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valve shims sizes
Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 4:50 pm
by Glen
i did my check the other day and i calculated that i needed 2-245
shims and 2-250 shims. i went to the dealer and the mechanic got
out the shim box and he had both 245s no problem and one 250 but he
didn't seem to have another 250 marked but there were a
few "unmarked" shims that he put the digital calipers on and he
found one that came up as a 248 he decided that it must be a 250
since it was closer to that than a 245. i said sounds good to me.
i payed for them and left when i got home i realized i have 3 marked
245s and one 250 however. what i am wondering is how much is this
goin to matter?? since it says 248 on the calipers after all. i did
the test where you put them on a flat surface and run your thumbnail
along it appears that the mysterious shim is somewhere between the
245 and the 250 that i have that i know for sure are marked it
matches up with neither one or the other. my plan is to go ahead
and use it as i 250 since it is barely noticably smaller than the
250. the use of this shim will put it on the lose side does this
sound like a bad plan?? by the way my vavles were all out of spec by
a at least a thou to the tight side of things so i am looking
forward to mild performance gains from this adjustment.
glenski - 2 months till the snow flys
a14
valve shims sizes
Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 4:57 pm
by Bogdan Swider
the use of this shim will put it on the lose side does this
> sound like a bad plan??
The shims are nothing in-of-themselves. Put them in and see what the
clearances are.
Bogdan
valve shims sizes
Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 7:08 am
by rsanders30117
Everything machined is machined within some sort of tolerance.
Nothing is perfect, so I check my shims, both as removed & going in
with a micrometer. They generally match the match the marking within
+/- 0.0015" but it doesn't hurt to double check. A caliper should be
accurate enough but 1" micrometers can be had just as cheap.
You're lucking to simply go by & pick some shims up. I have to
figure out what I need the order them by the first of the week so
they'll be delivered by that Friday.
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote:
> the use of this shim will put it on the lose side does this
> > sound like a bad plan??
>
> The shims are nothing in-of-themselves. Put them in and see what the
> clearances are.
>
> Bogdan
valve shims sizes
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2004 5:58 pm
by Rodney Copeland
Glenn Bro!
Tight valves mean better performance!
Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance!
This is of course for the KLR, clearance meanin less valve lift!
See ya on the other site!
Rod,,,,,,AKA Zrod
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Glen" wrote:
> i did my check the other day and i calculated that i needed 2-245
> shims and 2-250 shims. i went to the dealer and the mechanic got
> out the shim box and he had both 245s no problem and one 250 but he
> didn't seem to have another 250 marked but there were a
> few "unmarked" shims that he put the digital calipers on and he
> found one that came up as a 248 he decided that it must be a 250
> since it was closer to that than a 245. i said sounds good to me.
> i payed for them and left when i got home i realized i have 3
marked
> 245s and one 250 however. what i am wondering is how much is this
> goin to matter?? since it says 248 on the calipers after all. i
did
> the test where you put them on a flat surface and run your
thumbnail
> along it appears that the mysterious shim is somewhere between the
> 245 and the 250 that i have that i know for sure are marked it
> matches up with neither one or the other. my plan is to go ahead
> and use it as i 250 since it is barely noticably smaller than the
> 250. the use of this shim will put it on the lose side does this
> sound like a bad plan?? by the way my vavles were all out of spec
by
> a at least a thou to the tight side of things so i am looking
> forward to mild performance gains from this adjustment.
>
> glenski - 2 months till the snow flys
> a14
valve shims sizes
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2004 6:14 pm
by Thor Lancelot Simon
On Sat, Sep 11, 2004 at 10:58:47PM -0000, Rodney Copeland wrote:
> Glenn Bro!
> Tight valves mean better performance!
That really depends on engine RPM, doesn't it?
> Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance!
> This is of course for the KLR, clearance meanin less valve lift!
Most people seem to recommend setting the KLR valves to the loose end of
the spec.
Thor
valve shims sizes
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2004 6:32 pm
by Rodney Copeland
Yup Thor, and I will continue to do so!
More clearance equals less lift, doesn't matter what RPM.
I just don't want to have to adjust my valves every 2500 miles and
will stay with the maximum!
Cheers,
Rod
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon
wrote:
> On Sat, Sep 11, 2004 at 10:58:47PM -0000, Rodney Copeland wrote:
> > Glenn Bro!
> > Tight valves mean better performance!
>
> That really depends on engine RPM, doesn't it?
>
> > Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance!
> > This is of course for the KLR, clearance meanin less valve lift!
>
> Most people seem to recommend setting the KLR valves to the loose
end of
> the spec.
>
> Thor
valve shims sizes
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2004 6:49 pm
by Devon
zrod@... wrote:
>Glenn Bro!
>Tight valves mean better performance
>Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance
>
You need to be more specific. If "performance" means top end power and a higher top speed, than you're correct. And you bought the wrong bike.
If "performance" means low end torque and off-idle power, like you'd need in the woods or in city traffic, then you WANT the valves set to the outside of the clearance spec. I've read a couple books (mostly racebike and race car fabrication books, Tony Foale, and someone else I can't remember) that mentioned that they would routinely set the valves really loose on very tight tracks, if they were in a spec racing class and couldn't change cams to suit the track.
BTW as long as you set the valves somewhere between the tight and loose specs, it should be fine. I set the valves on my A15 to the loose end of spec at 733mi, and didn't have to change a shim until 23,000.
Devon
valve shims sizes
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2004 7:42 pm
by Glen
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon
wrote:
>
>
> zrod@h... wrote:
>
> >Glenn Bro!
> >Tight valves mean better performance
> >Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance
> >
> You need to be more specific. If "performance" means top end power
and a higher top speed, than you're correct. And you bought the
wrong bike.
>
> If "performance" means low end torque and off-idle power, like
you'd need in the woods or in city traffic, then you WANT the valves
set to the outside of the clearance spec. I've read a couple books
(mostly racebike and race car fabrication books, Tony Foale, and
someone else I can't remember) that mentioned that they would
routinely set the valves really loose on very tight tracks, if they
were in a spec racing class and couldn't change cams to suit the
track.
>
> BTW as long as you set the valves somewhere between the tight and
loose specs, it should be fine. I set the valves on my A15 to the
loose end of spec at 733mi, and didn't have to change a shim until
23,000.
>
> Devon
hey all
i very much agree with those who believe in setting them loose. i
have done so and i noticed a much better difference in performance
off idle and low end torque which i never had before. keeping in
mind that all of my valves where not even in spec they were soo
tight. it is wonderful they are happy tappy vavles now
and mine
runs way better than my cousins XS650 and his is a twin.
glenski
a14
valve shims sizes
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2004 7:48 pm
by Glen
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon
wrote:
>
>
> zrod@h... wrote:
>
> >Glenn Bro!
> >Tight valves mean better performance
> >Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance
> >
> You need to be more specific. If "performance" means top end power
and a higher top speed, than you're correct. And you bought the
wrong bike.
>
> If "performance" means low end torque and off-idle power, like
you'd need in the woods or in city traffic, then you WANT the valves
set to the outside of the clearance spec. I've read a couple books
(mostly racebike and race car fabrication books, Tony Foale, and
someone else I can't remember) that mentioned that they would
routinely set the valves really loose on very tight tracks, if they
were in a spec racing class and couldn't change cams to suit the
track.
>
> BTW as long as you set the valves somewhere between the tight and
loose specs, it should be fine. I set the valves on my A15 to the
loose end of spec at 733mi, and didn't have to change a shim until
23,000.
>
> Devon
hey all
i very much agree with those who believe in setting them loose. i
have done so and i noticed a much better difference in performance
off idle and low end torque which i never had before. keeping in
mind that all of my valves where not even in spec they were soo
tight. it is wonderful they are happy tappy vavles now
and mine
runs way better than my cousins XS650 and his is a twin.
glenski
a14
www.maddox.xmission.com/
Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2004 11:55 am
by Allen Maxfield
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:14:38 -0700
From: Chris Krok
Subject: NKLR Friday Funnies
Good morning, folks.
If you are easily offended, do not go to
http://www.maddox.xmission.com/
However, if you have a sense of humor (Zach, you'd probably enjoy this),
do go. The page about Websense (first one listed) is great. There's
also a comment in the "Hate Mail" section (any website that needs a
"hate mail" section usually kicks arse) about only moving your left
pinky 7/16 of an inch to turn off the caps lock. Might have to post the
picture to the list from time to time.
Oh yeah. It's Friday, and I'm Chris from Big Cee Engineering. Buy my
$hit!
http://www.bigcee.com
Krokko out!
-------------------------------------------------------
Krok---I only had a couple of minutes to read this site this morning....Terrific, thanks for sharing.
Allen Maxfield
Forestville, Sonoma County, California
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]