Page 1 of 1

another newbie

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2000 10:57 am
by thetrueyeti@hotmail.com
Hello Everyone, I have spent the last few days flipping through the archives. This group is just what im looking for. I pick up my '01 KLR650 this week. I cant wait. I live in Virginia Beach and am in the Navy. I am looking for any advice, riding buddies, or just any other ways to have a blast on my new bike. I am really looking forward to becoming a member of this "family" . Thanks in advance for any help. Mike

another newbie

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2000 11:08 am
by Kurt Simpson (Editor Dual Sport News)
I have spent the last few days flipping through the archives. This group is just what im looking for. I pick up my '01 KLR650 this week. I cant wait. I live in Virginia Beach and am in the Navy. I am looking for any advice, riding buddies, or just any other ways to have a blast on my new bike. I am really looking forward to becoming a member of this "family" . Thanks in advance for any help. Mike ___________________ Advice? OK? Put the first 500 miles on avoiding lugging. Rev it freely to the maximum suggested. Don't stay at one speed. When you get to 500 miles change the oil and filter and check the valves. Do it yourself with the help of the list as most dealers we've found won't check them and won't tell you that they have. Continue the break in and at 1,500 change the oil and filter and check the valves again. Do it once more at 3,000. Change the fish oil out of the front forks at around 1500 miles and drop some Larry Roesler Progressive Springs in there at the same time. This is a start, Kurt

another newbie

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2000 11:20 am
by motor_rider@email.msn.com
--- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Kurt Simpson \(Editor Dual Sport News\)" wrote:
> Advice? OK? Put the first 500 miles on avoiding lugging. Rev it
freely to the maximum> This is a start,...
> > Kurt
Kurt, I thought your advice would be to sell it and buy a DR650 ;-) MR

another newbie

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2000 11:30 am
by Kurt Simpson (Editor Dual Sport News)
> Advice? OK? Put the first 500 miles on avoiding lugging. Rev it
freely to the maximum> This is a start,...
> > Kurt
Kurt, I thought your advice would be to sell it and buy a DR650 ;-) MR _________________ Full of your oats this morning now that the Supreme Court has damaged their image and reputation in ensuring dubya's coronation (g)? And I thought your advice would be to throw away the wrenches, forget the oil changes and especially the valve adjustments, and ride that bike! Oh yeah, about you turning over a new leaf MR, all I can say is what I often say in my men's group, it is a variation on the oft repeated, "everywhere you go there you are" ... it is "I'm stuck with the f*** that I am." Kurt Have I told everyone lately what a superb bike the DR650 is (g)? BTW, the latest and upcoming issue of DSN "crowns" a new best dual sport and adventure tourer and it isn't a KLR or DR...it is one of MR's favorite brands however...

another newbie

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2000 1:27 pm
by Don Detloff
> the latest and upcoming issue of DSN "crowns" a new best dual sport > and adventure tourer and it isn't > a KLR or DR...it is one of MR's favorite brands however...
When is the next issue coming out? Don Detloff Fair Haven, MI A14

another newbie

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2000 10:34 am
by Bogdan Swider
> ! > Oh yeah, about you turning over a new leaf MR, all I can say is what I > often say in my > men's group, it is a variation on the oft repeated, "everywhere you go > there you are" > ... it is "I'm stuck with the f*** that I am." > > Kurt >
You can't run away Your troubles will follow and find you someday Bogdan

another newbie

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2000 11:15 am
by motor_rider@email.msn.com
--- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote:
> You can't run away > Your troubles will follow and find you someday > > Bogdan
Speaking from experience, Bogdan? My camel wouldn't be chasing you, would it? MR

watts vs "light"

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2000 11:33 am
by Paul Pencikowski
Hello Listers... Somebody wrote: "...Unless you use a different technology, HID, etc, you draw 55/60 watts on a halogen bulb, you get 55/60 watts worth of light." This statement is fundamentally incorrect, for two reasons. (Science lesson follows)... Caveat: In order to keep this post to, say less than 600 pages of calculations (physics is like that), I have OVERSIMPLIFIED the issue, taking care not to introduce fallacies... A) The "watts" refers to current draw, NOT EFFICIENCY. If you used a filament of 1/8" iron, and it drew 55 watts, it would just barely glow. Somebody (not me) will have to do the calculations for actual "light output" (in "lumens", or perhaps in "candela"). Different technologies yield different outputs. Different executions of the *same* technology (ie cheap-vs-expensive "halogens") yield different outputs. This, being important, pales in comparison to point "B"... B) Spectrum (frequency) Distribution of the various "colors of light" contained within the output of the headlight. The "technology" does count (incandescent, halogen, PIAA-white etc) and here's where the plot thickens... We "see" things because they reflect light. When we "see" things, there are two major variables at work, these being (1) Resolution and (2) Contrast Ratio. Resolution is by far the most familiar, usually being expressed as "20/20" (20/40 etc) but more commonly as "lines-per-inch" discerned from a grid viewed at a set distance, under *prescribed light* etc. This is straightforward and accurate to measure. When the light falls off, resolution falls too (we simply "can't see" the object as everything blends-to-black). However, the really important variable is Contrast Ratio (CR). CR is our ability to measure "shades of gray" and for example on a Cathode Ray Tube (CRT, like you're reading this on) it can be between 8 and 10 shades-of-gray. Again, these CRT shades are measured with a pre-set signal injected into the amplifier, a set light output ("gain") etc. The human eye is capable of seeing truly huge numbers of individual shades of colors on a color-palate (like you get at a paint-store). Recall your last visit to the eye-doc? Black letters on a white background. Maximum CR because CR is really important in the vision-equation. Lets explore this CR-thing. Things are green because they reflect green light. So, if you wanted to see as many "green things" out ahead of you as possible, you would use a green headlight. But what if there were red things "out there" that you wanted to see? With your green headlight, they would appear black because as red-objects reflect only red-light, and you illuminated them with pure green light, "no light" was reflected. The green light was ABSORBED by the red object. We solve this problem by using a "white headlight". Because our "white" headlight has light from the entire visible spectrum, green objects reflect back the GREEN COMPONENT of the light from our headlight, red things the RED COMPONENT etc. However, a conventional incandescent bulb, while radiating across the visible light spectrum, IS BIASED TOWARD RED. The experiment needed to illustrate this is simple. Turn down the voltage to your headlight (ie "almost dead battery") and what do you see? A reddish-orange glow. Not "dim white". Again, note the word "biased"... A conventional incandescent bulb has "too much red" to yield "pure white" even though it may put out equivalent "lumens" when compared to another bulb technology. Halogen is both more efficient ("more lumens out" per watt) and is mildly less biased toward red than conventional incandescent. PIAA "white" is more efficient still (even more "lumens per watt" than halogen) and is noticably biased toward even-distribution of the visible frequencies within the radiated spectrum (even distribution = "white"). So you "see better" because with all this "whiter light", your ability to pick out tiny differences between shades of each primary color (reds, blues, yellows) improves. Same for "mixes" of primary colors (like "fuscia"). (Note: CRT's use as *their* primary colors red-blue-GREEN). In other words, illuminated with PIAA white, CR improves immensely. More lumens means your resolution improves slightly. Together this means YOU SEE A LOT BETTER! Incandescent is yesterday's news. Final note: There is quite a difference between reflected-light and direct-view-light. Because of this, there are "cheap *white* bulbs" on the market that seem to be "the real thing" but are not. They seem "whiter" when you look *at the headlight itself*. But these cheap white-bulbs do *not* have the frequency-distribution needed to improve CR. The *expensive-white* bulbs _do_ produce a frequency distribution biased away-from-red hence actually "whiter". And again, all bulb-technologies are not created equal (e.g. 55w halogen lumens-output can vary significantly among manufacturers). Yes, very simplistic, and I hope it gets the points across. To the fellow who stated he installed a PIAA white bulb and (paraphrase) "saw things better at night"... OF COURSE YOU DID! Resolution and Contrast Ratio went up measurably. Anybody who says the latest, high-quality (expensive) "really white" bulbs are just an "optical delusion and don't really work" simply does not understand the science. Paul P. _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com