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shopping for new chain, front and rear sprocket

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2003 10:14 am
by louis lavoie
About you , what compagny offer the best chain, front and rear sprocket for the money. I mean with the same maintenance, what sould we buy that will offer the best ratio $/miles. Louis A14 _________________________________________________________________ MSN Search, le moteur de recherche qui pense comme vous ! http://fr.ca.search.msn.com/

shopping for new chain, front and rear sprocket

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2003 10:18 am
by Zachariah Mully
On Thu, 2003-02-20 at 11:14, louis lavoie wrote:
> About you , what compagny offer the best chain, front and rear sprocket for > the money. I mean with the same maintenance, what sould we buy that will > offer the best ratio $/miles. > Louis A14
The chain that'll last the longest is the one that you maintain properly. Z

shopping for new chain, front and rear sprocket

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2003 12:52 pm
by Zachariah Mully
On Thu, 2003-02-20 at 13:03, louis lavoie wrote:
> I always maintain my chain the best way I can. The question I am > asking is very easy to understand. If you dont understand it please spend > your time somewhere else(like riding).
Jeez! You can't take a joke, can you? -- Z DC A5X A11X

shopping for new chain, front and rear sprocket

Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2003 8:55 pm
by david gay
Do I detect more panty wadding????? Zachariah Mully wrote:On Thu, 2003-02-20 at 13:03, louis lavoie wrote:
> I always maintain my chain the best way I can. The question I am > asking is very easy to understand. If you dont understand it please spend > your time somewhere else(like riding).
Jeez! You can't take a joke, can you? -- Z DC A5X A11X List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

shopping for new chain, front and rear sprocket

Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2003 8:07 am
by mark
Dave, you have a mighty keen sense for detecting this phenomena. I'm thinking... special training? Louis, On a somewhat less useless note, regarding Chain & Sprocket wisdom; There are too many variables for a conclusive answer... so just buy a good O-ring or X-ring chain, a good set of STEEL sprockets, and keep spraying/squirting some kind lube crap on it. Then keep it adjusted. If you don't already have a favorite vendor, just call Fred and tell him your needs and credit card number, then watch for the Arrohead parts to come in. Make sure it runs towards the loose side of adjustment -running too tight will shorten chain life and cause the seals to fail on your countershaft (then your motor oil leaks out and you cook the motor or gearbox$$$). Chains run $40-180 depending on source, features and strength. Sprockets, $15-50 front and $25-100 for the rear. I say steel because I believe that aluminum isn't worth squat for longer distance riding. For primarily offroad riding, logic suggests thinner liquid type lube capable of cutting through and removing the crud. Street use, a sticky goo that clings for many miles would seem to offer some advantages. Some folks have turned in good numbers using 90wt gear lube and even ATF (for the o-rings). And there's always the loobman, hawke-oiler or scottoiler mechanisms that (manually/automatically) drip lube onto the chain/sprocket. Again some folks like 'em, some don't. IMO, simpler = better, so I'd consider the manually operated loobman first at about $30. It's been bantered about here before, so a search should pull up a thread on the cost per mile of, cheap, but well maintained chains vs expensive and well maintained chains. The advantage went to the cheap chain as I recall. But the thought of being stranded in BFE due to a chain break motivates me to drop the extra nickels on the DID or Tsubaki X-ring style. (I use the web interface to access DSN_KLR650 so the searching is pretty easy.) And no, it is not the best cost per mile. Well cared for, you can get 10-20K miles out of chain/sprocket set, less if ridden hard in the sand or mud, more if ridden gently on the street. Certainly I'd toss mine before 25K miles, but then I hate walking home and will gladly skip lunches to pay for a new chain. Mark --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, david gay wrote: > > Do I detect more panty wadding????? > > Zachariah Mully wrote:On Thu, 2003-02-20 at 13:03, louis lavoie wrote: > > I always maintain my chain the best way I can. The question I am > > asking is very easy to understand. If you dont understand it please spend > > your time somewhere else(like riding). > > Jeez! You can't take a joke, can you? > > -- > Z > DC > A5X > A11X > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

vendor - balancer lever material info

Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2003 8:18 am
by wannabsmooth1
Several people have asked questions about this - here is info. I've spoken off list to a few people - but until my site is up - here is info. Here is information and background for MY choice of material. My lever is made from 17-4PH stainless steel, heat treated to 44c on the Rockwell scale. People have asked me "why not make it from 4130 carbon steel." ANSWER: 4130 will not get as hard and strong as this (44c)in a "heat treating" process.. 4130 can be CASEHARDENED (which does use heat) to get a hard layer. I have confirmed this with the quality control manager at Certified Metal Craft, in El Cajon, California (San Diego area). Certified Metal Craft is an aerospace certified heat treating facility. According to the Jorgensen Steel and Aluminum Stock List and Reference Book: Mechanical properties for 4130, condition F (hardened and tempered), ultimate tensile strength 125 KSI (min), yield 100 KSI (min). I can't comment on the strength characteristics of case hardened parts. I chose 17-4 because it was the best material for the job - not because it was stainless steel. 17-4 PH in this condition ( called H900) has a ultimate tensile strength of 190 KSI (min), yield 170 KSI (min). The certifications furnished with the material usually reflect a greater test strength than this. The material is hot rolled, annealed and pickled. I buy it, saw it, send it to heat treat. After heat treating, I machine it. The machining does not affect the heat treat. Here is a quote form the Reynolds Product and Data Catalog: "Applications: 17-4 PH* is used in a wide variety of applications because of its unique combination of advantages where HIGH STRENGTH and HARDNESS are a must, 17-4 PH* provides these properties plus the added benefit of excellent corrosion resistance. Or, for applications requiring excellent corrosion resistance17-4 PH gives the extra advantages of HIGH STRENGTH and HARDNESS. It's ideal for boatshafts, pump shafts, valve gates, plugs, seats, stems and trim, SPRINGS, GEARS, FASTENERS, CHAINS, mixing equipment, AEROSPACE APPLICATIONS such as hydraulic actuators, STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS, FASTENERS, connectors in high pressure systems, CUTTER BLADES, RACING CAR PARTS, and oil field equipment. *Registered trademark of Armco Steel Corporation." (caps added by me) From the Jorgensen book: "Applications: Used where high strength and good corrosion resistence are required, as well as for applications requiring high fatigue strength, good resistence to galling, seizing and stress corrosion. Suitable for intricate parts requiring machining and welding, and/or where distortion in conventional heat treatment is a problem." I hope this answers your questions. Mike Eagle Mfg & Eng San Diego, Ca. 619-479-0123