Wilsons Sandbox

Updated info. It looks like the clutch bearings are free, but judging by roughness and heat marks the friction was at the two spacers between the starter ring gear and the engine sprocket. There is also some evidence of rubbing on the front washer between the starter ring gear and the magneto flywheel thingee. Help! - Lee

----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Dickinson" To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 3:17 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Doohickey Installatin Snafu > > Gang > > I must have done something wrong during a doohickey install. The one way > (overrunning) bearings in the starter gear will intermittently catch and > stall the motor - actually more like sieze the motor. What have I done > wrong? I am pulling the cover off this evening to see if I've trashed > anything. > > Lee > > A7 - Colbert, GA USA > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

Lee, Had the same horrible crap happen to me after doing the doohickey upgrade on my '87. I bought a parts motor and swapped out the rotor, starter gear, and spacers. So the '87 ran fine after that. IMHO, the cause of the damage is putting the rotor/starter ring gear together DRY -as in anything less than positively dripping wet with oil. I'm sure the '87 was clean as could be -and DRY, when I put it back together. And that lack of lubrication on a part of the engine that's only splash lubricated was the cause of the problem. The EOM manual specifies moly-lube or some other grease component to be used as lube for these parts with during assembly. Having done a dozen or more DH upgrades, I now make sure every one of these goes together with enough oil to be DRIPPING WET. Then make sure the tapered end of the shaft and it's mating surface inside the rotor are wiped dry before bolting things together (the woodruff key is for alignment -and the friction fit of the tapered parts keeps the two turning in unison). Again, IMHO, this needs to be documented on the how-to sites. Mark, Devon, any thoughts on this? Finally, I sent my old rotor/starter ring gear to a local machine shop to see what could be done to clean up the surfaces. No word yet on how salvageable it may be. Jake had offered to check it out for me, but I opted for a local shop 'cause I was too lazy to ship the thing. Thanks! MarkB --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Dickinson" wrote:

> Updated info. It looks like the clutch bearings are free, but

judging by

> roughness and heat marks the friction was at the two spacers

between the

> starter ring gear and the engine sprocket. There is also some

evidence of

> rubbing on the front washer between the starter ring gear and the

magneto

> flywheel thingee. > > Help! - Lee > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lee Dickinson" > To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 3:17 PM > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Doohickey Installatin Snafu > > > > > > Gang > > > > I must have done something wrong during a doohickey install. The

one way

> > (overrunning) bearings in the starter gear will intermittently

catch and

> > stall the motor - actually more like sieze the motor. What have

I done

> > wrong? I am pulling the cover off this evening to see if I've

trashed

> > anything. > > > > Lee > > > > A7 - Colbert, GA USA > > > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List

FAQ

> courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > >

MBAKARICH@... wrote:

> Having done a >dozen or more DH upgrades, I now make sure every one of these goes >together with enough oil to be DRIPPING WET. Then make sure the >tapered end of the shaft and it's mating surface inside the rotor are >wiped dry before bolting things together (the woodruff key is for >alignment -and the friction fit of the tapered parts keeps the two >turning in unison). > >Again, IMHO, this needs to be documented on the how-to sites. >Mark, Devon, any thoughts on this? > >

Well, the first thing that somes to mind is anytime you assemble anything inside an engine, you slather fresh oil on it. "Assembly lube", sometimes people will use the STP viscosity-restoring goo as assembly lube because it stays put but still blends in with the oil when you start it up. It didn't occur to me to mention it, I either didn't wipe everything off or I poured more oil on. I never assembled anything dry. Are people changing valve shims and not pouring oil on the cam bearing surfaces before bolting down the caps? -- Devon Brooklyn, NY A15-Z '01 KLR650 '81 SR500 cafe racer "The truth's not too popular these days....." Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man

> It didn't occur to me to mention it, I either didn't wipe everything off > or I poured more oil on. I never assembled anything dry. Are people > changing valve shims and not pouring oil on the cam bearing surfaces > before bolting down the caps?

I'm guilty of assuming that people would know to reassemble wet. I guess that's why I would suck as an instructor. Good point, I'll have to add that to the To-Do list... Mark --------------------------------------- KLR650 Motorcycle Website: http://klr6500.tripod.com/

> It didn't occur to me to mention it, I either didn't wipe

everything off

> or I poured more oil on. I never assembled anything dry. Are

people

> changing valve shims and not pouring oil on the cam bearing

surfaces

> before bolting down the caps?

Andy

> It didn't occur to me to mention it...

Well OK, I feel like an idiot. The instructions seemed so comprehensive in giving every minute detail, that I thought they actually WERE comprehensive. Instead of widespread splash lubrication, some motors have innovations like pressure lubrication. Some companies that build motors have enough knowledge of metallurgy to not put two items (like the spacers) in sliding contact that are made of identical materials. Even a hardness difference between the two can help prevent galling. I know what assembly lube and wet assembly are, I just missed that these parts called "spacers" were in sliding contact with one another. This is my first Kawasaki and I am not in sync with their engineering practices. Most of my M/C wrenching is on BMW's where they haul the damned starter gear out of the way rather than slip it around on a bunch of splash lubricated spacers and one-way bearings. I'll go sit in the corner. Thanks for helping a new guy learn the Kawasaki. Lee - Colbert ,GA USA

At 11:36 PM -0500 3/19/04, bigfatgreenbike wrote:

>It didn't occur to me to mention it, I either didn't wipe everything off >or I poured more oil on. I never assembled anything dry. Are people >changing valve shims and not pouring oil on the cam bearing surfaces >before bolting down the caps?

Like grandma with the gravy on my Thanksgiving turkey, I lovingly ladle fresh oil on and the cam bearings and cam lobes. Mark http://www.reelrider.com

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:

> At 11:36 PM -0500 3/19/04, bigfatgreenbike wrote: > >It didn't occur to me to mention it, I either didn't wipe

everything off

> >or I poured more oil on. I never assembled anything dry. Are people > >changing valve shims and not pouring oil on the cam bearing

surfaces

> >before bolting down the caps? > > Like grandma with the gravy on my Thanksgiving turkey, I lovingly > ladle fresh oil on and the cam bearings and cam lobes. > > Mark > http://www.reelrider.com

I am just in the process of checking and adjusting my valves for the first time. I'm using a combination of the Clymer manual and Mark's KLR Pages proceedure as my mentors. The Clymer manual advises to "lubricate parts with engine oil during assembly". I'll remember to do that when I reassemble the parts after getting the 3 new shims that will be needed. Since i am not an experienced mechanic every bit of advice from you guys is appreciated. Richard Korpela A15 Chapleau, ON

> I am just in the process of checking and adjusting my valves for the > first time. I'm using a combination of the Clymer manual and Mark's > KLR Pages proceedure as my mentors. The Clymer manual advises > to "lubricate parts with engine oil during assembly". I'll remember > to do that when I reassemble the parts after getting the 3 new shims > that will be needed. Since i am not an experienced mechanic every bit > of advice from you guys is appreciated.

That valve adjustment procedure has been tweaked over the past couple years with the input of a number of listers. It's accurate, but needs to have the thing about the oil added, which I'm actually doing right now... Mark --------------------------------------- KLR650 Motorcycle Website: http://klr6500.tripod.com/