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chain slack
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2000 2:01 am
by Tumu Rock
I noticed while lubin' my chain that the piece of plastic on the swingarm
under the chain has some pretty deep grooves. Is this normal?
I haven't actually checked the slack yet as I am searching for a 20lb weight
to hang off the chain (all the dealers I know use triple-beam scales and
sell by the ounce ;') Anybody know how much an average cinder block weighs?
It doesn't look like tightening the chain would prevent it from rubbing on
the swingarm anyway, but I could be wrong - rare, but possible.
dat brooklyn bum
p.s. thanks for the responses to my bolts query. If anyone actually does
come up with a kit, put me down for one.
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steering head bearing races
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2002 7:41 pm
by TexasThumpin@aol.com
In a message dated 1/2/02 10:01:13 AM Central Standard Time,
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com writes:
> Better than a slide hammer puller in many cases I think is an air
> hammer fitted with a straight 18" bit cut off to a blunt end with a
> sharp edge. It has worked great for me in the past on wheel bearings
> that have only a slight relief to get at them. Again, the KLR lower
> race had a negative relief. For that I recommend a welder.
>
> A lot of times you can heat the area with a small torch, like a plumbing
> torch, heat up the gooseneck and then using a mallet, or your slide hammer,
> the race should come right out. When I pulled mine, I used a propane torch,
> mallet, and drift punch. Took less than 30 minutes to do the whole thing.
> Now for the quick tip. Put your new bearing races in your freezer for a
> couple days. Make sure you put them in some kind of dry covering, like a
> zip-lok back with no air in it. Why, you ask. Because your races will
> shrink a bit and go in much easier than if done at ambient temperature.
> Works even better if you have a partner that can heat up the gooseneck
> while you are inserting the races.
>
> Jim
> Texas Thumpin
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