Wilsons Sandbox

Hi, I've been lurking on the list for a while now, drinking in the wealth of knowledge that's available. I was looking to buy a low mileage KLR 650 missed out on a couple so took the plunge yesterday and bought one of the last remaining 2002 models Kawasaki aren't importing them to the UK anymore not enough sales apparently. I pick the bike up at the weekend and needless to say I have some questions somebody may be able to help me with. 1) What are the differences between the US model and the European/UK model from what I can see, spark arrester and emissions equipment is a lot less/non-existent on UK models is there anything else? This being a brand new bike, what are peoples views on manufacturer's run-in recommendations verses Motoman's advice http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 2) Has anyone any idea where I can get a magnetic sump/drain plug for the KLR in the UK I believe it's a 12mm thread widely available in the US, but have trawled the Net and can't track one down over here. Look forward to hearing your thoughts and thanks to everyone for making this such a helpful and interesting list. All the best Geoff Perth, Scotland, UK

infiniteplayer2000 wrote:

> > 1) What are the differences between the US model and the > European/UK model from what I can see, spark arrester and > emissions equipment is a lot less/non-existent on UK models is > there anything else?

I would be suprised that the UK bikes wouldn't have a spark arrestor, it just wouldn't necessarily be USFS approved. Only CA bikes have the emissions equipment, the other 49 state models are just jetted a bit too lean. The C model seems to have a fork-mounted fairing, smaller fuel tank, and I believe different (better?) front rotor and caliper. The A model has alloy rims and swingarm, and the C has steel.

> This being a brand new bike, what are peoples views on > manufacturer's run-in recommendations verses Motoman's advice > > > http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I've heard similar advice from a lot of other people, including a buddy who rebuilds Brit bike motors as a business. I've sampled his work first hand, and it makes me believe him (never knew a single-carb 650 BSA motor could be so damn strong). The trick seems to be lots of heat cycles, IE thrash it for 5 minutes, let it cool completely. Ride it (achieving full throttle and near redline) for 10 minutes, let it cool completely. Change the oil. Ride it again and let it cool, building up to 30 minute and hour runs. I broke in my KLR according to manufacturer instructions, and it definitely burns a bit of oil at highway speeds ('01, 23,000mi). The next new vehicle I get I will try the Motoman instructions. Also, the fact that many bikes are dynoed at full throttle on the assembly line makes me question the 4000rpm break-in limit.

> 2) Has anyone any idea where I can get a magnetic sump/drain > plug for the KLR in the UK I believe it's a 12mm thread > widely > available in the US, but have trawled the Net and can't track one > down over here. >

Buy one online here and have it mailed to you. I used to buy parts from Germany for my SR500, it was actually pretty convenient. At least in the US, even Kawi dealers don't stock KLR parts. We have to mail order almost everything anyway. Short of that, take your bolt to a dealer and see what matches up. You should change the oil the bike came with before the 500mi service anyway. Also, if you have the valves set to the outside of the spec at the 500mi service, they may not need adjustment again for 10,000 or 20,000 mi. I just had to adjust mine for the second time at 23,000mi, the first was at 733mi. Devon Brooklyn A15-Z -- "It's a troublesome world, all the people who are in it, are troubled with troubles almost every minute" Dr. Seuss

FWIW, I did my "new" bike break in like the little sticker told me to. After the engine got rebuilt after my "countershaft oil seal" incident, I ran the living piss out of it after I got it back together. The power difference is very noticable, and I'm pretty sure it's not because of the extra 7cc of engine. I ran it like hell, cause it was my work and I wanted to see if it would hold together, and probably not because I wanted to break it in. That method had been used by my dad in the years before I was born. "Run it like you're gonna run it". Besides, how are they gonna know that you over reved the engine during the break in period? Even if it did blow up on you, which probably won't happen, it's still under warranty for the first year. Just my opinion, I might be wrong millerized --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "infiniteplayer2000" wrote:

> Hi, > > I've been lurking on the list for a while now, drinking in the > wealth of knowledge that's available. > > I was looking to buy a low mileage KLR 650 missed out on a > couple > so took the plunge yesterday and bought one of the last remaining > 2002 models Kawasaki aren't importing them to the UK > anymore not > enough sales apparently. > > I pick the bike up at the weekend and needless to say I have some > questions somebody may be able to help me with. > > 1) What are the differences between the US model and the > European/UK model from what I can see, spark arrester and > emissions equipment is a lot less/non-existent on UK models is > there anything else? > > This being a brand new bike, what are peoples views on > manufacturer's run-in recommendations verses Motoman's advice > > > http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm > > > 2) Has anyone any idea where I can get a magnetic sump/drain > plug for the KLR in the UK I believe it's a 12mm thread > widely > available in the US, but have trawled the Net and can't track one > down over here. > > Look forward to hearing your thoughts and thanks to everyone for > making this such a helpful and interesting list. > > All the best > > Geoff > > Perth, Scotland, UK

Hi, I've been lurking on the list for a while now, drinking in the wealth of knowledge that's available. I was looking to buy a low mileage KLR 650 missed out on a couple so took the plunge yesterday and bought one of the last remaining 2002 models Kawasaki aren't importing them to the UK anymore not enough sales apparently. I pick the bike up at the weekend and needless to say I have some questions somebody may be able to help me with. 1) What are the differences between the US model and the European/UK model from what I can see, spark arrester and emissions equipment is a lot less/non-existent on UK models is there anything else? This being a brand new bike, what are peoples views on manufacturer's run-in recommendations verses Motoman's advice http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 2) Has anyone any idea where I can get a magnetic sump/drain plug for the KLR in the UK I believe it's a 12mm thread widely available in the US, but have trawled the Net and can't track one down over here. Look forward to hearing your thoughts and thanks to everyone for making this such a helpful and interesting list. All the best Geoff Perth, Scotland, UK

Hi, I've been lurking on the list for a while now, drinking in the wealth of knowledge that's available. I was looking to buy a low mileage KLR 650 missed out on a couple so took the plunge yesterday and bought one of the last remaining 2002 models Kawasaki aren't importing them to the UK anymore not enough sales apparently. I pick the bike up at the weekend and needless to say I have some questions somebody may be able to help me with. 1) What are the differences between the US model and the European/UK model from what I can see, spark arrester and emissions equipment is a lot less/non-existent on UK models is there anything else? 2) This being a brand new bike, what are peoples views on manufacturer's run-in recommendations verses Motoman's advice http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 3) Has anyone any idea where I can get a magnetic sump/drain plug for the KLR in the UK I believe it's a 12mm thread widely available in the US, but have trawled the Net and can't track one down over here. Look forward to hearing your thoughts and thanks to everyone for making this such a helpful and interesting list. All the best Geoff Perth, Scotland, UK

Hi, I've been lurking on the list for a while now, drinking in the wealth of knowledge that's available. I was looking to buy a low mileage KLR 650 - missed out on a couple - so took the plunge yesterday and bought one of the last remaining 2002 models - Kawasaki aren't importing them to the UK anymore - not enough sales apparently. I pick the bike up at the weekend and needless to say I have some questions somebody may be able to help me with. 1) What are the differences between the US model and the European/UK model - from what I can see, spark arrester and emissions equipment is a lot less/non-existent on UK models - is there anything else? This being a brand new bike, what are peoples views on manufacturer's run-in recommendations verses Motoman's advice - http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 2) Has anyone any idea where I can get a magnetic sump/drain plug for the KLR in the UK - I believe it's a 12mm thread - widely available in the US, but have trawled the Net and can't track one down over here. Look forward to hearing your thoughts and thanks to everyone for making this such a helpful and interesting list. All the best Geoff Perth, Scotland, UK

Hi Geoff, I have a 2002 KL650-C8 (The European KLR650) This is the diff's I have found between the -C and -A models. (There are probably more) 1. Better breaks. I can make stoppies with my two pot breaks. (I think rear is the same as US) (BTW. Stoppies hurt like hell the first couple of time and usualy have to be sorted out by a doc. Make sure your HMO is valid if you plan on trying.) 2. Different rear subframe. Has the mounting for the rear break master cylinder welded to the subframe. Not a bolt on aluminium part like the US version. Most other stuff is the same. 3. Better front forks 41mm with pretty stiff spring. No adjustment what so ever but works OK. 4. No springs for the fotpegs. If they fold up, the stay up. 5. Smaller gas tank (14litre). 6. Different styling. (Gastank, light, saddle and whole rear) Looks hotter then the -A version. (I think) 7. Dont know if this is the same on the US version... "Made in Thailand" sticker on bike. 8. Rear tire made from butter. Good grip, but spent after 300km. 9. No tach. 10. No temp gauge, only light. 11. The speedo shows correct speed! 12. The luggage rack will only hold 3kg. The factory says... 13. Better engine guard. Welded steel pipe and plate construction. 14. Steel rims. 15. Wierd-ass emission control system where the idle mixture is controlled by engine heat! Look strange... Will try to get some pictures up. I got the KLR mainly for the big gas tank and that I did not get. (It said 23 litre in the miss printed sales papers). Changes I have made to my bike so far: Just a new 14 tooth front sprocket. (From deamon tweeks). A must have item i think. 15 tooth made the bike amazingly weak and booring. What I will change: New exhaust. Now it sound like a daxhound with astma. (and runs like one, my old XT500 was faster) Remove the kickstand/start breaker. Remove "clutch" start breaker. Change the "doohickey" (If I ever get the replacement one) What I might do: Change the carb for the Mikuni HS40 I have lying around from an old harley project. Get a new rear shock (Ohlins) and a aluminium JMC swingarm (https://www.swingarm.com/). Oh, yes! Research retrofitting an older clutch basket to get a kickstart on the bike. Problems I have had: Oil plug. The thread in the engine case was damaged. I spend 30min trying to get the threads to catch before I went and put the plug in the lathe. I made a 30deg angle on the bolt and now it goes in straight away. Oil consumption is a bit much.... The KLR (for me) is an OK use bike. Its ok back ond forth to the store and work good for long dirt roads. Its probably the weakest thumper I have owned and needs the clutch to wheelie in first gear. Hopefully this will be sorted by a new exhaust and carb. The best part about my bike is the gearbox which is clearly superior to any other bike I have had (including my X11). Some people seem to have had problems with it, but mine is 100% and have _NEVER_ missed a shift. my 2ct, /Jim PS.The look of the bike is also top notch! PS.PS. Back to Lara Croft and the angel of darkness!! =================Original message text=============== Hi, I've been lurking on the list for a while now, drinking in the wealth of knowledge that's available. I was looking to buy a low mileage KLR 650 missed out on a couple so took the plunge yesterday and bought one of the last remaining 2002 models Kawasaki aren't importing them to the UK anymore not enough sales apparently. I pick the bike up at the weekend and needless to say I have some questions somebody may be able to help me with. 1) What are the differences between the US model and the European/UK model from what I can see, spark arrester and emissions equipment is a lot less/non-existent on UK models is there anything else? 2) This being a brand new bike, what are peoples views on manufacturer's run-in recommendations verses Motoman's advice http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 3) Has anyone any idea where I can get a magnetic sump/drain plug for the KLR in the UK I believe it's a 12mm thread widely available in the US, but have trawled the Net and can't track one down over here. Look forward to hearing your thoughts and thanks to everyone for making this such a helpful and interesting list. All the best Geoff Perth, Scotland, UK List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ==============End of original message text===========

James Hoving wrote:

>7. Dont know if this is the same on the US version... "Made in >Thailand" sticker on bike. >

Yes, I think the '02 bikes in the US are the same.

>8. Rear tire made from butter. Good grip, but spent after 300km. >

Sounds familiar.

>9. No tach. >

I took it off. Nothing but bad news anyway.

>10. No temp gauge, only light. >

Same as tach, it's overheating when it boils over. I plan to re-route the overflow hose so it pours coolant onto my left foot as a more simple and convenient temperature indicator.

>12. The luggage rack will only hold 3kg. The factory says... >

I think ours says 10kg. But if I don't put a 250lb passenger on.......

>13. Better engine guard. Welded steel pipe and plate construction. >

I have been having trouble with the aftermarket alloy plates for the A model. Considering steel.

>14. Steel rims. >

Sounds very heavy, but I have already wrecked a KLR front alloy rim (cracked). Seen lots of bad things happen to rear rims.

>15. Wierd-ass emission control system where the idle mixture is >controlled by engine heat! Look strange... Will try to get some >pictures up. > >

Please do. That sounds really strange.

>What I will change: >New exhaust. Now it sound like a daxhound with astma. (and runs like >one, my old XT500 was faster) >

Funny, I also swear my '78 SR500 has more power off the line. But it also has a 10:1 piston and a 36mm carb. But I like that you can't hear me in the woods until I'm 50ft away.

> >The KLR (for me) is an OK use bike. Its ok back ond forth to the store >and work good for long dirt roads. Its probably the weakest thumper I >have owned and needs the clutch to wheelie in first gear. >

That doesn't sound right. As delivered from the dealer, I could wheelie my A15 in 1st using nothing but throttle (and scooting back a little on the seat). Devon A15