Wilsons Sandbox
http://frenchandlogan.com/phpBB3/
http://frenchandlogan.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=209238
Say, uh, Jim, if your wife is, well, as gratifying as your KLR...and we're talkin' great rides for $800, I could probably find the checkbook.... Chris> The KLR is kind of like my wife, I did not appreciate her fully > until I had ridden her a while!
> I hope for your sake that you are not desperate enough to pay $800 for a > little tush! And yes, she is as gratifying in more ways than I can count: > both the KLR and my wife!
posted to> The klr has a reputation for blowing fuses. This is something I
of the> the list back in March. It may help. > > ============================ > > > I have seen a lot of comments on blown headlight fuses, and was one
my bulb> unlucky ones that HAD a problem. First thing I noticed, was that
knows> had loose bits of filament bouncing around in there, shorting who
switch is of> what. Second thing, as with all bikes I've ridden, the high/low
transition> the "make before break" variety, meaning that while during the
while on the> while switching, BOTH filaments are lit. In some of my bikes,
putting the> trails at night I used to take advantage of this by deliberately
combined> switch between high and low, to run both filaments, getting the
both> light output/coverage. Point is, even with the stock 55/60W, WHEN
filaments have> filaments are lit, it is consuming at least 115W. BTW cold
115W @ 12> an initial "inrush" current slightly higher than the rated load.
the switch> V = 9.58A (momentarily for those of you that don't cheat and put
another> in the middle. Tail lamp 5W + ~10W for instrument lights (possibly
while> 20W or so fro the turn signal). > > Bottom line: this gives us 130W @ 12V = 10.83A minimum, momentarily
the turn> switching the high/low beams, on a completely stock KLR, with out
always> signal running. Nearly 1 amp more than the 10 amp fuse. I was
= 13 A> taught to wire a circuit with 20% margin meaning that 10.83A + 20%
18AWG, and> circuit. Since it appears that all the wiring on this circuit is
temps, check> 18AWG is "safe" running 15 amps forever and ever, even at high
replaced the 10> the National Electric Code (NEC) if you don't believe me, I
90/55> amp fuse with a 15 amp unit. I have also replaced my bulb with a
since.> (13.33A total momentary w/o turn sig). I have not blown a fuse
this IS> > > Now before I get some nasty responses, I am NOT trying to say that
am only> the fuse blowing problem, I don't have the data to support that. I
wrote:> trying to post a reasonable hypothesis to this issue.... > > > Steve (no blown fuses) Anderson > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, Tom Vervaeke
towards> > Hello: > > > > Need some bits of advise on what's up. On a dual sport ride last > > Saturday my headlight stopped functioning. We had just completed > > a long day (400 miles) of street and dirt. Was driving back
Rushed> > home when my friend in front of me (on the street) waved me up and > > said my headlight had just gone out, i.e. it was on and then it > > just stopped. I selected low beam and no luck. No headlight.
Whew.> > a bit to get home but made it home about 1 hour prior to dark.
really> > > > According to the manual there are 3 things that can go wrong: > > > > 1. Bulb burns out. > > 2. Blew a fuse > > 3. Problem with switch on handlebar. > > > > I immediately removed the headlight bulb and examine it. It looked > > fine to me but I put in the spare bulb and no luck. It was not the > > bulb. Put old bulb back in. I also checked for voltage at the > > headlight socket and no luck. No juice anywhere there. I have made > > no mods to the bike that would affect this. The only thing in > > that area I did lately was to override the clutch safety switch by > > doing the modification listed on the KLR mods page. Not sure how > > this could affect that. > > > > Wife summoned me to go out to dinner. No more time to work on KLR. > > > > So, the only two other things it can be is the fuse or the switch. > > It appears there are two fuses under the seat and another one up > > front for the radiator fan. I will have time tonight to remove the > > side panels and seat in order to get to the fuses. Are there any > > other fuses? Both the owners manual and the service manual are
guessing> > pretty pathetic and don't even state which fuse is which. I'm
up> > it's not the fuse and I can't imagine what could have caused it to > > blow as I was riding down the street. I came across Arne's write
the> > on the replacement of the fuse box with the blade type fuses and
without> > location moved to the side of the bike so it can be accessed
idea.> > removing side panels and seat. This now seems like a very good
my> > > > If I rule out the fuses, what specifically in the switch should I > > look for? I'm guessing that as soon as I open it up about 13,000 > > small springs and things are going to fly to the four corners of
they're> > basement. The high-low beam switch is the one I'm guessing
hear> > talking about. It appears to be functioning correctly. > > > > Thanks for any ideas. If anyone has been through this I'd like to
> > about it. > > > > Best, > > > > Tom V > > A13 > > > > > > ===== > > ========================================================= > > Tom Vervaeke, Colorado, USA |Email: tom_vervaeke@y... > > '99 Kawasaki KLR-650, 5.0K |Ph: 719-495-2152 (home) > > '96 BMW R1100GS, Black 61.5K|Ph: 719-590-2133 (work) > > Colorado DualSporters Group |Ph: 719-650-4578 (cell/riding) > > Try: http://www.egroups.com/group/Colorado-Dualsporters > ========================================================= > >