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uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2004 12:10 pm
by shirojiro1
Hi Folks,
I just got back in from changing my front brake pads, and I'm a bit
concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the piston
side had plenty of material left, but the in-board one was pretty
much ready to be changed.
I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the braking
performance has been great here in San Francisco with the hills
and all.
The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to be, and the
little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as well.
I'm a little perplexed about this. I would have expected that the
pad on the piston side might wear a little faster, not the other way
around.
The only thing that I can think of is that the in-board pad isn't
pulling away from the rotor when I let off the brakes. The rotor is
mounted solidly, and there is no perceivable warp.
The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I didn't put a mic
on it or anything...).
Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens.
I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia here in SF
didn't have Galfers.
Anyone else have a similar experience?
PS: Happy 4th of July!
-S
uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2004 1:41 pm
by bigfatgreenbike
shirojiro@... wrote:
>Hi Folks,
>
>I just got back in from changing my front brake pads, and I'm a bit
>concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the piston
>side had plenty of material left, but the in-board one was pretty
>much ready to be changed.
>
>
This also happens to me with the rear caliper. The caliper bracket seems
to bend over time, leaving the caliper cocked with respect to the rotor
(so the pads wear crooked as well). The "dead" pad (the one not moved by
the piston) wears VERY fast if the pins that the caliper rides upon are
not clean and well greased.
One of the drawbacks of the cheaper floating-caliper design is that the
caliper bracket and pins are a regular maintainance item. If you ride
offroad a lot in the wet, you end up pulling the rear caliper every
month or two.
>I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the braking
>performance has been great here in San Francisco with the hills
>and all.
>
>The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to be, and the
>little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as well.
>
I don't think you had anything mis-installed. Probably just time to pull
and clean up the caliper bracket.
>
>The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I didn't put a mic
>on it or anything...).
>
>Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens.
>
>I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia here in SF
>didn't have Galfers.
>
I use whatever the local shop has on hand. Galfer Greens were great for
the street but I don't recommend them for mud.
Devon
uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2004 4:36 pm
by Guest
--- shirojiro1 wrote:
> You might be having the caliper slider pins hanging
up they tend to stick after awhile i seperate mine
from the calipers every other pad change and lube them
with molybedenum grease this seems to help the pad
wear but its not unusual to have the inner pad wear
more than the outer.................................
Hi Folks,
>
> I just got back in from changing my front brake
> pads, and I'm a bit
> concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the
> piston
> side had plenty of material left, but the in-board
> one was pretty
> much ready to be changed.
>
> I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the
> braking
> performance has been great here in San Francisco
> with the hills
> and all.
>
> The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to
> be, and the
> little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as
> well.
>
> I'm a little perplexed about this. I would have
> expected that the
> pad on the piston side might wear a little faster,
> not the other way
> around.
>
> The only thing that I can think of is that the
> in-board pad isn't
> pulling away from the rotor when I let off the
> brakes. The rotor is
> mounted solidly, and there is no perceivable warp.
>
> The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I
> didn't put a mic
> on it or anything...).
>
> Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens.
>
> I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia
> here in SF
> didn't have Galfers.
>
> Anyone else have a similar experience?
>
> PS: Happy 4th of July!
>
> -S
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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> Krok at:
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uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2004 5:51 pm
by Mike Torst
More wear is usually present on the non-piston pad in this design. Proper
disk brake maintenance on my bikes includes a complete cleaning and lubing
of the mounting bolts (slider pins) and caliper mounting holes as a minimum
service. Even a well lubed and cleaned caliper will drag just a bit. Add the
debris accumulated from riding, especially off-road, and the issue becomes
so apparent that the bolt/caliper maintenance must be done even before pad
changes are necessary.
Testing the free movement of the caliper housing on the bolt (slider pin)
bodies before and after reassembly will affirm whether the caliper slides on
the bolts smoothly or 'hangs up' a bit. Fine emery sanding material can be
used to smooth the bores and bolt bodies if needed, but an effort should be
made to minimize material removal as you do not want the allow the caliper
to aggravate the situation and/or become 'loose'. Oh, and clean the inside
of the boots too. The use of moly grease or, as I do, Mobile 1 synthetic
grease as I use, is a good idea. Lots of heat, ya know...
Mike Torst
Las Vegas
-----Original Message-----
From: Darryll "DrDoolittle" Blount [mailto:drdoolittle77630@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2004 2:36 PM
To: shirojiro1;
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] uneven brake pad wear?
--- shirojiro1 wrote:
> You might be having the caliper slider pins hanging
up they tend to stick after awhile i seperate mine
from the calipers every other pad change and lube them
with molybedenum grease this seems to help the pad
wear but its not unusual to have the inner pad wear
more than the outer.................................
Hi Folks,
>
> I just got back in from changing my front brake
> pads, and I'm a bit
> concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the
> piston
> side had plenty of material left, but the in-board
> one was pretty
> much ready to be changed.
>
> I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the
> braking
> performance has been great here in San Francisco
> with the hills
> and all.
>
> The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to
> be, and the
> little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as
> well.
>
> I'm a little perplexed about this. I would have
> expected that the
> pad on the piston side might wear a little faster,
> not the other way
> around.
>
> The only thing that I can think of is that the
> in-board pad isn't
> pulling away from the rotor when I let off the
> brakes. The rotor is
> mounted solidly, and there is no perceivable warp.
>
> The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I
> didn't put a mic
> on it or anything...).
>
> Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens.
>
> I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia
> here in SF
> didn't have Galfers.
>
> Anyone else have a similar experience?
>
> PS: Happy 4th of July!
>
> -S
uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 12:45 pm
by shirojiro1
Thanks all for the responses!
I'm glad that it's "normal" for the non-piston side pad to wear a
little more. I took my caliper off again and cleaned up the mounting
pins with some brake cleaner and wire wheel on my Dremel. Hopefully,
the wear will be more even with this set of pads.
FWIW, the EBC sintered pads seem to bite really well, even when I'm
using one finger on the front brake while it beds in. I purchased
the "R" series, IIRC.
thanks again!
-shin
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mike torst"
wrote:
> More wear is usually present on the non-piston pad in this design.
Proper
> disk brake maintenance on my bikes includes a complete cleaning and
lubing
> of the mounting bolts (slider pins) and caliper mounting holes as a
minimum
> service. Even a well lubed and cleaned caliper will drag just a
bit. Add the
> debris accumulated from riding, especially off-road, and the issue
becomes
> so apparent that the bolt/caliper maintenance must be done even
before pad
> changes are necessary.
>
> Testing the free movement of the caliper housing on the bolt
(slider pin)
> bodies before and after reassembly will affirm whether the caliper
slides on
> the bolts smoothly or 'hangs up' a bit. Fine emery sanding
material can be
> used to smooth the bores and bolt bodies if needed, but an effort
should be
> made to minimize material removal as you do not want the allow the
caliper
> to aggravate the situation and/or become 'loose'. Oh, and clean the
inside
> of the boots too. The use of moly grease or, as I do, Mobile 1
synthetic
> grease as I use, is a good idea. Lots of heat, ya know...
>
> Mike Torst
> Las Vegas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darryll "DrDoolittle" Blount [mailto:drdoolittle77630@y...]
> Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2004 2:36 PM
> To: shirojiro1;
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] uneven brake pad wear?
>
> --- shirojiro1 wrote:
> > You might be having the caliper slider pins hanging
> up they tend to stick after awhile i seperate mine
> from the calipers every other pad change and lube them
> with molybedenum grease this seems to help the pad
> wear but its not unusual to have the inner pad wear
> more than the outer.................................
> Hi Folks,
> >
> > I just got back in from changing my front brake
> > pads, and I'm a bit
> > concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the
> > piston
> > side had plenty of material left, but the in-board
> > one was pretty
> > much ready to be changed.
> >
> > I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the
> > braking
> > performance has been great here in San Francisco
> > with the hills
> > and all.
> >
> > The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to
> > be, and the
> > little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as
> > well.
> >
> > I'm a little perplexed about this. I would have
> > expected that the
> > pad on the piston side might wear a little faster,
> > not the other way
> > around.
> >
> > The only thing that I can think of is that the
> > in-board pad isn't
> > pulling away from the rotor when I let off the
> > brakes. The rotor is
> > mounted solidly, and there is no perceivable warp.
> >
> > The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I
> > didn't put a mic
> > on it or anything...).
> >
> > Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens.
> >
> > I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia
> > here in SF
> > didn't have Galfers.
> >
> > Anyone else have a similar experience?
> >
> > PS: Happy 4th of July!
> >
> > -S
uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2004 8:12 pm
by rm@richardmay.net
On Sun, 4 Jul 2004, shirojiro1 wrote:
>I just got back in from changing my front brake pads, and I'm a bit
>concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the piston side had
>plenty of material left, but the in-board one was pretty much ready to be
>changed.
Other than keeping the slider pins well-lubed with something like
Syl-Glide (hi-temp lithium complex won't work in this application), there
isn't much you can do. The OEM calipers are crap. I frequently retire my
KLR's pads in a similar condition and have yet to solve the problem.
Rear is just as bad, if not worse.
RM
uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2004 10:19 pm
by Mike Torst
A bit extreme RM - (and I like ya)
It is not just about making sure the pins/bracket orifices are smooth and
within clearance; it is also about ALIGNMENT of the caliper bolt/pins and
the use of a correct lubricant. I do not have issues with my 'now-rinsed'
A16 and it Galfer green / 320mm front rotor / SS lines, and DOT 4 system.
Richard, you know this - if the two bolt/pins are not true, the calipers
(floating is such a marketing word) are going to hang a bit.
The caliper should be tested for smooth movement on the pins (bolts) as
mounted to the mounting bracket. If it hangs, correct it - emery cloth (fine
grit). If severe, replace the caliper bolts (pins) or tweak them into
alignment (only if you know the know, etc...)
I am cheap, so I tweaked one bolt to provide the caliper housing orifice the
clearance to slide free in the range of operation relevant
Las Vegas
PS- rm - have a good trip in California this week. I will miss meeting you -
I'll be at Laguna Seca for the races, etc.
-----Original Message-----
From: rm@... [mailto:rm@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 6:13 PM
To: shirojiro1
Cc:
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] uneven brake pad wear?
On Sun, 4 Jul 2004, shirojiro1 wrote:
>I just got back in from changing my front brake pads, and I'm a bit
>concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the piston side had
>plenty of material left, but the in-board one was pretty much ready to be
>changed.
Other than keeping the slider pins well-lubed with something like
Syl-Glide (hi-temp lithium complex won't work in this application), there
isn't much you can do. The OEM calipers are crap. I frequently retire my
KLR's pads in a similar condition and have yet to solve the problem.
Rear is just as bad, if not worse.
RM
uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2004 10:29 pm
by kdxkawboy@aol.com
In a message dated 2004-07-06 6:21:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rm@... writes:
>
> Other than keeping the slider pins well-lubed with something like
> Syl-Glide (hi-temp lithium complex won't work in this application), there
> isn't much you can do. The OEM calipers are crap. I frequently retire my
> KLR's pads in a similar condition and have yet to solve the problem.
>
> Rear is just as bad, if not worse.
>
>
Ever since the started powder coating the backing plates I've noticed the
problem. One night watching American Chopper I think I finally put two and two
together. OCC builds the bike, tears it down, sends it out to be powder coated
and then parts don't fit together until they file/grind out the powder coating
out of the holes the bolts go through. So with the next set of aftermarket
pads I did the same and this set appear to be doing okay.
Pat
G'ville, Nv
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2004 12:08 am
by bigfatgreenbike
>Ever since the started powder coating the backing plates I've noticed the
>problem. One night watching American Chopper I think I finally put two and two
>together. OCC builds the bike, tears it down, sends it out to be powder coated
>and then parts don't fit together until they file/grind out the powder coating
>out of the holes the bolts go through. So with the next set of aftermarket
>pads I did the same and this set appear to be doing okay.
>
>
Smart people (and unfortunately I don't think the OCC guys belong to
Mensa) mask off bolt holes and threads before painting or
powdercoating. It's sort of a basic, and it's something that I had to
learn the hard way as well. But every single show they have something
that comes back bent or ill-fitting. Like the chromer drops all the
parts on the floor a couple times and then polishes out the scratches
(but doesn't straighten anything).
Smart people also might use a lathe to make axle spacers and internal
bearing spacers instead of cutting up steel pipe with a bandsaw on a
bike they're getting paid $60,000 or more to build.
I'll be impressed when they make something using aluminum that doesn't
need a 100cu/in motor to seem fast.
Devon
uneven brake pad wear?
Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2004 1:13 am
by kdxkawboy@aol.com
In a message dated 2004-07-06 10:18:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bigfatgreenbike@... writes:
>
> Smart people (and unfortunately I don't think the OCC guys belong to
> Mensa) mask off bolt holes and threads before painting or
> powdercoating. It's sort of a basic, and it's something that I had to
> learn the hard way as well. But every single show they have something
> that comes back bent or ill-fitting. Like the chromer drops all the
> parts on the floor a couple times and then polishes out the scratches
> (but doesn't straighten anything).
>
> Smart people also might use a lathe to make axle spacers and internal
> bearing spacers instead of cutting up steel pipe with a bandsaw on a
> bike they're getting paid $60,000 or more to build.
>
> I'll be impressed when they make something using aluminum that doesn't
> need a 100cu/in motor to seem fast.
>
> Devon
>
>
Would agree that the OCC guys aren't the brigtest lights on the block and I
still ain't convinced the dsyfunctionality isn't all show. But the kid that
does all the painting, he is a true artist. Without his paint jobs they would
just e another custom builder. You want to watch some real professional bike
builds the American Bike Buildoff is the better show. I've noticed that those guys
also have problems with the powder coating, the difference is they hog the
powder coating out as part of their prep work were Paulie needs to relearn the
lesson each time. Because powder coating is nothing more than a glazing process
for metal i;m wondering, how do you mask off powder coating so you don't get
runs during the backing process?
Pat
G'ville, Nv
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]