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replacing fork boots
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2002 10:53 am
by prbklr
What is involved in replacing the fork boots on my A13? I don't
recall seeing this mentioned in the FAQ's or archieve, if it was
please point me there. Otherwise, any help or suggestions would be
appreciated.
Paul
Frisco, TX
A13
replacing fork boots
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2002 11:06 am
by Devon Jarvis
It's easy if you have some sort of work stand:
Lift bike so front wheel is off the ground.
Disconnect speedo cable.
Unbolt front brake caliper bracket from fork tube, zip-tie, tape, or
wire caliper to the shroud or other out-of-the-way place.
Unbolt axle and remove the front wheel.
If you have a fork brace, remove it.
Loosen hoseclamps securing the fork boots, top and bottom.
Loosen the steering clamp pinch bolts and slide forks out.
Remove old boots, install new boots.
Reassembly is the reverse of installation (except for fork brace, save
that for last). The manual (and the FAQ on Chris Krok's site
http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html ) has the torque values you need
for bolting everything back together.
If you are reinstalling a fork brace, put everything else back together
first, then fit the fork brace with the bolts hand tight. Take the bike
off the lift or milk crate or floor jack or whatever you used, and
bounce the front end a few times. Wiggle the fork brace and see if it
moved. The brace should fit exactly with the bolts just hand tight. If
the bolts pull the fork brace into position when you tighten them, then
the brace doesn't fit right.
Good luck.
Devon
A15
prbklr wrote:
>
> What is involved in replacing the fork boots on my A13? I don't
> recall seeing this mentioned in the FAQ's or archieve, if it was
> please point me there. Otherwise, any help or suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
> Paul
> Frisco, TX
> A13
>
replacing fork boots
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2002 11:14 am
by Ken Parker
I just hoisted the front end off the ground using a
tiedown strap then removed the front wheel and dropped
the fork legs out one at a time. The brake caliper has
to be removed to get that one out. Then replace the
boots and put it all back together. Took me about 30
minutes.
OlKen in spudland (Idaho)
--- prbklr wrote:
=====
Ol'Ken in I DA HO
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! - We Remember
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replacing fork boots
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2002 11:16 am
by Cloyce D. Spradling
On Wed, Sep 11, 2002 at 03:53:27PM -0000, prbklr wrote:
: What is involved in replacing the fork boots on my A13? I don't
: recall seeing this mentioned in the FAQ's or archieve, if it was
: please point me there.
Hi Paul. I did mine a few weeks ago; I also didn't find anything in the
FAQs.
It's pretty simple; remove the front wheel, remove the forks, off with the
old boots, on with the new. As the Haynes writers are fond of saying
"Installation is the reverse of removal."
Don't forget to undo the speedo gear at the wheel before you start. Also,
you'll have to remove the front brake caliper. It's not necessary to remove
the line; just tie it up out of the way. Be sure to have a new cotter pin
for the castle nut on the front axle.
While the wheel is off, be sure to not bend the brake disc. I also found that
it was a good time to re-grease the speedo gear. I would've done the wheel
bearings, but my A13 only has 22k on it and they were still smoooooth.
When you loosen the pinch bolts on the upper and lower clamps, be sure that
the fork doesn't fall out. Mine didn't, because the angle and weight of the
fork helped keep it wedged in, but if yours are clean that might not be
enough.
When I put them back on, the only things that I was really careful about were
making sure that the tops of the tubes were flush with the top of the top
triple clamp and (more importantly) making sure that they were even.
Triple clamp pinch bolt torque should be 25 Nm (18 ft-lb). That value is from
the last supplement; IIRC the base manual listed a lower torque. The torque
value for the front axle nut is 78 Nm (58 ft-lb).
Oh, yeah... I have a centerstand, which made the whole thing pretty easy.
But a lift or milk crate or whatever should work too.
You could probably do it without removing the front wheel, but it seems to
me like that'd be a bigger pain.
Good luck.
--
Cloyce
A13 in Austin
replacing fork boots
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2002 8:36 pm
by dooden
>
> Oh, yeah... I have a centerstand, which made the whole thing pretty
easy.
> But a lift or milk crate or whatever should work too.
>
A lift yes, a milk crate NO !! I tried, was being lazy and did'nt
feel like dragging my lift out, and a Milk Crate failed... moved the
suspension, but not enuff to lift a wheel off the ground.
Dooden
A15 (That dont like Milk Crates)
wanted still
Posted: Thu Sep 12, 2002 5:18 am
by Mark St.Hilaire, Sr
> I am trying to build a tank of a klr.I'd be intrested in anything that
> protect vulnerable areas BEFORE they break.(note to self-doh).
Sure thing! In no particular order, Check out:
http://www.bigcee.com/
For excellent prices, and Big Cee exclusive stuff like the Shark Fin.
http://www.happy-trail.com/
For racks, guards, and a number of other things.
http://sagebrushmachine.netfirms.com/
For specialty stuff, like the doohickey.
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html
For pretty much everything.
There are a number of other places, but I've only dealt with these people,
and can highly recommend each and every one. All are reputable and reliable,
and will get your stuff to you without hassle...
Mark
Glitter is coined to meet the moment's rage;
Genuine lives on from age to age.
- Goethe's "Faust"
KLR650 Motorcycle Pages:
http://klr6500.tripod.com/
HomePage:
http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html
My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If
you don't get a response, please try:
KLR6500@...