
>
> Took 20 minutes at most on the Honda from start to finish. Looks
like a much bigger deal here. But I recognize the superiority of the
shim-and-bucket system, it should outlast the Honda's system so it
shouldn't have to be done very often, right? Then I see that the KLR
owner's manual says every 6,000 miles! Again, I'm a little
disappointed I expected at least 20K. Anyone keep a log of their
adjustments over the years so I can appreciate a typical wear rate? I
recognize the typical wear direction results in less clearance and
possibly burned valves, so I'm not going to be cavalier about it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
They usually stay well in adjustment for 10-20k miles, once they've
taken a set. Adjust yours now, as often the initial 600 mile adj never
really happenened. Set to top of limit. Then probably just check for
the next 15K or so, at 5-6k intervals. Maybe good for 20K.
> Thanks in advance. If there is some other item not yet listed,
please advise.
>
> Bill
All the best,
Mike
Eagle Mfg & Eng
San Diego, Ca since 1990