new doohickey theory
Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2002 8:01 am
I was asked off-line to post the methods I use to break the clutch
plates free before I put it into gear after the bikes sits for a few
hours. There are three ways that I know of to avoid the big clunk.
1. Before you start the bike, sit on the bike, put it in first, pull
in the clutch, and firmly rock the bike back and forth until you are
able to roll the bike forward a little. You will be able to tell
when the plates break free because you won't be able to roll the
bike until they do.
2. The second is to start the bike in gear. To do this, put the
sidestand up, put the bike in first, hold the cluth in, hold the
back brake down FIRMLY to keep the bike from rolling, and start the
bike. This method puts more strain on the started motor and battery.
3. If you are on an a slight incline, sit on the bike and start the
bike like you always do, roll the bike forward down the incline,
while you are moving slowly, pull in the clutch and put it in
first. The forward motion allows first gear to mesh without the
clunk. Then blip the throttle before you let out the clutch. You
will feel the bike pull forward slightly until the plates break
free. Then the motor will rev freely.
My driveway has a slight incline so I use number 3 every time I
leave my house. Most other times, I use number 1, and then number 2
together.
Hope this helps.
Russ
Brunswick, NY
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Russell Derby wrote: > Hello All. I am new to the group and have been > reading with interest all the exchanges on the > doohickey breakage having purchased a 2002 KLR650 in > February of this year. I would like to throw an idea > out there that I haven't seen in any of the recent > exchanges for everyone to consider. I have looked at > the pictures on the web page that describes the > replacement procedure for the doohickey. > > www.devonjarvisphoto.com/posted/KLR650/ ... ickey.html > > From the looks of the broken pieces, I think it is > possible that another one of the KLR's "personality > traits" may be causing the failures. I found it > alarming the first time I popped the KLR into first > gear after the bike sat overnight. It made a loud > CRUNCH and the bike stalled from the force even though > the bike was still on fast idle. I know that can't be > a good thing so I now know to break the clutch plates > loose before I put the bike in gear. I believe that > the sticking clutch plates may be the "shock" that is > shattering the doohickey and causing stretching of the > balancer chain. On the website listed above, it > shows a great picture of the complete balancer > assembly under the rotor. From this picture, it > appears that the balancer weights would be spinning in > a clockwise direction. If the crankshaft were to > suddenly decelerate due to the clutch plates sticking > when the bike is put in gear, the same forces would be > transferred to the balancer chain. So, you have the > crank yanking on the balancer chain in one direction > to slow it instantaneously and you have the > centrifugal force of the spinning weights pulling the > other direction because of Newton's first law, an > object in motion continues in motion with the same > speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by > an unbalanced force. I believe the force is > attempting to pull the balancer chain into a looser > position by rotating the idler shaft. The only thing > preventing the idler shaft from rotating is the > infamous doohickey, which I believe is shattering due > to the force. Are there any engineer's out there that > can calculate how much force it would take to stop the > rotating balancer weights instantly from 1500rpm? I > bet the force applied to the balancer chain, idler > shaft, and doohickey is greater than one would > imagine. > > Call me crazy but I will be making sure the clutch > plates are not stuck when I put the bike in gear. > > Russ > Brunswick, NY