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did i get the shaft?
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 7:58 pm
by wilkins5773
Hey folks, I have a 500 mi. service question. I took my new KLR back
to my local dealer last week to have the first valve check done.
They charged me $96 and said everything looked good. That's fine,
but here's the trick: At about 300 mi. I lost the two little screws
that attach the tabs on the back side of the right side fairing to
whatever they attach to. ( I can't remember without looking at it.)
So the fairing rattled when I rode the bike. As a roadside fix, I
put a couple of small zip-ties through the tabs until I could pick up
a couple of screws. Well, when I picked up the bike from the dealer
last week after they claimed to have checked the valves, the zip-ties
were still there. So here is my question. To check the valves,
wouldn't the mechanic have had to remove that right side fairing by
cutting my zip-ties, or would he more likely have unscrewed the top
of the fairing from the bottom of the gas tank, removed the tank by
itself, and left the right side fairing attached where it was to get
to the valves? Did I get ripped on my valve check? I always enjoy
reading the posts on this site and appreciate the information you
guys share.
Thanks, Steve from Graham, NC.
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 9:01 pm
by Jim
Monday, April 19, 2004, 8:58:02 PM, wilkins5773 wrote:
w> wouldn't the mechanic have had to remove that right side fairing by
w> cutting my zip-ties, or would he more likely have unscrewed the top
w> of the fairing from the bottom of the gas tank, removed the tank by
w> itself, and left the right side fairing attached where it was to get
w> to the valves? Did I get ripped on my valve check? I always enjoy
I would have to question a dealer, who on seeing the zip ties wouldn't
have replaced them with the correct screws, or at least mentioned it
when you picked up the bike and asked if you wanted two screws for
it...
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 9:42 pm
by frank@beatrous.org
I think you got screwed. I can't imagine how they could have removed the
tank without removing the side covers. The bolts that hold the seat on are
behind the side covers, and the bolts that hold the tank on are under the
seat.
FWIW, I called most of the Pittsburgh Kawasaki dealers on Saturday looking
for valve shims. Not a single one kept them in stock, which is a pretty
clear indication that they rarely, if ever, do valve adjustments on these
bikes.
I bought mine used with 4K miles on it. I just did the 6K valve
adjustment, and I'm almost certain that they were not checked at the 500
mile service. I don't think it's possible to get the valve cover off
without removing the upper engine mount bolt, and that bolt still had the
undisturbed red factory thread lock on it. At 6K, one exhaust valve was
.001'' below spec. The other three were at the low end of spec.
You should certainly ask the service manager for an explanation.
Frank
On Tue, 20 Apr 2004, wilkins5773 wrote:
> Hey folks, I have a 500 mi. service question. I took my new KLR back
> to my local dealer last week to have the first valve check done.
> They charged me $96 and said everything looked good. That's fine,
> but here's the trick: At about 300 mi. I lost the two little screws
> that attach the tabs on the back side of the right side fairing to
> whatever they attach to. ( I can't remember without looking at it.)
> So the fairing rattled when I rode the bike. As a roadside fix, I
> put a couple of small zip-ties through the tabs until I could pick up
> a couple of screws. Well, when I picked up the bike from the dealer
> last week after they claimed to have checked the valves, the zip-ties
> were still there. So here is my question. To check the valves,
> wouldn't the mechanic have had to remove that right side fairing by
> cutting my zip-ties, or would he more likely have unscrewed the top
> of the fairing from the bottom of the gas tank, removed the tank by
> itself, and left the right side fairing attached where it was to get
> to the valves? Did I get ripped on my valve check? I always enjoy
> reading the posts on this site and appreciate the information you
> guys share.
>
> Thanks, Steve from Graham, NC.
>
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 10:51 pm
by aboyandhisdawg
y'all's a fart smeller... er, smart feller!
stealerships are well known for NOT checking the valves. (some do, most
don't)
zip ties are fine for that repair, and most any hardware store will have small
bolts and nyloc nuts to fix it "mo betterer"
fixer
KLR A1 #1187
Lost Wages, NV
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "wilkins5773" wrote:
> Hey folks, I have a 500 mi. service question. I took my new KLR back
> to my local dealer last week to have the first valve check done.
> They charged me $96 and said everything looked good. That's fine,
> but here's the trick: At about 300 mi. I lost the two little screws
> that attach the tabs on the back side of the right side fairing to
> whatever they attach to. ( I can't remember without looking at it.)
> So the fairing rattled when I rode the bike. As a roadside fix, I
> put a couple of small zip-ties through the tabs until I could pick up
> a couple of screws. Well, when I picked up the bike from the dealer
> last week after they claimed to have checked the valves, the zip-ties
> were still there. So here is my question. To check the valves,
> wouldn't the mechanic have had to remove that right side fairing by
> cutting my zip-ties, or would he more likely have unscrewed the top
> of the fairing from the bottom of the gas tank, removed the tank by
> itself, and left the right side fairing attached where it was to get
> to the valves? Did I get ripped on my valve check? I always enjoy
> reading the posts on this site and appreciate the information you
> guys share.
>
> Thanks, Steve from Graham, NC.
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 5:08 am
by Martin Waters
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "wilkins5773" wrote:
> Hey folks, I have a 500 mi. service question. I took my new KLR
back
> to my local dealer last week to have the first valve check done.
> They charged me $96 and said everything looked good. That's fine,
> but here's the trick: At about 300 mi. I lost the two little screws
> that attach the tabs on the back side of the right side fairing to
> whatever they attach to. ( I can't remember without looking at it.)
> So the fairing rattled when I rode the bike. As a roadside fix, I
> put a couple of small zip-ties through the tabs until I could pick
up
> a couple of screws. Well, when I picked up the bike from the
dealer
> last week after they claimed to have checked the valves, the zip-
ties
> were still there. So here is my question. To check the valves,
> wouldn't the mechanic have had to remove that right side fairing by
> cutting my zip-ties, or would he more likely have unscrewed the top
> of the fairing from the bottom of the gas tank, removed the tank by
> itself, and left the right side fairing attached where it was to
get
> to the valves? Did I get ripped on my valve check? I always enjoy
> reading the posts on this site and appreciate the information you
> guys share.
>
> Thanks, Steve from Graham, NC.
I say you did. Though mechanics can probably get around taking off
the fairing(s) I would agree with the other poster that he would have
put a bolt in for you or at least have told you about the ties. The
top bolt securing the fairing to the rad IS hard to fasten. I think
on Mark's site he mentioned that someone simply notched out the tab
on the fairings, leaving the bolts loose, but in place, then just
slid the notch into the bolt and tightened it.
A couple of tips. I too think I got the shaft. When I checked my
valves at 5000 km, my left intake was under spec at .003. If they
had been done at my 800km checkup this valve would not have been so
tight. And I shouldn't have had to check them till 10,000 km. The
valve would have been burned out by then! THE MAIN GIVEAWAY.
Kawasaki uses a non drying silicon (very thin coat) on its valve
cover gasket on a new bike. When I popped the valve cover off guess
what....a fine bead of non-drying silicone was present. I went back
to the dealer that initially did my valves and they NEVER use this
material, they just put a thin film of oil on the gasket. They
screwed me. The service manager wasn't even that familiar with the
KLR's "shim/bucket" system, and the mechanic said they "generally" do
the valves on a KLR on the 800 km. checkup. Thanks guys. Gives me a
real feeling of comfort. Hope you enjoyed my $100.00.
To all newbies: if you get your valves done, DEMAND a summary of
what they found/did, i.e. initial readings, any adjustments and shims
changed. Then ask them what they did on the gasket. If you really
want to get them, mark a few of the bolts you KNOW they have to
remove. Also, my NEW dealer (who I trust 100%....he sells shims for
god's sake!!) recommends first valve adjustment at 5000 km.
Something to think about.
Screwed in Canada
Martin
A16/2002
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 5:16 am
by Guy B. Young II - COG Tech Ed
Martin,
The notch is cut into the inner-most fan bracket mount. That bolt is a bear to get back in if you don't.
Guy
A16
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Waters
Sent: Apr 20, 2004 6:07 AM
To:
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Did I get the shaft?
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "wilkins5773" wrote:
S-N-I-P
I think on Mark's site he mentioned that someone simply notched out the tab
on the fairings, leaving the bolts loose, but in place, then just
slid the notch into the bolt and tightened it.
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 5:18 am
by swampyankee45
Nobody likes it pointed out to them when they are a you-know-what.
Maybe you can explain to the dealer that you'll be needing that $96
back because you are now going to have to go and spend about $300 ON
METRIC TOOLS AND MANUALS AND CONSUMABLES. If you already have the
manual bring it with you with it bookmarked to the page about
adjusting valves. If you can get your loot back without them hating
you and you hating them it might come in handy later.
Plan on devoting most of a weekend to collecting the right gear,
reading the websites and then getting your hands dirty. Its not all
exactly what I can call "fun", but its not all bad either.
Also If you go to 1000 miles before the valves are adjusted I would
say there is a 99.9% chance you will be fine. Maybe you can find a
klrhead within 500 miles you could ride there do the valves and make
a friend.
Best wishes, Check back often, we want to know how you make out.
by the by, i would have made the same "error" you did, going to the
dealer, if i hadn't read so much on this list first. The folks here
through all the pasts posts make it abundantly clear that what
happened to you, has been, is, and will be the standard treatment.
Andy A-18 1880 miles
14 tooth CS and a TKC-80 boy howdy!
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "wilkins5773"
wrote:
> Hey folks, I have a 500 mi. service question. I took my new KLR
back
> to my local dealer last week to have the first valve check done.
> They charged me $96 and said everything looked good. That's fine,
> but here's the trick: At about 300 mi. I lost the two little
screws
> that attach the tabs on the back side of the right side fairing to
> whatever they attach to. ( I can't remember without looking at
it.)
> So the fairing rattled when I rode the bike. As a roadside fix, I
> put a couple of small zip-ties through the tabs until I could pick
up
> a couple of screws. Well, when I picked up the bike from the
dealer
> last week after they claimed to have checked the valves, the zip-
ties
> were still there. So here is my question. To check the valves,
> wouldn't the mechanic have had to remove that right side fairing
by
> cutting my zip-ties, or would he more likely have unscrewed the
top
> of the fairing from the bottom of the gas tank, removed the tank
by
> itself, and left the right side fairing attached where it was to
get
> to the valves? Did I get ripped on my valve check? I always
enjoy
> reading the posts on this site and appreciate the information you
> guys share.
>
> Thanks, Steve from Graham, NC.
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 5:21 am
by dooden
$96 would have bought a nice inch pound torque wrench, needed shims,
oil & filter and feeler gauge.
Unless they or somebody else has found a way to remove the tank with
the shrouds attached ? I have always had to remove the shrouds to get
the tank off. At least it without looking only made sense to me.
Did he give you the measurements taken during the adjustment ?
Ask them for it so you can record if for future reference.
Dooden
A15 Green Ape
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "wilkins5773" wrote:
> Hey folks, I have a 500 mi. service question. I took my new KLR back
> to my local dealer last week to have the first valve check done.
> They charged me $96 and said everything looked good. That's fine,
> but here's the trick: At about 300 mi. I lost the two little screws
> that attach the tabs on the back side of the right side fairing to
> whatever they attach to. ( I can't remember without looking at it.)
> So the fairing rattled when I rode the bike. As a roadside fix, I
> put a couple of small zip-ties through the tabs until I could pick up
> a couple of screws. Well, when I picked up the bike from the dealer
> last week after they claimed to have checked the valves, the zip-ties
> were still there. So here is my question. To check the valves,
> wouldn't the mechanic have had to remove that right side fairing by
> cutting my zip-ties, or would he more likely have unscrewed the top
> of the fairing from the bottom of the gas tank, removed the tank by
> itself, and left the right side fairing attached where it was to get
> to the valves? Did I get ripped on my valve check? I always enjoy
> reading the posts on this site and appreciate the information you
> guys share.
>
> Thanks, Steve from Graham, NC.
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 5:36 am
by Guy B. Young II - COG Tech Ed
Ya' know, I was thinking about this was and was curious just what the going rate was for doing a first time service on the bike WITH a valve adjustment, or even just a valve adjustment alone. I know the Concours can be in the $200+ range. Admittedly, it's a little more time consuming considering all of the 'stuff' that has to come off, but still......
$96 may not be that far out of line for a first time without the valves. Original post didn't mention if that included oil and filter?
And yes, the tank can be removed with the shrouds in place - did it this past week. My left shroud is zipped in place at the front and I didn't feel like messin' with them. The top screws have to be removed, of course, but once out the shrouds can be 'unplugged' from the bottom and flopped over out of the way.
Those of you who don't do your own service and rely on a dealer, and absolutely know that the valves were done by them, what have you been paying for such a service?
Guy
A16
did i get the shaft?
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 9:16 am
by Doug Herr
On Tue, 20 Apr 2004, Guy B. Young II - COG Tech Ed wrote:
> Those of you who don't do your own service and rely on a
> dealer, and absolutely know that the valves were done by them,
> what have you been paying for such a service?
I did the first service on my and my wife's bikes due to the
price. The dealer we got them from wanted something close to
$300 each. We called another dealer and it was about $100 each
so I asked why it was so much better then this other dealer and I
was told that the valve adjustment was listed as a first service
item but then it was not really needed.
Well, that was enough for me. I did it myself and found that one
of the two bikes needed two shims replaced/adjusted.
These prices are from my poor memory and are in the San Francisco
bay area of California.
--
Doug Herr
doug@...