doohickey installation

[Conall O'Brien]

> So, for you other "kick-starters" of KLRs out there, what is the >starting procedure that produces the best results? I'm baffled at this >point >and my right foot is bruised. Don't want to sound rude but I need to hear >from KLR folks who actually kick-start their bikes and not theory from >someone who doesn't or who does/did on another bike. I know how to kick >start most bikes but not the KLR evidently. > Why do I even want to kick start the KLR? #1 It looks cool, #2 it's >part of motorcycling tradition (if you can start it, you can ride it!) #3 >it >might beat push starting while on a dirt trail someday #4 most modern >"bikers" don't even know what a kick start is! > >Chuck (limping around on a bashed right foot) Chiodini >

Chuck, I only kickstart my '93 when the engine is good and warm. I play around with the position of the kick starter until it feels right, then kick straight through with heavy duty boots. Sorry I can't elaborate more, the bike is winterized in New England at the moment. It does kick start though, never any problems. Conall _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail

[Judson D. Jones]

FWIW, this is the method I use for my XL600R, which also has an automatic compression release (although the design is different and so may not apply): 1. If the bike has been sitting for more than a day or so, turn the gas and open the float bowl drain for 5-10 seconds to get rid of moisture and get fresh fuel into the carb. 2. Bring the piston up on compression. Even with the auto CR, you should be able to feel it if you bring the piston up gently. 3. Ease the piston just past TDC. 4. Kick with a smooth stroke. Kicking hard and fast doesn't seem to work too well. 5. Repeat as necessary (heh, heh, heh). You will probably want to use the choke when cold. My XL doesn't seem to like it, but of course it's a whole different bike. The key is starting your kick with the piston just past TDC, even if you can kick pst compression without trouble (either because of an auto CR, or because the valves need adjusting).

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Conall O'Brien" wrote: > > > > > So, for you other "kick-starters" of KLRs out there, what is the > >starting procedure that produces the best results? I'm baffled at this > >point > >and my right foot is bruised. Don't want to sound rude but I need to hear > >from KLR folks who actually kick-start their bikes and not theory from > >someone who doesn't or who does/did on another bike. I know how to kick > >start most bikes but not the KLR evidently. > > Why do I even want to kick start the KLR? #1 It looks cool, #2 it's > >part of motorcycling tradition (if you can start it, you can ride it!) #3 > >it > >might beat push starting while on a dirt trail someday #4 most modern > >"bikers" don't even know what a kick start is! > > > >Chuck (limping around on a bashed right foot) Chiodini > > > > Chuck, > > I only kickstart my '93 when the engine is good and warm. > I play around with the position of the kick starter until it feels right, > then kick straight through with heavy duty boots. Sorry I can't elaborate > more, the bike is winterized in New England at the moment. It does kick > start though, never any problems. > > Conall > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail

[wingrj@aol.com]

In a message dated 11/27/02 07:21:08, chiodinc@... writes:

> So, for you other "kick-starters" of KLRs out there, what is the >starting procedure that produces the best results? I'm baffled at this point >and my right foot is bruised. Don't want to sound rude but I need to hear >from KLR folks who actually kick-start their bikes and not theory from >someone who doesn't or who does/did on another bike. I know how to kick >start most bikes but not the KLR evidently.

Yes, there is a procedure. I used to have the same problem kick starting as you protray. Kicking 15 - 20 time and maybe she will start. Then someone from this list laid out a routine - and she now starts on one kick. Every time. Using the kick lever, rotate through the cycle until you come to the compression stroke. Push gently on the lever until you feel the compresion release give. Its a soft spot as you push through the compresion. Once you feel the soft spot, stop. Bring the lever to the top, feel the engagement, and romp like hell. Viewed best in the text font 'Courier' ___ /___\ (!* *!) __\^-^/__ / ___ \ _/ |___| \_ (__\=/ \=/__) O=|_[ ]_|=O \.---./ | = = | | =.-.= | !_|| ||_! =|| ||= | | | | _____`-'_____ Wish I could go through life like I go through traffic

[Grateful Dave]

does anyone know where to get a kick start kit thet will fit a 2001 klr650?

[scalpel_wit]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Grateful Dave" wrote:

> does anyone know where to get a kick start kit thet will fit a 2001 > klr650?

I'm sure others can confirm this, but it is my understanding that Kawasaki changed the internal design of the gearbox some years ago making it impossible to include, or retrofit, a kickstarter. Doesn't make much sense for a "go everywhere, do everything, North Pole to Antarctica" adventure machine, huh.

[aboyandhisdawg]

the Clymer manual says that the starter idler gear was omited and two of the bolt holes inside the case are not tapped in the post-96 engines. others have siad that the new clutch basket doesn't allow the kickstarter to be fitted. however, if Clymer is correct, you could retrofit a kickstarter to any post-96. you will probably have to find a KLR 600 parts bike or engine to pull the parts from. i searched for about 4 months to get my parts. you will need a clutch holder tool to install a kickstarter, in addition to a "normal" set of tools... not sure how far apart you hve to tear into it to install the starter idler gear... haven't bothered to check but i *think* it requires splitting the cases. fixer KLR A1 #1187 (new and improved, now with kickstarter!) Lost Wages, NV --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Grateful Dave" wrote:

> does anyone know where to get a kick start kit thet will fit a 2001 > klr650?

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Wed, May 05, 2004 at 12:46:50AM -0000, scalpel_wit wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Grateful Dave" > wrote: > > does anyone know where to get a kick start kit thet will fit a 2001 > > klr650? > > I'm sure others can confirm this, but it is my understanding that > Kawasaki changed the internal design of the gearbox some years ago > making it impossible to include, or retrofit, a kickstarter. Doesn't > make much sense for a "go everywhere, do everything, North Pole to > Antarctica" adventure machine, huh.

Sure it does; the KACR makes the bike so easy to push-start that it's basically always possible in an emergency.

[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message----- > Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 23:46:11 -0400 > From: Thor Lancelot Simon > Subject: > > On Wed, May 05, 2004 at 12:46:50AM -0000, scalpel_wit wrote: > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Grateful Dave" > > wrote: > > > does anyone know where to get a kick start kit thet will fit a 2001 > > > klr650? > > > > I'm sure others can confirm this, but it is my understanding that > > Kawasaki changed the internal design of the gearbox some years ago > > making it impossible to include, or retrofit, a kickstarter. Doesn't > > make much sense for a "go everywhere, do everything, North Pole to > > Antarctica" adventure machine, huh. > > Sure it does; the KACR makes the bike so easy to push-start that it's > basically always possible in an emergency. >

Hey Thor, maybe it's always possible in NYC, but I have 10 bucks if you can manage it in a sand wash in the Mojave Desert. Cheers CA Stu

[aboyandhisdawg]

it's fine... the upgrade doohickies from Sagebrush and Eagle are both thicker than the factory unit, and the boss around the shaft is slightly thicker... no worries, it just seems to save another pass on the mill to make things "even", which might cause a stress raiser in the new part. FWIW, i think the end of the shaft was ~2.5 or 3mm below the face of my Eagle doohickey. can't attach anything to posts thru Yaho, if you wanted to share a pic, you cluld either upload it to the photos section, or upload it to a server (either from your ISP, or one of the "free" sites suh as Geocities, Angelfire, etc.), and share the link. however, most of the free sites need you to link to the page theimage is on, not the image itself. the price of "free" is banner or pop-up ads which they don't serve to the individual image, just the .html page. fixer KLR A1 #1187 Lost Wages, NV

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Charles Marsh" wrote: > When I recently replaced my doohickey with one from Jake, I noticed > the shaft did not come to the end of the doohickey. I checked the > tensioner chain and it seemed to be running true and Jakes doohickey > is thicker than the stock one. Did anyone else notice this or is > something wrong? I have pix showing this if anyone is interested. > Dont know how to attach to this message. > Chuck