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stripped foot peg mount
Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2002 6:32 pm
by KJ
Well I went and stripped one of my foot peg mounts. I was just checking to
make sure it was tight and it stripped. I was only using a 1/4 drive socket
too. So anyone know what size tap and bolt I need to fix this? Jake? you
sell these? I have a dual-star center stand and the bolts they provide. It
really didn't take much to strip it so be careful.
Karl
A14
stripped foot peg mount
Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2002 7:17 pm
by ATO137528@aol.com
My KLR sits outside with the same delimma...BOTH bolt holes stripped. I took
the bolts to a place here that sells fasteners and got a tap and two new
bolts. It is a 3/8" and fit perfectly in the stripped out hole. I got bolts
to fit and came home all excited.
I twisted the tap into the hole and decided to give it one more turn. It
exploded into about 10 pieces! The largest of which is hopelessly secured
into the hole and I have no way of getting it out. Drill it out? With
what?? the tap is supposed to be harder than regular steel. My metal drill
bit just bounces off it.
Screw it. I'm gonna weld the MF on. Enough is enough!
Lamar
A14 "Hanger Queen"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
stripped foot peg mount
Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2002 12:32 am
by Steven van Twuyver
Just repaired a stripped footpeg on my Tengai. I replace mine with a
matching set so I can't help you out with the size. If you can re-tap it do
so. Mine were too far gone and the previous owner tried to bore them too
large. For the best job, take a die-grinder or
Dremel tool with a mini cut-off disc and cut the face of the foot peg box
off. Then grind off the original nuts. Buy new nuts and have them TIG
welded on. Then TIG weld the face of the box back on. Cost me $50 to have
this done. Then I had to repaint the frame tube. Painting was easy since I
painted most of the frame to a readily available color. Getting a match to
the stock frame color may be difficult.
>Well I went and stripped one of my foot peg mounts. I was just >checking to
>make sure it was tight and it stripped. I was only using a 1/4 drive
>socket
>too. So anyone know what size tap and bolt I need to fix this? >Jake? you
>sell these? I have a dual-star center stand and the bolts they >provide.
It
>really didn't take much to strip it so be careful.
>Karl
>A14
stripped foot peg mount
Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2002 11:00 am
by Chuck MacKarness
Personally I believe welding them in place is your new best method of re-attachment, I would replace the entire mount point, but not weld the pags in place...
Another thought, looking at the frame it appears to be a high tension point for the tubes, so please be careful with the heat concentration on the frame members there, improper heating could lead to stress fractures.
Take care.
Rev. Chuck
:^)>+
--- ATO137528@... wrote:
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stripped foot peg mount
Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2002 11:07 am
by Chuck MacKarness
hehehe, I said "...pags..." what the heck are pags?

Disclaimer and disclosure of facts begin:
ALL READERS PLEASE UNDERSTAND: I really meant "pegs"...
Disclaimer and disclosure of facts end:
--- Chuck MacKarness wrote:
>Personally I believe welding them in place is your new best method of re-attachment, I would replace the entire mount point, but not weld the pags in place...
>Another thought, looking at the frame it appears to be a high tension point for the tubes, so please be careful with the heat concentration on the frame members there, improper heating could lead to stress fractures.
>
>Take care.
>Rev. Chuck
>:^)>+
_____________________________________________________________
Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with email@... by Everyone.net
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stripped foot peg mount
Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2002 1:04 pm
by KJ
on 7/22/02 12:00 PM, Chuck MacKarness at RevChuck@...
wrote:
> Personally I believe welding them in place is your new best method of
> re-attachment, I would replace the entire mount point, but not weld the pags
> in place...
> Another thought, looking at the frame it appears to be a high tension point
> for the tubes, so please be careful with the heat concentration on the frame
> members there, improper heating could lead to stress fractures.
>
> Take care.
> Rev. Chuck
> :^)>+
>
I managed to re-drill and tap the stripped mount for a 10mm bolt.
Karl
A14
rk chains
Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2002 10:18 pm
by judjonzz
My oem chain and rear sprocket just deteriorated suddenly with
about 9000 mi. on them. I bought the bike with 4k on it, so I don't
know how it was treated, but I have been lubing it about every
2-300 mi. It looked fine when I lubed and inspected it down in
Iowa last weekend, but at home 200 mi. later, yhe chain was
hanging down and the teeth on the sprocket were worn to needle
points, or rounded off.
Sprocket Specialists had a DID O-ring chain for five bucks less
than the RK, so I ordered the cheaper one.
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., RM wrote:
>
> On Mon, 22 Jul 2002, Chris Krok wrote:
>
> >Someone once posted that the RK was a "bargain" chain,
and ones like DID
> >are the chain of choice.
>
> The local squid-pack seems to lean towards RK. They're a
bunch of
> crotchrocket kids though, so take that with a grain of salt.
>
> I have no allegance to any particular chain mfr. I get whatever's
cheap,
> and Chaparral had the best price on DID's, so.....
>
> >I also found that the stock rear sprocket is pretty tough!
>
> The OEM sprocket has awesome wear characteristics.