Wilsons Sandbox

> > > SIMPLY WHAT > > OIL DO YOU USE??? > > Since you asked nicely - Catrol GTX in my Golf. Mobil 1 synthetic in > my wife's Passat. Bel Ray pre-mix synthetic in the Lambretta and the > weed wacker/trimmer thingy. Cheap assed 30w in the lawnmover. When > I had a Vespa I used Belray synthetic injector 2 stroke in it. My > KLR's front forks have Bel Ray 10wt fork oil in them. I use Bel Ray > (no, I don't own Bel Ray stock, that's just what the local shop > stocks) foam filter oil on my KLR's air filter. I change oils much > more often than the service schedule calls for. > > TTYL > Karl

I bet the lawn mower outlasts them all!(the last to go will see the others go before them)

> > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > ________________________________________________________________________ > > >

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> I bet the lawn mower outlasts them all!(the last to go will see

the others

> go before them)

Yes, I can see that happening The more I think about it, the more I think motor oil is like bottled water from a marketing perspective. Will an engine really last longer using $8/litre synthetic compared to $1.49/litre dino? Sure it protects better in the 'tests' but do engines really care? Has anyone on this list ever had an oil related failure? Premature engine wear becuase of not using a certain brand or type of oil? Anyone out there? My guess is not. I think 99.9% of the time an engine self destructs like Kurt's did, and not wear out because the most expensive brand of oil wasn't used. Just use whatever makes sense, and change it as often as you feel is required. FWIW Karl

In a message dated 9/20/00 8:14:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, garagedoor79@... writes: ;) The more I think about it, the more I think motor oil is like bottled water from a marketing perspective. Will an engine really last longer using $8/litre synthetic compared to $1.49/litre dino? Sure it protects better in the 'tests' but do engines really care? Has anyone on this list ever had an oil related failure? Premature engine wear becuase of not using a certain brand or type of oil? Anyone out there? My guess is not. I think 99.9% of the time an engine self destructs like Kurt's did, and not wear out because the most expensive brand of oil wasn't used. Just use whatever makes sense, and change it as often as you feel is required. >> Karl--In the past I would have agreed with you but after physically inspecting every single part in my engine/tranny during the rebuild process I am having second thoughts. At just over 30,000 miles I found some wear problems in the tranny. The countershaft was badly worn on the right end and the bearing race there was also badly worn, both were replaced. I also had some shift fork wear and replaced one. Since all the gears and the shift drum looked like new I tend to think of that kind of bearing failure as possibly being oil related. I'm not sure that different oil would have made a difference but after I finish break in I'm going to use Honda HP 20-50 as per Elden Carl's suggestion. I have always changed oil at 2000 miles or less and had been using Mobil Delvac 1300 15-40 fleet oil. Don't want to start another oil thread, just reporting what I found. Regards Kurt Grife

--- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Bob Palin" wrote:

> I have a 98 KLR650 (10K miles) which has developed a sticky

throttle

> in mildly cool weather (60F or less) This occurred after a day in > the dirt but i can't see anything physically impeding the cable or > any particularily dirty places. It doesn't matter what the engine > temperature is which suggests to me that the problem lies at an end > of the cable. I previously put 24K on a 91 KLR650 in the worst > conditions I could find, mud, dust, sand, rain, snow and never had > any problem at all. I've never lubed the cables and thought it > wasn't necessary due to my previous KLR experience. > > Any ideas? > > Bob Palin

Hey Bob, if you dumped it in the dirt I would suspect the throttle tube (under the grip) may be binding against the end of your handlebars. You could have knocked it on the ground and moved the housing on the bars. Also, you don't mention if you run Rally Pro's or something like that, so I can't guess there. If the cable is clean and not in a bind, look there. Also, plastic expands and contracts with the heat and cold, so maybe that is why the (plastic) throttle tube is binding on the bars at different temperatures. Good Luck, CA Stu