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throttle falloff (or lack thereof)
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2002 12:15 pm
by KLR650A1@ws2.net
'87 KLR all stock experiencing poor throttle-down response.
Shifts are a pain since the RPM's just dont drop nearly
fast enough! Also the RPM stability (particularly mid-range)
is not very good.
I've read everything I could find on this carb, plus
checked the archives, and have a few ideas of things to
try, but if this is a common problem/fix for a stock
machine, then your starting-point suggestions are appreciated,
before I start shimming, drilling, bending components that
dont necessarily require it at this point.
Thanks,
Scottez - Ohio
KLR650 A1
throttle falloff (or lack thereof)
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2002 12:29 pm
by Bogdan Swider
Clean/lube the cables; there are two, one for opening the throttle
another for closing. You might need to grease the mechanism inside the
throttle. Check the adjustment at the throttle and at the carb. Check how
strong the springs are. None of this involves shimming drilling etc. Probably
you're just dirty and dry. ( So.'s your carb linkage )
Bogdan
> '87 KLR all stock experiencing poor throttle-down response.
>
> Shifts are a pain since the RPM's just dont drop nearly
> fast enough! Also the RPM stability (particularly mid-range)
> is not very good.
>
> I've read everything I could find on this carb, plus
> checked the archives, and have a few ideas of things to
> try, but if this is a common problem/fix for a stock
> machine, then your starting-point suggestions are appreciated,
> before I start shimming, drilling, bending components that
> dont necessarily require it at this point.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scottez - Ohio
> KLR650 A1
>
>
throttle falloff (or lack thereof)
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2002 1:19 pm
by Zachariah Mully
On Mon, 2 Sep 2002 KLR650A1@... wrote:
>
> '87 KLR all stock experiencing poor throttle-down response.
>
> Shifts are a pain since the RPM's just dont drop nearly
> fast enough! Also the RPM stability (particularly mid-range)
> is not very good.
>
> I've read everything I could find on this carb, plus
> checked the archives, and have a few ideas of things to
> try, but if this is a common problem/fix for a stock
> machine, then your starting-point suggestions are appreciated,
> before I start shimming, drilling, bending components that
> dont necessarily require it at this point.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scottez - Ohio
> KLR650 A1
>
Scott-
As well as looking at the throttle cables as Bogdan suggested, if
that doesn't cure the problem, your throttle slide may be worn and hanging
up. First check the cables and their routing, the cables are of different
lengths so make sure that you've got the right ones in the right places.
If you do need to check the slide, remove the choke cable first (left side
of carb) or you'll break the cable elbow, and then after loosening the
clamps on the carb, you'll be able to rotate it in place and pull the top
of the carb off.
Z
DC
throttle falloff (or lack thereof)
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2002 6:25 pm
by judjonzz
Check that the slide moves freely in the carb body. Since the
CVK40 is a vacuum-slide carb; any swarf, spooge or galling
between the slide and body can cause it to hang up. If the slide
is alloy, it sometimes helps to massage the slide and bore with
Simichrome, cleaning it thoroughly before reassembly. (If the
KLR slide is plastic, there may be other remedies.) in any case,
don't try to lubricate the slide. If all is well, it should move freely
on its own, and any attempt to introduce a foreign substance will
probably just gum up the works.
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Bogdan Swider" wrote:
> Clean/lube the cables; there are two, one for opening the
throttle
> another for closing. You might need to grease the mechanism
inside the
> throttle. Check the adjustment at the throttle and at the carb.
Check how
> strong the springs are. None of this involves shimming drilling
etc. Probably
> you're just dirty and dry. ( So.'s your carb linkage )
>
> Bogdan
>
>
> > '87 KLR all stock experiencing poor throttle-down response.
> >
> > Shifts are a pain since the RPM's just dont drop nearly
> > fast enough! Also the RPM stability (particularly mid-range)
> > is not very good.
> >
> > I've read everything I could find on this carb, plus
> > checked the archives, and have a few ideas of things to
> > try, but if this is a common problem/fix for a stock
> > machine, then your starting-point suggestions are
appreciated,
> > before I start shimming, drilling, bending components that
> > dont necessarily require it at this point.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Scottez - Ohio
> > KLR650 A1
> >
> >
water proof grease recommendations please?
Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2002 5:41 am
by twowheelwandering
FWIW I'm using Redline's 'Red Moly' grease.
I've been running it since mile 0 but doubled the service intervals
and it seems to be holding up way better than the Molyslip trad black
moly grease I used on my last KLR.
Stupid expensive and might be snake oil but for me if its only 10%
better its worth paying more if it means I don't need to rip into the
linkage as many times on the road. Those of you with fixed abodes
and garages should decide for yourself...
BTW I had the same vaseline as Devon in mine from stock. You might
want to consider doing the regrease early in the bikes life, not only
to replace the stock crap with better grease but with more of it -
fill all cavities as much as possible, to avoid areas where water can
sit and corrode, in theory the seal should catch it but not always
the case. My last KLR had pitting on some surfaces from corrosion.
Rich
www.twowheelwandering.com
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Devon Jarvis wrote:
> The manual recommended using an extreme-pressure grease with moly,
if I
> remember correctly. All the greases people are debating would be
> suitable according to the book.
>
> Unfortunately, the f#!king factory didn't use the recommended
grease on
> my unitrak when they assembled the bike. I greased the bearings
when I
> had the shock out around 5000mi, they were lubed with something that
> looked like vasaline, and some just had clear oil. AFAIK moly
grease is
> always black because of the additives.
>
> This is one of the reasons I like to mock Kawasaki build quality.
But, a
> riding buddy just punched a hole in his DRZ radiator in a low-speed
fall
> offroad, because some jackass at suzuki installed a hoseclamp so the
> tail would hit the radiator when it flexed back on it's rubber
> mountings. Goes to show you can't look things over too closely.
>
> Devon
>
> Bogdan Swider wrote:
> >
> > A while back some grease expert posted the reason for using the
grease
> > described in the manual. I forgot what his reasoning was but he
strongly
> > believed that it was the way to go. Made sense to me but then
what do I
> > know.
> > Bogdan
> >
> > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bradcdavis"
wrote:
> > > > I am getting ready to lube my UniTrac and would like some
> > > > recommendations on a waterproof grease. I have Exxon Moly
Chassis
> > > > grease now which will work fine but I'd rather use a wp
grease if
> > > > possible. Can you even get a wp Moly grease?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks-
> > > > Brad
> > >
> > > I used Bel Ray waterproof grease. An aluminum complex grease,
> > > according to their web site
www.belray.com. $3.25 for a tub,
which
> > > will do a lot of linkages.
> > >