--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "dlars356" wrote:
> I use thick rubber electrical tape for rim strips on my mountain
> bike; anyone use it for motorcycle rims?
>
> Dave
> A9, University Place, WA
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:13:39 -0000
From: "James L. Miller Jr."
Subject: Re: Idle screw, what I've found/done. final
By the way the front wheel is having problems (staying on the ground)
I'd say it's done. Instead of my normal 3.5 mile rt to work, I took
the loop. 5 miles 2 lane, 10 miles 4 lane, 10 miles 2 lane. Bike
does just fine. Starts instantly after shutting off, no hesitation,
no surge at speed and the temp didn't get above 1/3 (It is 41F
outside) I'll work with the idle screw, but I thing we got it.
Thanks!
millerized
(in the 70s this weekend, and I might have to work!)
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "James L. Miller Jr."
wrote:
> What I started with: Replaced stock idle screw with on of those
> handy dandy brass knurled easy adjust ones. Screw was installed at
> same setting as stock one (3+ turns). Shi, I mean crappy idle,
hard
> starting, ran VERY cold. Hot starts REALLY sucked.
> OK, here's what I've found: No leaks around anything, clamps and
> screws all tight. The needle was on the 2nd from the bottom (#4
> slot). The main jet was a 140. The enrichener seemed to be
> partially out of the socket, possibly being "stuck on" (yeah, I
> broke it a long time ago). Absolutely
no sediment or water in
> the bowl, float level set seems fine, no filter installed. Slide
is
> VERY worn on the cylinder side, to the point of having grooves in
it
> from the venturi, but doesn't bind on anything going up or down.
> What I did. Kept the needle on the #4 slot, but changed the main
> jet to the 150 that was in the kit. (The consensus was that I was
> running too lean at speed, and too rich at idle to 1/2. Main jet
> was figured to be the problem being too small, solution being to
> raise needle or go up one on the main. Since I had an larger main
> laying around, well....) Enrichener was "fixed" so it stays in the
> socket like it's supposed to. Idle screw was taken to 2 turn off
> seat.
> Cold, it starts right up, with enrichener on, but not off. It
> idles just fine as it warms up, requiring enrichener for only a few
> seconds. Getting more than several hundred yards out of it before
I
> got chilled (sweating in a heated garage, riding outside in
> 40something temps without a jacket) it seems to run, idle and
> accelerate just fine. Hot starts are "touch of the button" and
> instantaneous. Again, with idle just fine.
> I'll wind it out tomorrow morning and report back. Temps should
> be chilly, but not cold enough to hide any engine heat problems
> should they show themselves. But, for time being, problem seems to
> be solved. If there are any other findings, I'll report and
> describe.
> A hearty thanks to all who participated in the solution. The
> first beer is on me. The second one you'll have to drink from the
> bottle.
> millerized
> (once again saved from stupitity by the collective!)
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 13:06:12 -0000
From: "Glen"
Subject: whos site is this?
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~wdean/klr650.html
came across it today anyone out there?
glenski
a14
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 13:31:27 -0000
From: "Dooden"
Subject: Re: whos site is this?
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Glen" wrote:
>
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~wdean/klr650.html
>
> came across it today anyone out there?
>
> glenski
> a14
Dunno, but pretty damn fair thoughts on the KLR to me.
Love this bike..
Dooden
A15 Green Ape (with a "Crash Test Dummy" pad on the handlebars)
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 13:34:13 -0000
From: "Martin Waters"
Subject: RE: Handlebar Vibes
Forget the foams, gels and other gukky things that you could pour
into your bars. Go to your local gun store and get 7 1/2 grade lead
shot and pour it into the left side of your bars till the bars are
full. Tilt your bike as you do it. The balls find there own way in
(they roll...they are round like BB's) They don't have to be
compressed. If your bike is anything like mine (A16 '02) you will get
an AMAZING improvement in vibration dampening for about $3.00. If
you live near Burlington, Ontario I have lots to give away. I had to
buy the minimum size of 25 pounds
Hmmm....maybe I could take up
hunting.
Martin in Canada
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:46:08 -0000
From: "bentwall2003"
Subject: KLR Rear Shock rebuild
Please send any info/websites on rebuilding KLR650 rear shocks. Mine
is bouncing me down the trail and I cannot afford a new one.
Thanks,
Keith
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 14:04:58 -0000
From: "carlsonjustin"
Subject: New Boston MA rider
I just moved up to Boston from NYC. Are there any riders up in Boston
to offroad with once I get my spark arrester back on?
Justin
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 14:38:37 -0000
From: "Glen"
Subject: Fork Seal Tools?
the dealer just called and my fork seals (oil) are in and i am
thinking i should do the work myself on them, since i have never
been happy with their work and they charge a fortune. the question
is what kinda tools do i need other than a socket set and
wrenches?? since that is all that i have but i think the money
would be better spent on tools than paying them the labour. i know
i will need some fork oil and what else i am sure there are lots of
people out there who have done it. and approximately how much time
should i expect it to take since i have never done it before?
thanks in advance
glenski - wore out fork seals learnin to wheelie
a14
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 08:45:13 -0600
From: "Randy Phillips"
Subject: Re: Tires - Stumped?
Steve - Thanks for the TKC80, tire - info.
Much appreciated.
Randy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 15:07:55 +0100
From: "Mark Gray"
Subject: Fork oil - European model
Hello,
Could anyone give me information on the quantity and specification of oil
required after a complete stripdown of the front forks. The bike is a 96
KLR650C - 41 mm forks.
Thanks.
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself with cool new emoticons
http://www.msn.co.uk/specials/myemo
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 08:06:37 -0700
From: imperial-4776@...
Subject: Plastic Tanks ( illegal ? )
Anyone ever had anything like this happen to them, because you have a
plastic tank on your bike ?
http://www.omra-online.org/2004/legalnews_09_2004.htm
Dave
Oregon
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:37:58 -0400
From: "Andre Fiedler"
Subject: Remaining MX accessories still for sale
FYI, I still have the following items for sale if anyone is interested:
- Aerostitch Darien Hi-Viz Yellow Jacket (Large): $ 325 ($420 new) -
Aerostitch Darien Padded Pants (Black, 32 Long): $ 200 (300 new) -
Shoei RF 800 Full Face Helmet with tinted & clear lenses (Small): $ 150
($430 new) - Shoei Motocross Helmet with Clear Goggles (Small): $ $ 75
($ 200 new) - MSR Motocross Chest Protector/Deflector: $ 30 ($ 75 new)
- Aluminum Motocross Center Stand: $ 35 ($ 65 new) All items are in
Like-New Condition with very minimal usage. Pricing do not include
shipping.email me off-list if interested.Andre FiedlerColorado Springs,
COafiedler@...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:51:59 -0400
From: Devon
Subject: Re: whos site is this?
Don't know, but at least I don't feel... so... alone.... anymore (sob!).
http://xd8ad0695.ip.e-nt.net/klr/costco_run2.jpg
Devon
glenski_31@... wrote:
>
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~wdean/klr650.html
>
>came across it today anyone out there?
>
>glenski
>a14
>
>
>
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 15:58:47 -0000
From: "kelpo2001"
Subject: Re: Handlebar Vibes
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Waters"
wrote:
> Forget the foams, gels and other gukky things that you could pour
> into your bars. Go to your local gun store and get 7 1/2 grade
lead
> shot and pour it into the left side of your bars till the bars are
> full. Tilt your bike as you do it. The balls find there own way
in
> (they roll...they are round like BB's) They don't have to be
> compressed. If your bike is anything like mine (A16 '02) you will
get
> an AMAZING improvement in vibration dampening for about $3.00. If
> you live near Burlington, Ontario I have lots to give away. I had
to
> buy the minimum size of 25 pounds
Hmmm....maybe I could take
up
> hunting.
> Martin in Canada
Last year I put some 50 cal. muzzle loader lead balls into my handle
bars and they helped with the vibration. This year I removed the
lead balls when I installed the Tusk handguards and wind deflectors
made from a 5 gal. plastic oil pail. Lead is real heavy and the KLR
is already top heavy. I also intalled the anti-vibration mirror
mounts (the only chrome parts on my bike) from JC Whitney. This
combination of mods to the handlebar seems to have really helped
with the vibration on my bike. No more throttle hand numbness. The
mirrors are actually useable now and have a better view angle
because they are about an inch higher.
I suspect that my homemade wind guards have something to do with the
reduced vibration at highway speeds because they are considerably
larger than the OEM guards and so have a larger flat plate
aerodynamic drag that exerts a vibration absorbing force on the bar
ends at speed. They are sure more effective than the OEMs and in my
humble opinion better looking. You can see pics of them at this link
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/kelpo2001
Richard Korpela
A15
Chapleau, ON
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:57:51 -0400
From: "Andre Fiedler"
Subject: 2001 KLR and aftermarket upgrades/accessories for sale
My 2001 KLR with only 1850 miles on it is still for sale,. It is
located in Colorado SpringsIf interested in certain of the upgrade parts
separately, please contact me and we can discuss pricing. - Both
Factory Service Manuals- Kawasaki Cordura Tank, Tail and
Saddlebags- Happy Trails Luggage Rack- 2 Givi E36 Cases
& 1 Givi E45 Hard Shell Case- Radiator Guard- Master
Cylinder Brake Fluid Reservoir Guard- Skid Plate-
Centerstand (Dual Star)- Engine Case Guard/Highway "Cruiser"
Pegs- IMS Foot Pegs- Happy Trails K9 Front Fork Brace-
"Shark Fin" Rear Brake Protector- Folding shift Lever (+
spare lever)- Gel Hand Grips- IMS Rally Pro HandGuards-
Battery Voltmeter- Hi Wattage Headlight Bulb-
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug- Battery Tender Junior trickle charger
(fully sealed unit)- Fabric Full Motorcycle Cover- Spare
Front & Rear Tubes, Titanium Tire Irons- All receipts &
maintenance records- Oil, Filter, Coolant & both brake fluids
changed in November 2003 I am asking $ 4995 for the complete bike. I
added up the cost of the accessories and they alone come to about $
1900. Contact me at afiedler@....
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:16:27 EDT
From: Mss1389@...
Subject: Best Aluminum Panniers?
Can all KLR-650 riders who have or have used Aluminum Side Panniers Boxes
tell me what brand names you prefer and why. I'm looking to purchase some for my
2004 KLR-650 and need some good Honest Input for my decision. They have to be
secure and watertight I've been looking at Jesse and Happy Trails thanks for
any and all Input.
Mark S.
Milton, WA.
A-18
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:20:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: rm@...
Subject: Re: Re: Idle Screw replacement
On Wed, 14 Apr 2004, thad_carey wrote:
>I'm not sure I'd want an overly rich idle circuit (at least not one rich
>enough to affect operating temps to any degree) because it seems it would
>affect that critical "right off idle" response in a negative way. This
>would surely be noticeable in technical off road situations where I like
>a crisp, clean response throughout the throttle range.
My throttle-response is buttery smooth with the screw at 3 turns out. I
went 3 turns on my CV-carbed ZR-7 and got similar results. The stock
settings on both bikes made the throttle like a on-off switch near idle.
>I would also think this be a real problem as altitude increased--a place
>where I have always been impressed with the relative performance of my
>KLRs compared to other bikes and especially those with conventional
>slide/needle carbs.
With the rich idle mixture, the idle slows down at high altitude.
Throttle response is still good.
RM
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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:26:01 -0400
From: Devon
Subject: Re: Fork oil - European model
gray184@... wrote:
>Hello,
>Could anyone give me information on the quantity and specification of oil
>required after a complete stripdown of the front forks. The bike is a 96
>KLR650C - 41 mm forks.
>
The quantity is measured by level, not by volume. After the seals are
replaced and the forks are reassembled (but before you put the springs
and caps back on), bottom each fork completely, pour oil in until it's
about 170mm from the top, then move the forks through the stroke several
times to clear any air. Then remeasure, and top up. The level varies on
rider preference- higher level = more bottoming resistance. 170mm is a
decent start. Make sure both forks are even.
As for the tools, if you aren't going to try the air pressure method,
then you'll need to buy or make a damper rod holder.
http://www.devonjarvisphoto.com/posted/emulators/damper_rod_holder_construction.html
Devon
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 16:39:19 -0000
From: "J.A. Sherlock"
Subject: NKLR: Posting Problems
Hi all,
I have SBCYahoo internet access. I have been having problems posting
from my e-mail account and was wondering if anyone else has had this
problem, or has any ideas. I can post directly from the group site,
usually. Yet, when I try to send a message via my e-mail account, it
=== message truncated ===
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
