i need help pls - muffler mod instructions with photos

[spike55_bmw]

My Clymers says all 6mm case bolts are 18 ft-lbs and 8mm are 32 ft-lbs. Again, these are the ones that hold the two center halves of the engine together. The 8mm were especially hard to loosen, so they were probably 32 ft-lbs. I needed to use a 6pt socket to get enough bite to loosen. Maybe what (ft-lbs / in-lbs) you are looking at are for the outer layers (doohickey-outside and water pump-outside that don't see extreme forces and are really just covers to keep the oil inside but I might be wrong. Thanks for the heads up and I'll check it out. I find that the Clymers and the OEM manuals aren't as complete as I would like and I have made many notations in my Clymers (many greasy fingerprints too) to guide me through infrequent tasks or maybe its just my lazy mind. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michael Martin wrote: > > Don, > > My Clymer manual says the 6mm bolts are supposed to be torqued to 71 in-lb, which is about 6 ft-lb. > > This closely matches the 69 in-lb called out in the instructions at http://www.leftcoastklrs.com/balancer_lever_upgrade.htm > > Mike Martin, > Louisville, KY > > > > ________________________________ > From: spike55_bmw > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 7:24:51 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Balancer system removal > > > Come on in. The water is fine. Splitting is easy, putting together probably requires replacing some case-to-case 6mm bolts around the front counter-balance. None of mine in that area could make it to 18 ft-lbs without popping. > > Don R100, A6F >

[fasteddiecopeman]

Don't know whether or not this is 'germane' to this issue: a 6mm bolt refers to the size of the threaded section, NOT the socket size to remove it. Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > My Clymers says all 6mm case bolts are 18 ft-lbs and 8mm are 32 ft-lbs. Again, these are the ones that hold the two center halves of the engine together. The 8mm were especially hard to loosen, so they were probably 32 ft-lbs. I needed to use a 6pt socket to get enough bite to loosen. > > Maybe what (ft-lbs / in-lbs) you are looking at are for the outer layers (doohickey-outside and water pump-outside that don't see extreme forces and are really just covers to keep the oil inside but I might be wrong. Thanks for the heads up and I'll check it out. I find that the Clymers and the OEM manuals aren't as complete as I would like and I have made many notations in my Clymers (many greasy fingerprints too) to guide me through infrequent tasks or maybe its just my lazy mind. > > Don R100, A6F > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michael Martin wrote: > > > > Don, > > > > My Clymer manual says the 6mm bolts are supposed to be torqued to 71 in-lb, which is about 6 ft-lb. > > > > This closely matches the 69 in-lb called out in the instructions at http://www.leftcoastklrs.com/balancer_lever_upgrade.htm > > > > Mike Martin, > > Louisville, KY > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > From: spike55_bmw > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 7:24:51 AM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Balancer system removal > > > > > > Come on in. The water is fine. Splitting is easy, putting together probably requires replacing some case-to-case 6mm bolts around the front counter-balance. None of mine in that area could make it to 18 ft-lbs without popping. > > > > Don R100, A6F > > >

[spike55_bmw]

I've learned a valuable lesson. Training in biology, chemistry, and business doesn't completely prepare one to be a qualified mechanic / machinist. There is always more depth to the subject than initially meets the eye. Luckily, no casing threads were hurt in the commission of my 'crime'. That is a testiment to the quality of the aluminum though. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote: > > Don't know whether or not this is 'germane' to this issue: > a 6mm bolt refers to the size of the threaded section, NOT the socket size to remove it. > Ed > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > > > My Clymers says all 6mm case bolts are 18 ft-lbs and 8mm are 32 ft-lbs. Again, these are the ones that hold the two center halves of the engine together. The 8mm were especially hard to loosen, so they were probably 32 ft-lbs. I needed to use a 6pt socket to get enough bite to loosen. > > > > Maybe what (ft-lbs / in-lbs) you are looking at are for the outer layers (doohickey-outside and water pump-outside that don't see extreme forces and are really just covers to keep the oil inside but I might be wrong. Thanks for the heads up and I'll check it out. I find that the Clymers and the OEM manuals aren't as complete as I would like and I have made many notations in my Clymers (many greasy fingerprints too) to guide me through infrequent tasks or maybe its just my lazy mind. > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michael Martin wrote: > > > > > > Don, > > > > > > My Clymer manual says the 6mm bolts are supposed to be torqued to 71 in-lb, which is about 6 ft-lb. > > > > > > This closely matches the 69 in-lb called out in the instructions at http://www.leftcoastklrs.com/balancer_lever_upgrade.htm > > > > > > Mike Martin, > > > Louisville, KY > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: spike55_bmw > > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 7:24:51 AM > > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Balancer system removal > > > > > > > > > Come on in. The water is fine. Splitting is easy, putting together probably requires replacing some case-to-case 6mm bolts around the front counter-balance. None of mine in that area could make it to 18 ft-lbs without popping. > > > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > > >

[revmaaatin]

Don, You are commended for telling us your 'lesson-learned'. We used to do the same thing in the Ready Room after a flight that gave you a good-scare, because not every pilot comes away with just a good scare. Some come away in a box. revmaaatin. who never poured oil in the bike with the drain plug out or started the bike with oil cap off, or.....

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > I've learned a valuable lesson. Training in biology, chemistry, and business doesn't completely prepare one to be a qualified mechanic / machinist. There is always more depth to the subject than initially meets the eye. > > Luckily, no casing threads were hurt in the commission of my 'crime'. That is a testiment to the quality of the aluminum though. > > Don R100, A6F > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote: > > > > Don't know whether or not this is 'germane' to this issue: > > a 6mm bolt refers to the size of the threaded section, NOT the socket size to remove it. > > Ed > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > > > > > My Clymers says all 6mm case bolts are 18 ft-lbs and 8mm are 32 ft-lbs. Again, these are the ones that hold the two center halves of the engine together. The 8mm were especially hard to loosen, so they were probably 32 ft-lbs. I needed to use a 6pt socket to get enough bite to loosen. > > > > > > Maybe what (ft-lbs / in-lbs) you are looking at are for the outer layers (doohickey-outside and water pump-outside that don't see extreme forces and are really just covers to keep the oil inside but I might be wrong. Thanks for the heads up and I'll check it out. I find that the Clymers and the OEM manuals aren't as complete as I would like and I have made many notations in my Clymers (many greasy fingerprints too) to guide me through infrequent tasks or maybe its just my lazy mind. > > > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michael Martin wrote: > > > > > > > > Don, > > > > > > > > My Clymer manual says the 6mm bolts are supposed to be torqued to 71 in-lb, which is about 6 ft-lb. > > > > > > > > This closely matches the 69 in-lb called out in the instructions at http://www.leftcoastklrs.com/balancer_lever_upgrade.htm > > > > > > > > Mike Martin, > > > > Louisville, KY > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: spike55_bmw > > > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > > Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 7:24:51 AM > > > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Balancer system removal > > > > > > > > > > > > Come on in. The water is fine. Splitting is easy, putting together probably requires replacing some case-to-case 6mm bolts around the front counter-balance. None of mine in that area could make it to 18 ft-lbs without popping. > > > > > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > > > > > > >

[spike55_bmw]

With temps in the teens at night, I didn't work on my bike for awhile but the weather broke, temporarily, and I've been 'gettin'-r-done'. I glued the the two center halves together with YamaBond4 (that stuff will absolutely not end up on the oil screen) and used the proper torque specs this time (still seems on the whimpy side to me). I hand-carried the engine into the dealer's shop (pre-arranged). The boss got the snap ring I needed for the end of the tranny's output shaft (gets covered by the clutch) while the mechanic got out the special wrench to hold the clutch basket and his torque wrench. After I installed the snap ring, the mechanic and I tightened the clutch basket nut to 95 lb-ft (lb-ft still doesn't roll of the end of my tongue but I guess it s more proper than ft-lbs). Walked out with an $11 bill for several snap rings (counter-balance shafts) and free shop time. Today, I installed the clutch plates (same order / sides as they came off - might not matter), and the cover. Also put the oil screen back in and a new gasket (heavily greased the water pump seal). Finished off the water pump and then put the engine back in the frame after I greased the rear wheel bearings and re-installed the wheel that was off while I installed grease fittings on the rear suspension parts. I greased up the engine mounting bolts's shafts since all showed signs of corrosion. Then my youngest of 5 brothers brought over his chainsaw with the carb in pieces and he couldn't remember how it went together (unsure why he thought I would). After 3 hours of working with what seemed like a Chinese wood block puzzle, we got it running as badly as it was running before he took everything apart, so I guess that was an accomplishment - running again. I have to work on the top end tomorrow. Installing the piston, cylinder, chain guides, chains, and the head. It's getting there. Planning on the $0.22 mod while carb is out. Anyone known how much gas, in milliliters, should be in the carb bowl when the floats are set right? We shoot for 40 ml with our Bings on the old BMWs. Hopefully, I'll get to test run the engine by next week. Finger's crossed that the bad tranny noises are gone. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > Apparently, mine was off from the factory by one tooth on the crankshaft: the counter-balance lobes were properly timed to each other but not to the piston. > > After correcting at 20K+ miles, I din't 'feel' a lot of difference (handlebars, seat, footpegs). Mirrors were a little better. > > Don R100, A6F > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Eric J Foster wrote: > > > > After having ridden a KLR with the front balancer off by ONE tooth, I'd > > rather ride a washing machine in spin cycle with a concrete block in it. > > > > Just fix the bike. > > > > E > > > > -- > > Guns kill people like silverware made Rosie O'Donnel fat......... > > > > Eric J Foster > > www.xr650r.us > > http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?call=ke1lb-9&terra=4&radar=*** > > >

[spike55_bmw]

I have the engine together enough to hold oil. No exhaust pipe, cooling system, or carb on it yet. Last night I filled it up with oil and used the starter to pump oil through the system. I'll repeat that over the next few days to make sure everything is wet that should be wet - input shaft in the gear box is hollow and oil comes out several ports to lube the gears. I'll have another opportunity to work on it Thursday afternoon. I should be able to run the engine (without counter-shaft sprocket, chain, rear wheel anchored in place) by then. Hopefully no more grinding noises from the gear box. Anyone drain their carb into a graduated cylinder to see how many milliliters are in a properly float-tuned carb bowl? Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > With temps in the teens at night, I didn't work on my bike for awhile but the weather broke, temporarily, and I've been 'gettin'-r-done'. > > I glued the the two center halves together with YamaBond4 (that stuff will absolutely not end up on the oil screen) and used the proper torque specs this time (still seems on the whimpy side to me). > > I hand-carried the engine into the dealer's shop (pre-arranged). The boss got the snap ring I needed for the end of the tranny's output shaft (gets covered by the clutch) while the mechanic got out the special wrench to hold the clutch basket and his torque wrench. After I installed the snap ring, the mechanic and I tightened the clutch basket nut to 95 lb-ft (lb-ft still doesn't roll of the end of my tongue but I guess it s more proper than ft-lbs). Walked out with an $11 bill for several snap rings (counter-balance shafts) and free shop time. > > Today, I installed the clutch plates (same order / sides as they came off - might not matter), and the cover. Also put the oil screen back in and a new gasket (heavily greased the water pump seal). Finished off the water pump and then put the engine back in the frame after I greased the rear wheel bearings and re-installed the wheel that was off while I installed grease fittings on the rear suspension parts. > > I greased up the engine mounting bolts's shafts since all showed signs of corrosion. > > Then my youngest of 5 brothers brought over his chainsaw with the carb in pieces and he couldn't remember how it went together (unsure why he thought I would). After 3 hours of working with what seemed like a Chinese wood block puzzle, we got it running as badly as it was running before he took everything apart, so I guess that was an accomplishment - running again. > > I have to work on the top end tomorrow. Installing the piston, cylinder, chain guides, chains, and the head. It's getting there. > > Planning on the $0.22 mod while carb is out. Anyone known how much gas, in milliliters, should be in the carb bowl when the floats are set right? We shoot for 40 ml with our Bings on the old BMWs. > > Hopefully, I'll get to test run the engine by next week. Finger's crossed that the bad tranny noises are gone. > > Don R100, A6F > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > > > Apparently, mine was off from the factory by one tooth on the crankshaft: the counter-balance lobes were properly timed to each other but not to the piston. > > > > After correcting at 20K+ miles, I din't 'feel' a lot of difference (handlebars, seat, footpegs). Mirrors were a little better. > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Eric J Foster wrote: > > > > > > After having ridden a KLR with the front balancer off by ONE tooth, I'd > > > rather ride a washing machine in spin cycle with a concrete block in it. > > > > > > Just fix the bike. > > > > > > E > > > > > > -- > > > Guns kill people like silverware made Rosie O'Donnel fat......... > > > > > > Eric J Foster > > > www.xr650r.us > > > http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?call=ke1lb-9&terra=4&radar=*** > > > > > >

[k650]

Looks like you are enjoying the rebuild process. From what you posted I think you are paying enough attention to detail to insure a successful outcome. I don't recommend cranking the engine anymore than necessary to prime the oiling system. In fact best practice if possible is to prime with minimal turning of the engine. So the point is leave it be until you are ready to fire it up. The reason being new rings on a fresh bore do not get lubed properly just cranking as the cylinder is partly lubed by oil flung off the big end of the rod and crank that has passed through the bearings. Also this is from memory so you will need to check the float level spec. You can use a short length of clear tubing connected to the loosened float bowl drain looped 180 degrees upward to get an accurate measure while it is running. The gas will rise in the tube to the same level as inside the bowl. Like having x-ray vision. Walt

> I have the engine together enough to hold oil. No exhaust pipe, > cooling system, or carb on it yet. Last night I filled it up with oil > and used the starter to pump oil through the system. I'll repeat that > over the next few days to make sure everything is wet that should be > wet - input shaft in the gear box is hollow and oil comes out several > ports to lube the gears. I'll have another opportunity to work on it > Thursday afternoon. I should be able to run the engine (without > counter-shaft sprocket, chain, rear wheel anchored in place) by then. > Hopefully no more grinding noises from the gear box. > > Anyone drain their carb into a graduated cylinder to see how many > milliliters are in a properly float-tuned carb bowl? > > Don R100, A6F > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" > wrote: > > > > With temps in the teens at night, I didn't work on my bike for awhile > but the weather broke, temporarily, and I've been 'gettin'-r-done'. > > > > I glued the the two center halves together with YamaBond4 (that stuff > will absolutely not end up on the oil screen) and used the proper > torque specs this time (still seems on the whimpy side to me). > > > > I hand-carried the engine into the dealer's shop (pre-arranged). The > boss got the snap ring I needed for the end of the tranny's output > shaft (gets covered by the clutch) while the mechanic got out the > special wrench to hold the clutch basket and his torque wrench. After > I installed the snap ring, the mechanic and I tightened the clutch > basket nut to 95 lb-ft (lb-ft still doesn't roll of the end of my > tongue but I guess it s more proper than ft-lbs). Walked out with an > $11 bill for several snap rings (counter-balance shafts) and free shop > time. > > > > Today, I installed the clutch plates (same order / sides as they came > off - might not matter), and the cover. Also put the oil screen back > in and a new gasket (heavily greased the water pump seal). Finished > off the water pump and then put the engine back in the frame after I > greased the rear wheel bearings and re-installed the wheel that was off > while I installed grease fittings on the rear suspension parts. > > > > I greased up the engine mounting bolts's shafts since all showed > signs of corrosion. > > > > Then my youngest of 5 brothers brought over his chainsaw with the > carb in pieces and he couldn't remember how it went together (unsure > why he thought I would). After 3 hours of working with what seemed > like a Chinese wood block puzzle, we got it running as badly as it was > running before he took everything apart, so I guess that was an > accomplishment - running again. > > > > I have to work on the top end tomorrow. Installing the piston, > cylinder, chain guides, chains, and the head. It's getting there. > > > > Planning on the $0.22 mod while carb is out. Anyone known how much > gas, in milliliters, should be in the carb bowl when the floats are set > right? We shoot for 40 ml with our Bings on the old BMWs. > > > > Hopefully, I'll get to test run the engine by next week. Finger's > crossed that the bad tranny noises are gone. > > > > Don R100, A6F > >

[Horton Oliphant]

Judging from your picture you have removed a key part of the spark arrestor. My original instructions call for one to use a hole saw that will remove the perforated tube and leave the tube that it sits in. The cyclone part of the spark arrestor spins the exhaust so that the hot bits of carbon wind up in the back of the muffler on the outside of the solid tube that it looks like has been removed in your picture. Without the solid tube the hot bits can just blow right out the back without being trapped. http://www.angelfire.com/planet/foxinsocks1947/tweetyfix.htm Alan Henderson A13 Iowa Jeff Khoury wrote:

> --Repost for those who've recently joined us-- > > How I did the muffler mod (a.k.a. tweetyectomy) > > What you need: > > 2" metal hole saw > 4" of 1" diameter dowel > a drill bit of the appropriate size for the hole saw > a pair of needle nosed pliers > a GOOD drill > a 1 7/8" or 2" OD piece of exhaust pipe or exhaust tip > a hacksaw > sandpaper > hi-temp matte black barbecue paint > a magnet on a stick (optional) > > A few bucks to pay a welder. > > * Chuck the drill bit and drill a longitudinal hole in the dowel. (The dowel will serve as a guide to keep the hole saw centered while cutting the back of your muffler.) > > * Unchuck the drill bit and chuck in the hole saw. > > * Attach the drill bit to the hole saw and tighten. > > * Slip the dowel over the drill bit. > > * Slide the whole contraption into the opening of your exhaust. > > * Cut the hole starting with slow speed and slow feed until you get a groove that the hole saw will ride in. Use cutting oil or similar applied at intervals while you're cutting. > > * Once the groove is created, you can increase the speed of the drill. > > * When you're getting close to breaking through, be careful not to push too hard and ram the hole saw into the guts of the muffler. > > * Tweety should come out easily if you grasp it with the needle nose pliers. > > * Use the magnet to pick up any shavings that fell into the muffler. > > * Stick the exhaust tip into the hole and guesstimate how much you want to cut off to leave the desired amount protruding. > > * Cut the exhaust tip to length with the hacksaw. > > * Have someone weld it in for you. (Midas did it for me for 20 bucks) > > * Surface sand all exposed metal to allow for best paint adhesion > > * Rattle-can the bare metal parts. > > * Start and listen to your new better-sounding, freer-flowing exhaust. > > Here are the pictures of my exhaust mod. Please excuse the sloppy weld, I guess the guy was having a bad day or something... > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/39547532@N03/sets/72157619806103287/ > > -Jeff Khoury > > >