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that darn countershaft nut
Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2004 12:43 pm
by shirojiro1
So I spent my Saturday tinkering on the A16:
-cleaning the air filter,
-doing the T-vent mod,
-replacing the carburator nut that I broke when doing the jetting,
-trying to change my front sprocket to a 15T
First of all, my air filter was nasty. After fixing the carb nut and
cleaning the air filter, the bike runs and idles much better. The T-
vent mod is a snap, and it gives me a little more peace of mind for
all those deep water crossings in San Francisco.
But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A.
I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose to
save my life. I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold
the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I managed
to do was strain my hands. I tried my hand held impact driver, but
the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy
from the impact driver.
I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied
Liquid Wrench as well.
I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat things
up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket
as well as the countershaft seal.
Any other tips?
I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon.
-Shin
that darn countershaft nut
Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2004 6:02 pm
by shirojiro1
thanks for the tips - I think a longer bar and a 6 point socket are
in my future.
-Shin
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Walt" wrote:
> Don't use any heat. If you overdo it the oil seal can be damaged.
>
> Put the front tire against a wall and sit on the bike with your
foot on the
> rear brake. Use your left foot to push the cheater bar as your leg
muscles
> are much stronger than your arms and you can apply more body
weight. If
> your friend is still around have him hold you steady to avoid
slipping and
> falling. If this does not work then repeat above with a longer
bar. It is
> not necessary to make it so freaking tight when you replace it.
>
> Walt
> A14 "War Horse"
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A.
>
> I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose
to
> save my life. I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold
> the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I
managed
> to do was strain my hands. I tried my hand held impact driver, but
> the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy
> from the impact driver.
>
> I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied
> Liquid Wrench as well.
>
> I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat
things
> up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket
> as well as the countershaft seal.
>
> Any other tips?
>
> I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon.
>
> -Shin
that darn countershaft nut
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2004 7:01 am
by rsanders30117
I had exactly the same experience with the first time I tried to
remove my front sprocket nut. I resorted to cutting it off with a
Dremil abrasive wheel. By very carefully make two cuts 180 degrees
apart, then applying a chisel to the cuts. I was able to split the
nut with minimal damage to the shaft.
I also was tempted to apply a torch but I wouldn't because of the
oily deposits in the area & the vulnerable wiring. Don't take that
risk! I would ride it to a shop that has an impact wrench & have them
break it loose then hand tighten it back. You'll be good to go after
that.
The good news is that this is a problem only on the 1st time. I've
changed this sprocket many time since then & the standard nut with
the recommend torque removes very easily.
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "shirojiro1"
wrote:
> So I spent my Saturday tinkering on the A16:
>
> -cleaning the air filter,
> -doing the T-vent mod,
> -replacing the carburator nut that I broke when doing the jetting,
> -trying to change my front sprocket to a 15T
>
> First of all, my air filter was nasty. After fixing the carb nut
and
> cleaning the air filter, the bike runs and idles much better. The
T-
> vent mod is a snap, and it gives me a little more peace of mind for
> all those deep water crossings in San Francisco.
>
> But that countershaft nut is a P.I.T.A.
>
> I can bench press 455 lbs, but I can't get that sprocket nut loose
to
> save my life. I enlisted a similarly brawny friend of mine to hold
> the brake in place while I used a 3ft cheater bar, and all I
managed
> to do was strain my hands. I tried my hand held impact driver, but
> the play in the transmission seemed to absorb any rotational energy
> from the impact driver.
>
> I completely un-peened the locking washer and liberally applied
> Liquid Wrench as well.
>
> I'm thinking that I should have tried a propane torch to heat
things
> up, but I was worried about the wiring just forward of the sprocket
> as well as the countershaft seal.
>
> Any other tips?
>
> I'm probably just going to bring it to a shop soon.
>
> -Shin
digest number 5419
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2004 10:22 pm
by Harry Myhre
I say go for a new bike if you can...
HOWEVER - my local suzuki dealer has always maintained - you loose 25% of
the value of a bike the moment you ride it off the showroom floor
(Harley-Davidson's might be an exception to that rule).
On 8/15/04 4:21 PM, "
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com"
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 15:00:36 -0000
> From: "rther9491"
> Subject: gents
>
> i found a klr in california about an hour and a half away . the
> owner wants $4300.00 for the bike . i then have to pay about $380.00
> in cali taxes so the bike will go for about $4700.00 . the bike
> comes with a centerstsand , radiator guard and a skid plate and the
> bike is a green 2003 which is a color that i like . the bikes got
> 2900 miles and is described as pristine and the bike has no
> warranty . i spoke to the owner and i'd say that he is a [probably]
> decent , honest guy thats getting out of the bike due to a change in
> plans . --------- the other way that i can go would be a new bike
> with a warranty from a dealer that i found . he will let me have a
> new klr for $5500.00 out the door . the dealer will install all
> upgrades for free if i buy the parts from him . ----- so financialy
> speaking , which is the logical way to go ?????? ----- arthur