fork oil, now atf

DSN_KLR650
zrod73026
Posts: 112
Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 2:01 pm

spark plug

Post by zrod73026 » Thu Jun 12, 2003 9:54 pm

Kinda makes you wonder if it will even come out now, huh! --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "imbikermikenotu" wrote:
> Does anyone think it is necessary to replace my spark plug? I have > an A13 with 12000 miles on it. It always starts and runs fine. I
am
> form the school of thought: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. > > Stock plug and Stock battery. > > Biker Mike

kcuf_oohay_666
Posts: 587
Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2001 11:52 pm

spark plug

Post by kcuf_oohay_666 » Thu Jun 12, 2003 10:38 pm

I change my plug every valve adjustment, 6000 miles. it's cheap --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "imbikermikenotu" wrote:
> Does anyone think it is necessary to replace my spark plug? I have > an A13 with 12000 miles on it. It always starts and runs fine. I
am
> form the school of thought: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. > > Stock plug and Stock battery. > > Biker Mike

klr_a4
Posts: 133
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2002 6:47 pm

spark plug

Post by klr_a4 » Sat Jun 14, 2003 8:39 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "imbikermikenotu" wrote:
> Does anyone think it is necessary to replace my spark plug? I have > an A13 with 12000 miles on it. It always starts and runs fine. I
am
> form the school of thought: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. > > Stock plug and Stock battery. > > Biker Mike
I agree If it ain't broke, don't fix it so I'd say not necessary. I've gone longer than that. Are you happy with your gas mileage? Conall

Allan Patton
Posts: 370
Joined: Sat May 11, 2002 3:22 pm

spark plug

Post by Allan Patton » Fri Aug 22, 2003 8:52 am

Changed the spark plug for the second time on the KLR. For 53,000 miles, it didn't look bad. Not much carbon, the electrode was only slightly rounded, and the gap was .044 inch. The new plug measured .034 out of the box, so I left it at that. The spark plug hole around the outside of the plug was full of dirt and gravel. Blew it out, loosened the plug, blew some more, out two more turns, blew more, still getting more crap out of the hole. Don't think I would want to change the plug without removing the tank and using compressed air. With any luck, this will be the last time I change it, unless it starts burning more oil than it's burning now. Allan A14 75,000 miles [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

dan.lammon
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:24 pm

spark plug

Post by dan.lammon » Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:24 pm

Hi folks.  Cleaning up and doing some maintenance on my 2003 KLR (10k miles) after setting up for about 6 months.  Think I'll replace the spark plug since it's probably never been changed.  Any suggestions on a good plug that you've had good success with?  Thanks

Martin Earl
Posts: 231
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 10:00 pm

spark plug

Post by Martin Earl » Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:46 pm

In my experience,there is--Nothing better than the OEM.IMO, Unless it is fouled, it is still good to go.I don't think, just because it is 12 years old justifies changing it. Perhaps Norm will comment. If he says otherwise, please ignore lines 1-4. grin. I think I only changed the plug at 40K because that seemed to be a lot of miles; shrug. the plug looked serviceable.I changed it again at 57K when a 685 kit was installed...just because I could. It still looked serviceable. cough. If your plug has sand granulations attached to the porcelain center and electrode, you need to service the air filter as well.m.
On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 7:24 PM, dan.lammon@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Hi folks. Cleaning up and doing some maintenance on my 2003 KLR (10k miles) after setting up for about 6 months. Think I'll replace the spark plug since it's probably never been changed. Any suggestions on a good plug that you've had good success with? Thanks

jeffsaline
Posts: 54
Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:37 am

spark plug

Post by jeffsaline » Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:20 pm

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cycletip
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Sep 09, 2009 1:58 pm

spark plug

Post by cycletip » Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:40 am

Agree with the others, no need to change unless there's something abnormal looking in which case that usually means something else is amiss.  Worked for a major plug manufacture for 15 years right around the time electronic ignition came into play.  People just got used to changing out spark plugs because that's what we did.  A spark plug does three things - seal the hole in the head against compression leak, conduct electricity and dissipate heat.  That's it.  Save your money.   

Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

spark plug

Post by Norm Keller » Tue Sep 08, 2015 11:42 am

+1 on what Martin & Jeff recommended. It's nasty to see how much sand is often sitting around the plug, ignored. I recommend blowing out the plug well area by way of the drain hole, as Jeff stated, and from the top, then turn the plug out a couple of turns, and blow again. Turning the plug out a bit often breaks loose stuck materials.
The fuel in some areas isn't very compatible with palladium spark plugs. The top driveability techs in this area tell me that they don't last any longer than a standard plug, although in other areas they are better. I prefer to use the stock configuration of plug in NGK as they seem to perform better than others, other than perhaps Bosch which can be virtually identical in automotive applications. People will sometimes make hyperbolic claims which aren't borne out in testing, IME. 

Paul Whatley
Posts: 40
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 1:30 pm

spark plug

Post by Paul Whatley » Tue Sep 08, 2015 12:50 pm

I am anticipating my first valve clearance check shortly and likely valve adjustment and thought this might be the time to change the plug. Sounds like it is well enough left alone especially since I am consistently getting 59.7 mpg. But....  I have to ask. Has anyone tried these spark plugs? Diamondfire Electrode | E3 Spark Plugs   [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2Fe3sparkplugs.com%2Fmedia%2Fpost%2Fchart.jpg&t=1571810294&sig=CHyMC0f0uBZwTlcHhx7B7g--~E[/img]     Diamondfire Electrode | E3 Spark PlugsE3 DiamondFire Spark Plug advanced electrode produces a flame to create more power while using less brake-specific fuel consumption than traditional designs.View on e3sparkplugs.comPreview by Yahoo  [b]From:[/b] "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, September 8, 2015 11:22 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: spark plug   +1 on what Martin & Jeff recommended. It's nasty to see how much sand is often sitting around the plug, ignored. I recommend blowing out the plug well area by way of the drain hole, as Jeff stated, and from the top, then turn the plug out a couple of turns, and blow again. Turning the plug out a bit often breaks loose stuck materials. The fuel in some areas isn't very compatible with palladium spark plugs. The top driveability techs in this area tell me that they don't last any longer than a standard plug, although in other areas they are better. I prefer to use the stock configuration of plug in NGK as they seem to perform better than others, other than perhaps Bosch which can be virtually identical in automotive applications. People will sometimes make hyperbolic claims which aren't borne out in testing, IME.  #ygrps-yiv-1021000125 #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526 #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526 -- #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1021000125 #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526 #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-1021000125 #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526 #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-1021000125 #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526 #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1021000125yiv7681444526ads { margin-bottom:10px;} 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