[dsn_klr650] poor cold starting

[zootpatutie]

 

1) I bought a "universal joint" from sears for my 3/8 torque wrench because the wrench didn't fit squarely to torque the cover bolts. Did I get the right thing? Also, the instructions for the torque wrench said the formula for adjusting the torque with an adapter was only needed for extensions that extended past the head of the wrench (not directly underneath). So I don't need to do any formula adjustments do I?   If the universal was straight under the wrench, I suppose it wouldn't change the torque settings much, but then why would you need the universal? 2) While removing the shims, using Elden Carl's instructions, I found the step that said "remove the cams" to be way too vague. I've never removed cams before and I had no idea how to do it. I was stuck for a while, checked my manuals repeatedly, but didn't want to do the wrong thing. I then determined that I could just lift the cams a little bit and slide the shims right out underneath them. For future reference, what is the easiest way to do this?   Works for me, but be careful not to drop the cam bearing bolt sleeves into the bottomless pit. 3) When I put the new shims in, do I have to turn the tappets around so the notches are put back where they were originally? Don't think so Thanks for any info, Raamses Roanoke, VA A14 "Lusus" (600 miles) http://www2.50megs.com/raamses/klrpage.htm [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2Fadimg.egroups.com%2Fimg%2F3587%2F3%2F_%2F911801%2F_%2F956706537%2Fclace08b.gif&t=1571716899&sig=xBKZzMCMOaPrrg01lQfmrg--~E[/img] Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[Dreas Nielsen]

> Mike Cook [mailto:MCOOK@...] wrote: > > I have recently purchased a KLR600 that is difficult to start cold. The > behavior is as follows: > To cold start the choke MUST be fully on and no throttle. > *Using the electric starter the engine has to turn over at least 8 times > before a single fire, and some times it will not fire at all. > *If it does start, it will slowly go up to 3000RPM. > *From here NOTHING can be done untill the temp gauge is in the middle near > HOT. If any throttle is applied before this, the engine stalls, just like > turning off the ignition. > *After the temp is in the middle to high, the choke is slowly > backed down to > 1500RPM. > *The throttle is quickly applied and removed untill the engine speeds up > when the throttle is applied instead of stalling. > *Then the choke is completly removed and the engine runs fine.

My 600 would die when the throttle was opened if it was allowed to idle above about 1500 RPM, with choke, for too long after it got up to temp (not to the middle of the gauge, just to the dot near the bottom). My solution: don't let it idle too long. Are you sure you can't slowly back off the choke as it warms up to keep the idle at 1200 to 1300? Dreas