klr ownersmight find klr kle hybrid interesting

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "jeepaviation" wrote:

> > > I have recently talked to Rick with Cognent Dynamics Suspension. He stated that the bushings are teflon coated. After the Teflon is worn through then you have metal to metal wearing on each surface.

Jeeps- my original question remains-- how do you measure wear? smile. naked, worn bushings or clothed in teflon. or in this case, what kind of teflon meter would you use to see if it (the bushings) is/are used up? Would that be something from the 90's, like measured from B. Clinton's era, ie the Teflon President? or do you just replace bushings (Bush-ings) after 4, sometimes 8 years? revmaaatin. who is amazed at the misuse of teflon. cough.

[jeepaviation]

Out for a few days. work Work.. Well, I just replaced the fork bushings. No, there is no meter. The coating is just a coating on the inside diameter of the bushings. If there is wear through the entire coating then you can see it clearly, no special equipment required. I work with coating in aviation and some of the coatings are Teflon. If you wanted to go as far as measuring it...an ultrasonic thickness test would do. But why bother. They are inexpensive enough to replace while the forks are disassembled. Mine were worn, but not all the way through the coating. I replaced them anyway. I was unsure if I needed a fork brace. My thoughts were that you have to ride pretty aggressively to warrant the brace. I did notice there was enough scarring of the chrome piston where it mounts into the lower brace of the triple tree / steering stem. The only way I could think of scratches happening there would be fork flexing. Well, perhaps there is something to this fork brace stuff. Now the only other concern I would have would be if a big rock got caught between the tire and the fork brace....More research required.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "jeepaviation" wrote: > > > > > > I have recently talked to Rick with Cognent Dynamics Suspension. He stated that the bushings are teflon coated. After the Teflon is worn through then you have metal to metal wearing on each surface. > > Jeeps- > my original question remains-- > how do you measure wear? smile. > naked, worn bushings or clothed in teflon. > > or in this case, what kind of teflon meter would you use to see if it (the bushings) is/are used up? > Would that be something from the 90's, like measured from B. Clinton's era, ie the Teflon President? > or > do you just replace bushings (Bush-ings) after 4, sometimes 8 years? > > revmaaatin. who is amazed at the misuse of teflon. cough. >

[jeepaviation]

Ok just reread you post. I think you are asking how could you measure wear on the chrome strut. An ultrasonic thickness test or a good micrometer set would do the trick. You would need to take a reading on a known good area of the strut and then take a reading on the worn area. Subtract the difference and that would give you the wear, or, material loss. BUT! I have never seen a chrome strut on a motorcycle that has ever worn the material to the point of physical damage. I think you would see leaky seals, etc and rebuild the shock well before any damage like that would be likely. My choice to replace seals and bushings is just a Preventative Maintenance issue. Now, that's just my experience. I am sure many others may have different stories.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "jeepaviation" wrote: > > > > > > I have recently talked to Rick with Cognent Dynamics Suspension. He stated that the bushings are teflon coated. After the Teflon is worn through then you have metal to metal wearing on each surface. > > Jeeps- > my original question remains-- > how do you measure wear? smile. > naked, worn bushings or clothed in teflon. > > or in this case, what kind of teflon meter would you use to see if it (the bushings) is/are used up? > Would that be something from the 90's, like measured from B. Clinton's era, ie the Teflon President? > or > do you just replace bushings (Bush-ings) after 4, sometimes 8 years? > > revmaaatin. who is amazed at the misuse of teflon. cough. >

[Darrel Kuhse]

Mark,   Thank you very much for the tip.  My 0.2 hp compressor only musters 100 psi, but I gave it a go.  It didn't happen immediately, but the first popped out like a champ and made a satisfying sound as it did. Removed the dust seal and POP went the second oil seal.  The PVC worked great in reseating both seals and the snap ring.   Darrel A12 [b]From:[/b] Tengai Mark Van Horn [b]To:[/b] Darrel Kuhse [b]Cc:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sat, January 2, 2010 6:16:58 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools  

Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. Mark At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote: I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.   Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12

[Darrel Kuhse]

That has been my experience with other bikes as well.  The problem with the KLR forks is that the allen bolt at the bottom simply spins - so there's a special tool called out in the KLR manual that inserts into the top tube that holds this assembly and prevents the bolt and assembly from spinning.  Glad I didn't have to go that route - the air pressure trick is fun and helps keep the zen in m/c maintenance.  Darrel A12 [b]From:[/b] Jeff Khoury [b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent:[/b] Sat, January 2, 2010 9:24:53 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Are the KLR forks assembled differently than every other set of forks I've ever done? Normally, after removing each tube, dust cap and snap-ring, you simply remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork and pull it apart.  Does this not work? -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai Mark Van Horn" To: "Darrel Kuhse" Cc: "DSN KLR650" Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:16:58 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools  

Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. Mark At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote: I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.   Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12

[Mark]

 You don’t even need a compressor. Last time I used a bike pump!!!

[dooden]

Fork on bike could also remove clip and compress fork to pop it out maybe. Wrap with a rag no matter which method you use.. After doing one the whole process will seem too easy and one will wonder why they put so much thought into it. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" wrote: > > You don't even need a compressor. Last time I used a bike pump!!! >

[W.V. Doran]

I put together a home made tool for this job. Someone on this list told me how to do it but it's been so long ago I can't remember who. You need.... 4 - 24MM nuts 1 - 25 inch piece of threaded MM stock some epoxy glue tape of some sort to wrap the visible threads Put 2 nuts on each end of the stock add some glue between the nuts and tighten against each other. Wrap tape around the threads so they won't damage the inside of the tubes. This will keep the Allen head bolt from spinning. Hope this helps... WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ

--- On [b]Mon, 2/8/10, Darrel Kuhse [i][/i][/b] wrote:

From: Darrel Kuhse Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools To: "Jeff Khoury" , "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Monday, February 8, 2010, 7:04 PM   That has been my experience with other bikes as well.  The problem with the KLR forks is that the allen bolt at the bottom simply spins - so there's a special tool called out in the KLR manual that inserts into the top tube that holds this assembly and prevents the bolt and assembly from spinning.  Glad I didn't have to go that route - the air pressure trick is fun and helps keep the zen in m/c maintenance.  Darrel A12 [b]From:[/b] Jeff Khoury [b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650 [b]Sent:[/b] Sat, January 2, 2010 9:24:53 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Are the KLR forks assembled differently than every other set of forks I've ever done? Normally, after removing each tube, dust cap and snap-ring, you simply remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork and pull it apart.  Does this not work? -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai Mark Van Horn" To: "Darrel Kuhse" Cc: "DSN KLR650" Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:16:58 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. Mark At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote: I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.   Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12

[W.V. Doran]

 A "24MM SOCKET" fits the nuts on this home made tool. I'm guessing that means a 24MM nut? I need to ride............ WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ

--- On [b]Tue, 2/9/10, W.V. Doran [i][/i][/b] wrote:

From: W.V. Doran Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools To: "Jeff Khoury" , "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, "Darrel Kuhse" Date: Tuesday, February 9, 2010, 2:39 PM   I put together a home made tool for this job. Someone on this list told me how to do it but it's been so long ago I can't remember who. You need.... 4 - 24MM nuts 1 - 25 inch piece of threaded MM stock some epoxy glue tape of some sort to wrap the visible threads Put 2 nuts on each end of the stock add some glue between the nuts and tighten against each other. Wrap tape around the threads so they won't damage the inside of the tubes. This will keep the Allen head bolt from spinning. Hope this helps... WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ --- On [b]Mon, 2/8/10, Darrel Kuhse [i][/i][/b] wrote: From: Darrel Kuhse Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools To: "Jeff Khoury" , "DSN KLR650" Date: Monday, February 8, 2010, 7:04 PM   That has been my experience with other bikes as well.  The problem with the KLR forks is that the allen bolt at the bottom simply spins - so there's a special tool called out in the KLR manual that inserts into the top tube that holds this assembly and prevents the bolt and assembly from spinning.  Glad I didn't have to go that route - the air pressure trick is fun and helps keep the zen in m/c maintenance.  Darrel A12 [b]From:[/b] Jeff Khoury [b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650 [b]Sent:[/b] Sat, January 2, 2010 9:24:53 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Are the KLR forks assembled differently than every other set of forks I've ever done? Normally, after removing each tube, dust cap and snap-ring, you simply remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork and pull it apart.  Does this not work? -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai Mark Van Horn" To: "Darrel Kuhse" Cc: "DSN KLR650" Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:16:58 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. Mark At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote: I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.   Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12

[E Hines]

I do not remember the nut size (I can check tonight), but the all thread and nuts work great for taking the shock apart.  [b]From:[/b] W.V. Doran [b]To:[/b] Jeff Khoury ; DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>; Darrel Kuhse [b]Sent:[/b] Tue, February 9, 2010 3:51:05 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools    A "24MM SOCKET" fits the nuts on this home made tool. I'm guessing that means a 24MM nut? I need to ride........ .... WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ

--- On [b]Tue, 2/9/10, W.V. Doran [i][/i][/b] wrote:

From: W.V. Doran Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools To: "Jeff Khoury" , "DSN KLR650" ups.com>, "Darrel Kuhse" Date: Tuesday, February 9, 2010, 2:39 PM   I put together a home made tool for this job. Someone on this list told me how to do it but it's been so long ago I can't remember who. You need.... 4 - 24MM nuts 1 - 25 inch piece of threaded MM stock some epoxy glue tape of some sort to wrap the visible threads Put 2 nuts on each end of the stock add some glue between the nuts and tighten against each other. Wrap tape around the threads so they won't damage the inside of the tubes. This will keep the Allen head bolt from spinning. Hope this helps... WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ --- On [b]Mon, 2/8/10, Darrel Kuhse [i][/i][/b] wrote: From: Darrel Kuhse Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools To: "Jeff Khoury" , "DSN KLR650" Date: Monday, February 8, 2010, 7:04 PM   That has been my experience with other bikes as well.  The problem with the KLR forks is that the allen bolt at the bottom simply spins - so there's a special tool called out in the KLR manual that inserts into the top tube that holds this assembly and prevents the bolt and assembly from spinning.  Glad I didn't have to go that route - the air pressure trick is fun and helps keep the zen in m/c maintenance.  Darrel A12 [b]From:[/b] Jeff Khoury [b]To:[/b] DSN KLR650 [b]Sent:[/b] Sat, January 2, 2010 9:24:53 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Are the KLR forks assembled differently than every other set of forks I've ever done? Normally, after removing each tube, dust cap and snap-ring, you simply remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork and pull it apart.  Does this not work? -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai Mark Van Horn" To: "Darrel Kuhse" Cc: "DSN KLR650" Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:16:58 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tools   Remove the snap ring, clean all debris out of there, flood area with Liquid Wrench or equivalent, add 100-120 psi to the valve at the top of the fork. The seals will either immediately or eventually pop out.  I've done this to about 6-8 sets of forks on KLRs. Mark At 11:03 AM -0800 1/2/10, Darrel Kuhse wrote: I've replaced fork seals on other bikes, but this bike is different.  To preclude seperating the inner and outer forks, I would drill a small hole in the oil seal, partially insert a sheet metal screw and pull out.  This outer fork is too spindley and the seal too narrow to get a good angle with the drill or dremel and runs the risk of marring the upper fork.  If I use an impact wrench to remove the bolts, I would think that I'd still need the special tool to properly torque upon reassembly.   Does anyone have the specifics on the homespun tool?  Thanks, Darrel A12