water proof grease recommendations please?

[KLR650A1@ws2.net]

'87 KLR all stock experiencing poor throttle-down response. Shifts are a pain since the RPM's just dont drop nearly fast enough! Also the RPM stability (particularly mid-range) is not very good. I've read everything I could find on this carb, plus checked the archives, and have a few ideas of things to try, but if this is a common problem/fix for a stock machine, then your starting-point suggestions are appreciated, before I start shimming, drilling, bending components that dont necessarily require it at this point. Thanks, Scottez - Ohio KLR650 A1

[Bogdan Swider]

Clean/lube the cables; there are two, one for opening the throttle another for closing. You might need to grease the mechanism inside the throttle. Check the adjustment at the throttle and at the carb. Check how strong the springs are. None of this involves shimming drilling etc. Probably you're just dirty and dry. ( So.'s your carb linkage ) Bogdan

> '87 KLR all stock experiencing poor throttle-down response. > > Shifts are a pain since the RPM's just dont drop nearly > fast enough! Also the RPM stability (particularly mid-range) > is not very good. > > I've read everything I could find on this carb, plus > checked the archives, and have a few ideas of things to > try, but if this is a common problem/fix for a stock > machine, then your starting-point suggestions are appreciated, > before I start shimming, drilling, bending components that > dont necessarily require it at this point. > > Thanks, > > Scottez - Ohio > KLR650 A1 > >

[Zachariah Mully]

On Mon, 2 Sep 2002 KLR650A1@... wrote:

> > '87 KLR all stock experiencing poor throttle-down response. > > Shifts are a pain since the RPM's just dont drop nearly > fast enough! Also the RPM stability (particularly mid-range) > is not very good. > > I've read everything I could find on this carb, plus > checked the archives, and have a few ideas of things to > try, but if this is a common problem/fix for a stock > machine, then your starting-point suggestions are appreciated, > before I start shimming, drilling, bending components that > dont necessarily require it at this point. > > Thanks, > > Scottez - Ohio > KLR650 A1 >

Scott- As well as looking at the throttle cables as Bogdan suggested, if that doesn't cure the problem, your throttle slide may be worn and hanging up. First check the cables and their routing, the cables are of different lengths so make sure that you've got the right ones in the right places. If you do need to check the slide, remove the choke cable first (left side of carb) or you'll break the cable elbow, and then after loosening the clamps on the carb, you'll be able to rotate it in place and pull the top of the carb off. Z DC

[judjonzz]

Check that the slide moves freely in the carb body. Since the CVK40 is a vacuum-slide carb; any swarf, spooge or galling between the slide and body can cause it to hang up. If the slide is alloy, it sometimes helps to massage the slide and bore with Simichrome, cleaning it thoroughly before reassembly. (If the KLR slide is plastic, there may be other remedies.) in any case, don't try to lubricate the slide. If all is well, it should move freely on its own, and any attempt to introduce a foreign substance will probably just gum up the works.

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Bogdan Swider" wrote: > Clean/lube the cables; there are two, one for opening the throttle > another for closing. You might need to grease the mechanism inside the > throttle. Check the adjustment at the throttle and at the carb. Check how > strong the springs are. None of this involves shimming drilling etc. Probably > you're just dirty and dry. ( So.'s your carb linkage ) > > Bogdan > > > > '87 KLR all stock experiencing poor throttle-down response. > > > > Shifts are a pain since the RPM's just dont drop nearly > > fast enough! Also the RPM stability (particularly mid-range) > > is not very good. > > > > I've read everything I could find on this carb, plus > > checked the archives, and have a few ideas of things to > > try, but if this is a common problem/fix for a stock > > machine, then your starting-point suggestions are appreciated, > > before I start shimming, drilling, bending components that > > dont necessarily require it at this point. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Scottez - Ohio > > KLR650 A1 > > > >

[twowheelwandering]

FWIW I'm using Redline's 'Red Moly' grease. I've been running it since mile 0 but doubled the service intervals and it seems to be holding up way better than the Molyslip trad black moly grease I used on my last KLR. Stupid expensive and might be snake oil but for me if its only 10% better its worth paying more if it means I don't need to rip into the linkage as many times on the road. Those of you with fixed abodes and garages should decide for yourself... BTW I had the same vaseline as Devon in mine from stock. You might want to consider doing the regrease early in the bikes life, not only to replace the stock crap with better grease but with more of it - fill all cavities as much as possible, to avoid areas where water can sit and corrode, in theory the seal should catch it but not always the case. My last KLR had pitting on some surfaces from corrosion. Rich www.twowheelwandering.com

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Devon Jarvis wrote: > The manual recommended using an extreme-pressure grease with moly, if I > remember correctly. All the greases people are debating would be > suitable according to the book. > > Unfortunately, the f#!king factory didn't use the recommended grease on > my unitrak when they assembled the bike. I greased the bearings when I > had the shock out around 5000mi, they were lubed with something that > looked like vasaline, and some just had clear oil. AFAIK moly grease is > always black because of the additives. > > This is one of the reasons I like to mock Kawasaki build quality. But, a > riding buddy just punched a hole in his DRZ radiator in a low-speed fall > offroad, because some jackass at suzuki installed a hoseclamp so the > tail would hit the radiator when it flexed back on it's rubber > mountings. Goes to show you can't look things over too closely. > > Devon > > Bogdan Swider wrote: > > > > A while back some grease expert posted the reason for using the grease > > described in the manual. I forgot what his reasoning was but he strongly > > believed that it was the way to go. Made sense to me but then what do I > > know. > > Bogdan > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bradcdavis" wrote: > > > > I am getting ready to lube my UniTrac and would like some > > > > recommendations on a waterproof grease. I have Exxon Moly Chassis > > > > grease now which will work fine but I'd rather use a wp grease if > > > > possible. Can you even get a wp Moly grease? > > > > > > > > Thanks- > > > > Brad > > > > > > I used Bel Ray waterproof grease. An aluminum complex grease, > > > according to their web site www.belray.com. $3.25 for a tub, which > > > will do a lot of linkages. > > >