[dsn_klr650] breakign beads

[mcapocci]

Chains...my baby's got me locked up in chains....that aint the kind that you can see oh Actually chains and lubing them... The chains on motorcycles need to be lubed regularly and cleaned regularly also. Why? The lube keeps the o rings lubed and clean if done right. If the o rings lose their lubrication and get Packed with grime they will fail their job , let the sealed lube for the inner pins escape and that leads to chain wear ....often erroneously called stretch. Chains that wear too much can jump a tooth which can cause serious case damage, or break causing seriou case shock , rider damage, and cause a crash. The lube ..lubricated the sprocket chain interface......if these are not lubed the sprockets wear fast causing the chain to not release properly at the bottom of the front sprocket or the top of the rear. This can set up a nasty wave in the chain which can break the chain and all the nasty stuff above. Chains should be lubed....when you touch it a wet lube does not come off on you finger. A good safe test. I lube the chain every day minimum on a road trip often twice about every 250 miles. Is the rear well Geary's????sort of but I wash the bike after long rides and about once a month otherwise. That car Comes off best with a can of the cheapest carb cleaner I can buy. Usually lasts four washes.. I clean the chain every five hundred miles or so. I clean it using...well not wd 40 .. It is not a very good cleared , but not bad either.... I use the cheapest penetrating oil in can buy . It lasts about four cleanings. I use paper towels in the process also to help get the stubborn crap off. If the chain is reall bad I will wash it at the quarter car wash when I do the wheels and the rest of the bike. And then use wd 40 . Wd 40 is great stuff ...it is a water dispersant, hence the name, and a light lube. When I get home I then lube the chain with a chain lube , but I do not use that sticky stuff. That mixed with grit is nasty. Really the trick is lube the chain the products you use are not as important as doing it. The chain that lasteed the longest ever for me was on a seventy two xs 650 Yamaha. I ran the engine breather over the front sprocket. The heaving and steady mist from that engine was enough to keep that chain damp to the touch with clean oil.the bike heaved out about one quart per twelve hundred miles all I think on the chain. That chain was smaller than that on my klr with about ten more up and fifty pounds more weight. I think I averaged fifteen thousand miles on those chains. Using this method I have fourth five hundred on the klr original chain and have yet to adjust it. Chain stretch is a myth. They do not. The pin to roller bearings wear making the pin to pin distance increase due to elongation of the bore. If it stretched, it would shrink back after the load was removed....well they do that but the distances are reallllly small. Note when you replace a chain due to running out of adjustment...the chain is longer and the sprockets match that chain...well not perfectly but better that the new chain you are about to install. So replace the sprockets too. Beats crashing or chewing up a case.

[Buddy Seifert]

harp seal oil is rather hard to ome by out here; we prefer monk seal oil. Sent from my iPad

On Feb 12, 2012, at 21:04, "eddie" wrote: > Hi all, > > I have Scottoilers on my KLR650 and FZ8. They provide a steady source > of clean lube. What flings off is WD-40 and a paper towel easy to clean up. > Since the constant fresh supply of oil has a sort of cleansing effect on the chains, they don't really get dirty. > > However, I've been reading up a bit today on various spray chain lubes and their pros/cons. > There's a ton out there on all manner of ingredients that claim cleaner wheels, longer-lived chains and the like. > But, there seems to be a a certain lack of good info on the proper *cleaning* of an o-ring chain. > Me? I still believe that WD40 cannot, will not hurt an o-ring chain. I have never, repeat, never had even one o-ring fail from it. > That includes a bunch of miles on many motorcycles. But, your experiences may vary. > What I'm getting to is this: If one chooses a commercially available chain lube and sprays it > on a chain without cleaning it first, doesn't that just build up and start acting like a good abrasive paste? > > The Honda shop near here gave me a can of Honda's new(ish) aerosol chain cleaner. > It's a thin-bodied solvent of some o-ring safe description that is meant to be applied liberally, allowed to sit a bit > before being washed off with water(!). One is supposed to dry the chain thoroughly before applying a quality chain lube next. > I can't seem to figure out how one is supposed to dry a chain without a.) using possibly o-ring damaging heat. b.) riding it lube-less to sling out the water > or c.) allow it to air dry over time (Anyone that's put away a bike after a rainy ride without lubing a chain first has probably seen > their chain rust over night.) It's a neat idea for a product. But, I kinda have to pass on actually using it. > > Thoughts? > What do ya'll clean a chain with? Kerosene? Diesel fuel? Harp seal oil? > > eddie > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com > Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map > Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links > > >

[David Bowden]

I guess ive been lucky. The times ive had a flat, by the time i got stopped either one or both sides of the tire were on the outside of the rim already.

On Feb 16, 2012 3:43 PM, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote: > > > > Yeah, that will often work. When the rev had a flat out by Black Fox campground last August, we had a lot of assembled wisdom, and quite a few kickstands handy. > > > > I seem to recall we screwed around with one for a while without success. Then I applied my Motion Pro T6s to the task and had the bead broken in about 90 seconds. Then I went over to chat with the comely Rangerette while others fixed the tire. > > > > I relate this episode in all modesty. > > > yes, yes, yes, > now I remember, Jud was protecting my virtue. > I will admit, the modesty part, uh, I am a little vauge. > > all in all, it was 1 hour from discovery to recovery to include blowing two fuses; one each on two bikes. > > Note to all: check your electric pump at least at the beginning of the riding season. (shame face) I checked mine 5 years before, it worked and never gave it another thought. > Some where in time, it developed a taste for 20a fuses. > (The piston 'parked'/siezed; after disassembly and manually rotating the piston, all is better now. > > Note to self: remove your earplugs/helment before using electirc air pump so you can hear the first fuse blow. > I said to the other rider, > "Huh, my pump does not seem to be working. See if this works on your bike." > "Nope. It just blew the fuse." > Modest and virtuist comments followed. > > But we did have fun that day. smile. > and being a good KiLeRista, I had two spare 20a fuses. > revmaaatin. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]