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superbrace - axle pinch bolts
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2002 10:22 pm
by David Kaltenbaugh
KLR Listers:
I just received the Superbrace. Where are the "axle pinch bolts" on KLR, and to what should they be re-torqued?
Also, in a small plastic bag stapled to the instructions were 4 washers and 2 nail-like objects, but the instructions were mute as to them. Can anyone on the list with experience in the Superbrace installation comment on them?
/s/ David Kaltenbaugh
A16
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
superbrace - axle pinch bolts
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2002 11:36 pm
by monahanwb
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "David Kaltenbaugh"
wrote:
> KLR Listers:
>
> I just received the Superbrace. Where are the "axle pinch
bolts" on KLR, and to what should they be re-torqued?
KLR has no axle pinch bolts. That's one of its weak points, and is
why the front end is so flexible. A fork brace will help overcome
this weakness but will not address it entirely. Axles with pinch
bolts are way stronger than the rinky-dink threaded axle like the KLR
uses. Pinch bolts tighten the axle and fork legs together in a much
stronger fashion. Your instructions sound generic, meant to apply to
most motorcycles, and not specifically the KLR.
The axle nut gets tightened to 58 ft/lbs, and needs all of it applied.
superbrace - axle pinch bolts
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2002 11:58 pm
by Fred Hink
The "2 nail-like objects" are Pop Rivets. This is all that SuperBrace has
come up with to attach the fork boots to the brace. For this reason, I have
discontinued selling the SuperBrace and am now selling and supporting Tim's
K-9 fork brace. The K-9 sells for the same as the black SuperBrace and is a
much better fork brace.
Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
http://www.canyonlandsmotorclassic.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Kaltenbaugh"
To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 9:21 PM
Subject: [DSN_klr650] Superbrace - axle pinch bolts
> KLR Listers:
>
> I just received the Superbrace. Where are the "axle pinch bolts" on
KLR, and to what should they be re-torqued?
>
> Also, in a small plastic bag stapled to the instructions were 4
washers and 2 nail-like objects, but the instructions were mute as to them.
Can anyone on the list with experience in the Superbrace installation
comment on them?
>
> /s/ David Kaltenbaugh
> A16
>
superbrace - axle pinch bolts
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 12:51 am
by tedfshred
> The axle nut gets tightened to 58 ft/lbs, and needs all of it
applied.
I don't have a torque wrench so must rely on Gutentite method, which
leads to the question, is it possible to apply enough gorilla torque
to damage bearings? If the cotter pin alignment twixt axle nut and
axle is difficult, I tend to favor lite torque. Now I'm wondering if
tighter is better to keep front end stiffened up.
Also, mounted K270s today, saw no rotation direction arrow, did i
miss something, or do these things go both ways?
Tom post reads like porn
A15
superbrace - axle pinch bolts
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 1:22 am
by Lujo Bauer
> axle is difficult, I tend to favor lite torque. Now I'm wondering if
> tighter is better to keep front end stiffened up.
Don't know about too tight, but not tight enough you'll feel in worse
handling.
> Also, mounted K270s today, saw no rotation direction arrow, did i
> miss something, or do these things go both ways?
Yup, they're bidirectional.
-Lujo
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
superbrace - axle pinch bolts
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 12:21 pm
by RM
On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, tedfshred wrote:
>I don't have a torque wrench so must rely on Gutentite method, which
>leads to the question, is it possible to apply enough gorilla torque to
>damage bearings? If the cotter pin alignment twixt axle nut and axle is
>difficult, I tend to favor lite torque. Now I'm wondering if tighter is
>better to keep front end stiffened up.
I've cranked mine down pretty damn tight with no ill effect. Didn't help
the handling any....
>Also, mounted K270s today, saw no rotation direction arrow, did i miss
>something, or do these things go both ways?
The K270's are bi.
RM
swingarm lube project - help
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 5:32 pm
by Devon Jarvis
I would say that doing a valve clearance check is much less work than
lubing the swingarm and unitrak bearings. Unless you strip or break one
of the small, delicate bolts holding on the valve cover.
I have always been able to remove the rear wheel without removing the
brake caliper. You need to get your bike up a little higher.
Devon
caliphery wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Just spent about 6 hours running through the procedure for lubing the
> swingarm and unitrack bearings, including clean-up, and it went
> reasonably well. All bolts slid out pretty smoothly for me. It was a
> lot of work and not at all what I'd call easy. Can anyone tell me how
> this compares (in terms of time, effort, technical competence) with a
> valve clearance check? (That's what I'm planning on doing next.)
>
> The instructions below are good; I thought I'd add a bit more detail.
>
> * For novices, to remove the rear wheel, you have to remove the rear
> brake from its swingarm mounting by removing the two allen bolts
> holding it in place.
>