**sold**- one pair of bmw summer 2 nylon riding pants in tan, size m

[Greg May]

Good morning Robert From experience using a Battery Tender, it works keeping a good battery fully charged without needing to removed as you would need to with a trickle charger. I have also found though if you put it on a wet type lead acid battery it will "charge" the battery to the point that the Battery Tender stops charging and goes into storage mode so the surface charge on the battery from a voltage point of view is above the cutoff point of the charger but when you attempt to use the battery you will find that it has insufficent current output to drive the starter motor, which will show up as Jeff stated as a very low voltage measured at the battery while trying to crank the starter. If you go to the Deltran site at the link below it gives a pretty good but long winded description ot the technology....have a great day..Greg http://batterytender.com/resources/float-charging.htm From: RobertWichert To: Jeff Khoury Cc: JWF ; DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 6:55:46 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Start Button Intermittent I actually own a Battery Tender, and I have no idea how it works. I guess that I HOPE it works. : ) Robert P. Wichert P.Eng LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 8/11/2011 11:45 AM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > //Yes, Jeff, but in my response I mentioned that a bad connection can > sometimes fail ONLY UNDER LOAD.// > > Agreed. I've seen a number of batteries with "bad cells" that would > test fine until you put a decent load on it. I was agreeing completely > with you, sorry if it sounded like I was contradicting you. > > Battery tenders are "semi-smart" devices but even the best of them > won't load test the battery. The only way that a shadetree mechanic > can know for sure is to do the crank test with a voltmeter. > > Expanding on Robert's observation that connections will fail under > load, if you hit the button and the bike doesn't crank AND the battery > voltage remains above 10v or so, you have a problem with supplying > enough current to the starter (or the starter's dead). That's when > it's time to go through all the connections, the solenoid (contacts in > solenoids go bad from time-to-time) with a fine-tooth comb. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "RobertWichert" > > To: "Jeff Khoury" > > Cc: "JWF" >, "DSN > KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 11:17:47 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Start Button Intermittent > > Yes, Jeff, but in my response I mentioned that a bad connection can > sometimes fail ONLY UNDER LOAD. This is not uncommon. Your test > cranking will check this. I don't know about Battery Tenders. > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng LEED AP > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > =============================================== > On 8/10/2011 4:01 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > I'm not Robert, but I'll try to answer: probably not. > > I test batteries like so: > > Inspect/Check/Tighten all connectors on the battery, solenoid and ground. > > Check fluid levels in battery (if required) > > Charge it on a slow rate overnight. > > Take off the charger and let it "rest" for an hour or so. > > Check the voltage with a meter (key off). Look for 11.8v or more. > > Turn the key on, watch the battery voltage while cranking. If the > voltage drops below 10v while cranking, you have a bad battery. > > Leave it off the tender/charger and try again the next day to see if > the battery will hold the charge. > > It's always worked for me. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "JWF" < jwflower53@... > > To: "DSN KLR650" < DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 3:35:43 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Start Button Intermittent > > Robert, would the Battery Tender show the battery as fully charged if > it was internally damaged? -JWF > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , RobertWichert wrote: > > > > Probably bad connection somewhere. I'd start at the battery terminals. > > Could be bad connection INSIDE the battery (shorted or disconnected > cells). > > > > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng LEED AP > > +1 916 966 9060 > > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =============================================== > > > > > > On 8/8/2011 8:33 AM, JWF wrote: > > > > > > Well, I finally put my A13 back together with the new Progressive > > > shock. Had had the battery out, on a Battery Tender. Didn't do any > > > electrical work. It started fine 12-20 times over three days. Then I > > > pressed Start and got this: > > > Sometimes nothing, no click, nothing. > > > Sometimes a single click. > > > Sometimes a series of clicks, sounds like rice crispies. > > > I've tried it with the lights on and off (I have the aftermarket left > > > hand control module that lets you turn off all the lights): Sometimes > > > all the lights work even when the button just clicks. But sometimes > > > they go off the first time I push the button. > > > Sometimes after all this fiddling, the button works and she starts > > > right up. > > > Last night I rode 20 miles after all this, and all seemed fine. > > > ONE: what's wrong? > > > TWO: is it safe to ride it in this condition, assuming it will keep > > > starting once in while, while I work on it? > > > Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks- JWF > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bill Watson]

Two of my riding buddies had this issue with their bikes too - an intermittent start button. In both cases, it was a bad starter relay. One guy got off easy - it just stopped working an some detective work with an ohm meter found the culprit. The other guy did NOT get off easy - his relay stuck closed... and we could not get it to stop cranking. Key off, big red switch off, still cranked and cranked and ran the battery dead before we could unload the luggage and get the tools out to disconnect the starter cable from the relay. This happened on the road in the middle of a multi-day trip. Not fun, and lots of un-necessary panic. Hope it doesn't happen to you. I now consider those relays to be something to check out when starter problems arise. Bill Watt-man [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Bowden]

Now that my bike has a mystery oil leak since replacing the right side case, the starter switch on the kickstand has started to fowl. I've been lucky and knudging the kickstand or letting it bounce closed a few times has fixed it.

On Aug 12, 2011 5:35 PM, "Bill Watson" wrote: > > > > Two of my riding buddies had this issue with their bikes too - an intermittent start button. In both cases, it was a bad starter relay. One guy got off easy - it just stopped working an some detective work with an ohm meter found the culprit. The other guy did NOT get off easy - his relay stuck closed... and we could not get it to stop cranking. Key off, big red switch off, still cranked and cranked and ran the battery dead before we could unload the luggage and get the tools out to disconnect the starter cable from the relay. This happened on the road in the middle of a multi-day trip. Not fun, and lots of un-necessary panic. > > Hope it doesn't happen to you. I now consider those relays to be something to check out when starter problems arise. > > > Bill > Watt-man > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[JWF]

Thanks for all the tips. I didn't meter-test anything, I just went over all the connections. They were DUSTY! I un-plugged plugs, disconnected leads, sprayed 'em with quick-dry contact cleaner, dielectric-greased 'em, hooked 'em all back up and I haven't able to recreate the problem since. If it does recur I'll do the tests suggested. Thanks again- JWF

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Bowden wrote: > > Now that my bike has a mystery oil leak since replacing the right side case, > the starter switch on the kickstand has started to fowl. I've been lucky and > knudging the kickstand or letting it bounce closed a few times has fixed it. > > > On Aug 12, 2011 5:35 PM, "Bill Watson" wrote: > > > > > > > > Two of my riding buddies had this issue with their bikes too - an > intermittent start button. In both cases, it was a bad starter relay. One > guy got off easy - it just stopped working an some detective work with an > ohm meter found the culprit. The other guy did NOT get off easy - his relay > stuck closed... and we could not get it to stop cranking. Key off, big red > switch off, still cranked and cranked and ran the battery dead before we > could unload the luggage and get the tools out to disconnect the starter > cable from the relay. This happened on the road in the middle of a > multi-day trip. Not fun, and lots of un-necessary panic. > > > > Hope it doesn't happen to you. I now consider those relays to be > something to check out when starter problems arise. > > > > > > Bill > > Watt-man > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "JWF" wrote:

> > Thanks for all the tips. I didn't meter-test anything, I just went over all the connections. They were DUSTY! I un-plugged plugs, disconnected leads, sprayed 'em with quick-dry contact cleaner, dielectric-greased 'em, hooked 'em all back up and I haven't able to recreate the problem since. If it does recur I'll do the tests suggested. Thanks again- JWF >

It would certainly be helpful if 'use-guys' quit writing about such problems. Seems my 98 bike has been reading the mail and wants to play along as well. I was getting along JUST fine until you chuckle heads starting whining about your bike not starting. Actually, I think this is a seasonal thing: all these starting issues center around those who are committing KLR adultery--looking at the Milwaukee chrome pirate ships pass through and they 'wish' they were heading for the holy city instead of required to love some 1976 wonder of technology called a KLR. They have been lusting after some of that 1950 technology of chrome and noise. Sigh. Will we ever learn...? Could I leave well enough alone? Oh, no. I had to go tell my girl, 'You would never do a thing like that to me, would you?' 'Leave me stranded without a hope? Other than a steep hill for a bump start?' Being the strong silent type with a std piston and original tweeting muffler, I got a look of indifference that only 85-octane gas at 6000 ft. could produce. And wouldn't you know, this is the second year in a row this girl has done this to me during the holy week of Sturgis...is there a connection? Last week riding with a posse of KLR riders during bike week, the start sequence became intermittent a couple of times. The 'local wisdom' suggested, that #$*@! start switch was acting up, just like on their bikes. Not my bike. Since it was a relatively new switch quadrant, I didn't think so...ultimately, it started, and never let me down. Then, yesterday, when I needed my lady for a therapeutic ride up Vanocker Canyon in the beautiful Black Hills...full battle KLR gear = ATGATT--and as sweat is starting to soak my shirt inside the mesh jacket Push the button to start and nothing. sigh. I look down at the front tire and the bike is READING the DSNKLR650 posts on a KINDLE! About how not to start! I raise my voice: KNOCK that OFF! hmmm. Houston: we have a problem. Off come the jacket, coat, and helmet. Kick a rock for good measure. Having just moved and amid all the chaos that creates--I have stumbled onto a moment of good fortune. Just that morning, I had located some garage chemicals that will help. maybe. Here it is: electrical contact cleaner "not recommended for broccoli" 'Requires adult supervision." Great. I go get my 15 year old so I won't hurt myself. cough. What ever will they think of next.... So, spray contact cleaner in the switch housing. Splash some on the gas tank for good measure. Miss getting it in my eyes. Note to self: Do not look down the length of the straw while aiming it into the switch housing. You 'might' get an eye full.... Hit the start switch. Nothing. Yes Virginia, the key is on and the kill switch in 'ON'. Houston: we still have a problem. Note: clutch safety and side stand disabled. So, that ain't it either. Kick another rock. Remove the black cover that hides the solenoid; Check the blade fuses; push-pull-poke around and now?--it starts. hmmmm. Not sure what I did, but never argue with success. so last night.... Re-read the post while the bike is NOT looking over my shoulder nor can she hear me talking to the computer screen. hmmm. It had multiple restarts, multiple times without fail. hmmm. Houston: never mind.... Starts several times today, then it must have remembered that it wants to take another nap. = aborts the start sequence again today. =won't start. grrrr. (good bright light, loud horn, fuse good.) hmmm. What did dat-brookline bumkin say? = guymanbro, tumu, Vermonster He say: Push the starter button and one finger massage the two-wire on the solenoid--whatdatya know: the lady wakes right up. At least, it is now isolated to the two wire. And a salt water bagel with LOX and black coffee. maybe. Will pull the black cover again tomorrow and give a good cleaning to the two-wire that activates the solenoid. Last Aug, the girl did this to me 30 miles outside of White Sulphur Springs, MT. Finally, we got her started, moved to a garage and cleaned the solenoid contacts then as well. Little di-electrical grease and another 5K smiles without a problem; until bike week. Maybe, its just something this bike likes to do...pretend it is a Harley. Both instances began during bike week. Yeah, that's it. Bike week blues. Maybe I should ask for Fred for one of those new sensors that will sense `LOW': dielectric grease on the solenoid. I bet there is not a single person out there with that farkle . revmaaatin. ps: thanks LIST: to all that reported their starter problems and those that offered advice. It actually made my life a lot easier. smile. I now have to figure out where I am going to put the LOW dielectric grease indicator.

[Fred Hink]

Good News Martin, I have in the works a pod that will mount to your handlebars that will include this dielectric grease indicator along with a muffler bearing life monitor and a blinker fluid level gauge. I ll let you know when I get all the bugs worked out. Your messages are informative and entertaining as always. Best wishes surviving Bike Week. Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: revmaaatin Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 11:12 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Start Button Intermittent

--- In mailto:DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "JWF" wrote: > > Thanks for all the tips. I didn't meter-test anything, I just went over all the connections. They were DUSTY! I un-plugged plugs, disconnected leads, sprayed 'em with quick-dry contact cleaner, dielectric-greased 'em, hooked 'em all back up and I haven't able to recreate the problem since. If it does recur I'll do the tests suggested. Thanks again- JWF > It would certainly be helpful if 'use-guys' quit writing about such problems. Seems my 98 bike has been reading the mail and wants to play along as well. I was getting along JUST fine until you chuckle heads starting whining about your bike not starting. Actually, I think this is a seasonal thing: all these starting issues center around those who are committing KLR adultery--looking at the Milwaukee chrome pirate ships pass through and they 'wish' they were heading for the holy city instead of required to love some 1976 wonder of technology called a KLR. They have been lusting after some of that 1950 technology of chrome and noise. Sigh. Will we ever learn...? Could I leave well enough alone? Oh, no. I had to go tell my girl, 'You would never do a thing like that to me, would you?' 'Leave me stranded without a hope? Other than a steep hill for a bump start?' Being the strong silent type with a std piston and original tweeting muffler, I got a look of indifference that only 85-octane gas at 6000 ft. could produce. And wouldn't you know, this is the second year in a row this girl has done this to me during the holy week of Sturgis...is there a connection? Last week riding with a posse of KLR riders during bike week, the start sequence became intermittent a couple of times. The 'local wisdom' suggested, that #$*@! start switch was acting up, just like on their bikes. Not my bike. Since it was a relatively new switch quadrant, I didn't think so...ultimately, it started, and never let me down. Then, yesterday, when I needed my lady for a therapeutic ride up Vanocker Canyon in the beautiful Black Hills...full battle KLR gear = ATGATT--and as sweat is starting to soak my shirt inside the mesh jacket Push the button to start and nothing. sigh. I look down at the front tire and the bike is READING the DSNKLR650 posts on a KINDLE! About how not to start! I raise my voice: KNOCK that OFF! hmmm. Houston: we have a problem. Off come the jacket, coat, and helmet. Kick a rock for good measure. Having just moved and amid all the chaos that creates--I have stumbled onto a moment of good fortune. Just that morning, I had located some garage chemicals that will help. maybe. Here it is: electrical contact cleaner "not recommended for broccoli" 'Requires adult supervision." Great. I go get my 15 year old so I won't hurt myself. cough. What ever will they think of next.... So, spray contact cleaner in the switch housing. Splash some on the gas tank for good measure. Miss getting it in my eyes. Note to self: Do not look down the length of the straw while aiming it into the switch housing. You 'might' get an eye full.... Hit the start switch. Nothing. Yes Virginia, the key is on and the kill switch in 'ON'. Houston: we still have a problem. Note: clutch safety and side stand disabled. So, that ain't it either. Kick another rock. Remove the black cover that hides the solenoid; Check the blade fuses; push-pull-poke around and now?--it starts. hmmmm. Not sure what I did, but never argue with success. so last night.... Re-read the post while the bike is NOT looking over my shoulder nor can she hear me talking to the computer screen. hmmm. It had multiple restarts, multiple times without fail. hmmm. Houston: never mind.... Starts several times today, then it must have remembered that it wants to take another nap. = aborts the start sequence again today. =won't start. grrrr. (good bright light, loud horn, fuse good.) hmmm. What did dat-brookline bumkin say? = guymanbro, tumu, Vermonster He say: Push the starter button and one finger massage the two-wire on the solenoid--whatdatya know: the lady wakes right up. At least, it is now isolated to the two wire. And a salt water bagel with LOX and black coffee. maybe. Will pull the black cover again tomorrow and give a good cleaning to the two-wire that activates the solenoid. Last Aug, the girl did this to me 30 miles outside of White Sulphur Springs, MT. Finally, we got her started, moved to a garage and cleaned the solenoid contacts then as well. Little di-electrical grease and another 5K smiles without a problem; until bike week. Maybe, its just something this bike likes to do...pretend it is a Harley. Both instances began during bike week. Yeah, that's it. Bike week blues. Maybe I should ask for Fred for one of those new sensors that will sense `LOW': dielectric grease on the solenoid. I bet there is not a single person out there with that farkle . revmaaatin. ps: thanks LIST: to all that reported their starter problems and those that offered advice. It actually made my life a lot easier. smile. I now have to figure out where I am going to put the LOW dielectric grease indicator. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bill Watson]

Rev, your posts always brighten my day. Thank you for posting! Watt-man ------------------------

>Push the button to start and nothing. sigh. >I look down at the front tire and the bike is READING the DSNKLR650 posts on a KINDLE! >About how not to start! >I raise my voice: >KNOCK that OFF!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[JWF]

Here's an update for those as can stand it. I. Starter circuit relay: Couldn't test it, it isn't there. The female plug is jumpered. Does this have to do with the clutch "safety" being disabled? I found the relay in the hellbox, marked "starter/clutch relay". But the identical relay behind the coolant reservoir seems to be the fan relay, not the clutch. And the clutch safety disable drlll at http://www.klr650.marknet.us/safetyswitch.html> doesn't involve the SC Relay at all. So I'm confused. II. Battery test (thanks Mr. Khoury for the easy instructions): it tested at 12.25 V with key off, 10.5 while cranking, after a night on the Battery Tender. Borderline I guess, and if it's not holding a charge it would have been lower than that when the starter button failed last time. But before that it worked @50 times over six days, and the battery hadn't been on the Tender in weeks. Yet again, I'm ashamed to say the bike was badly stored for three years, battery in place and no charger connected. And yet yet again, it started first crank when I finally rolled it out. It's sealed, no fluid to check. III. Starter relay: Per da Vermonster's tip, the plug came apart suspiciously easily. The holes in female end seem bigger than the pins in male end (story of my life). I cleaned the plug and used a lot of dielectric grease, then tested the relay: ok. On reinstall I tiewrapped the plug onto the relay. IV. Per general consensus and common sense (not always the same), I went more thoroughly through all (well, most) connections on the bike, cleaned, d-greased all. They were VERY dusty, but nothing broken as far as my eye could tell. I wish I'd been more scientific, tested the starter button before and after working on a given component, tested a component before as well as after working on it, and so on. All I know is that after doing all this stuff, it does start. Til next time... But hey, when it conked out in the Co-op lot saturday night, a homeless guy gave me a push. I gave him five bucks he didn't ask for, got invited to visit his car/home anytime, and I still got to the party before the beer in the tank bag got warm. PLUG FOR CYCLEPEDIA: Within hours of my asking, they added a photo of the "starter relay and starter circuit relay". -JWF

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "JWF" wrote: > > > > Thanks for all the tips. I didn't meter-test anything, I just went over all the connections. They were DUSTY! I un-plugged plugs, disconnected leads, sprayed 'em with quick-dry contact cleaner, dielectric-greased 'em, hooked 'em all back up and I haven't able to recreate the problem since. If it does recur I'll do the tests suggested. Thanks again- JWF > > > > It would certainly be helpful if 'use-guys' quit writing about such problems. Seems my 98 bike has been reading the mail and wants to play along as well. I was getting along JUST fine until you chuckle heads starting whining about your bike not starting. > > Actually, I think this is a seasonal thing: all these starting issues center around those who are committing KLR adultery--looking at the Milwaukee chrome pirate ships pass through and they 'wish' they were heading for the holy city instead of required to love some 1976 wonder of technology called a KLR. They have been lusting after some of that 1950 technology of chrome and noise. Sigh. Will we ever learn...? > > Could I leave well enough alone? > Oh, no. I had to go tell my girl, > 'You would never do a thing like that to me, would you?' > 'Leave me stranded without a hope? Other than a steep hill for a bump start?' > Being the strong silent type with a std piston and original tweeting muffler, I got a look of indifference that only 85-octane gas at 6000 ft. could produce. > > And wouldn't you know, this is the second year in a row this girl has done this to me during the holy week of Sturgis...is there a connection? Last week riding with a posse of KLR riders during bike week, the start sequence became intermittent a couple of times. The 'local wisdom' suggested, that #$*@! start switch was acting up, just like on their bikes. Not my bike. > Since it was a relatively new switch quadrant, I didn't think so...ultimately, it started, and never let me down. > > Then, yesterday, when I needed my lady for a therapeutic ride up Vanocker Canyon in the beautiful Black Hills...full battle KLR gear = ATGATT--and as sweat is starting to soak my shirt inside the mesh jacket > Push the button to start and nothing. sigh. > I look down at the front tire and the bike is READING the DSNKLR650 posts on a KINDLE! > About how not to start! > I raise my voice: > KNOCK that OFF! > > hmmm. > Houston: we have a problem. > Off come the jacket, coat, and helmet. > Kick a rock for good measure. > Having just moved and amid all the chaos that creates--I have stumbled onto a moment of good fortune. Just that morning, I had located some garage chemicals that will help. maybe. > > Here it is: electrical contact cleaner "not recommended for broccoli" > 'Requires adult supervision." > Great. > I go get my 15 year old so I won't hurt myself. cough. > What ever will they think of next.... > > So, spray contact cleaner in the switch housing. > Splash some on the gas tank for good measure. > Miss getting it in my eyes. > Note to self: Do not look down the length of the straw while aiming it into the switch housing. You 'might' get an eye full.... > > Hit the start switch. Nothing. > Yes Virginia, the key is on and the kill switch in 'ON'. > > Houston: we still have a problem. > Note: clutch safety and side stand disabled. So, that ain't it either. > Kick another rock. > > Remove the black cover that hides the solenoid; > Check the blade fuses; push-pull-poke around and now?--it starts. > hmmmm. > Not sure what I did, but never argue with success. so last night.... > Re-read the post while the bike is NOT looking over my shoulder nor can she hear me talking to the computer screen. > > hmmm. > It had multiple restarts, multiple times without fail. > hmmm. > Houston: never mind.... > Starts several times today, then it must have remembered that it wants to take another nap. > = aborts the start sequence again today. > =won't start. > grrrr. > (good bright light, loud horn, fuse good.) > > hmmm. > What did dat-brookline bumkin say? = guymanbro, tumu, Vermonster > He say: > Push the starter button and one finger massage the two-wire on the solenoid--whatdatya know: the lady wakes right up. > At least, it is now isolated to the two wire. > And a salt water bagel with LOX and black coffee. > maybe. > > Will pull the black cover again tomorrow and give a good cleaning to the two-wire that activates the solenoid. > > Last Aug, the girl did this to me 30 miles outside of White Sulphur Springs, MT. Finally, we got her started, moved to a garage and cleaned the solenoid contacts then as well. Little di-electrical grease and another 5K smiles without a problem; until bike week. > > Maybe, its just something this bike likes to do...pretend it is a Harley. Both instances began during bike week. > Yeah, that's it. > Bike week blues. > > Maybe I should ask for Fred for one of those new sensors that will sense `LOW': dielectric grease on the solenoid. I bet there is not a single person out there with that farkle . > > revmaaatin. > > ps: thanks LIST: to all that reported their starter problems and those that offered advice. > It actually made my life a lot easier. smile. > I now have to figure out where I am going to put the LOW dielectric grease indicator. >

[k650@verizon.net]

I. The only function of the starter circuit relay is to allow the addition of the safety switches. If you bypass like Marknet says the required ground for the ignition has to travel from the relay up to the handlebar switch and back again to the relay which can also fail. Removal of the relay eliminates the possibility of the relay failing and removes the wire loop to the handlebars from the circuit. This is the best way to bypass. II. Battery tests out good. III. This was your most likely culprit. IV. Good job. I would like to add if you did not do so already a good flush of the starter button with electrical contact cleaner once in a while is good practice. If you ride in a pack of riders on a dusty trail the airborne dirt particles can enter and foul the contacts. Walt -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of JWF Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 18:06 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Start Button Intermittent Here's an update for those as can stand it. I. Starter circuit relay: Couldn't test it, it isn't there. The female plug is jumpered. Does this have to do with the clutch "safety" being disabled? I found the relay in the hellbox, marked "starter/clutch relay". But the identical relay behind the coolant reservoir seems to be the fan relay, not the clutch. And the clutch safety disable drlll at http://www.klr650.marknet.us/safetyswitch.html> doesn't involve the SC Relay at all. So I'm confused. II. Battery test (thanks Mr. Khoury for the easy instructions): it tested at 12.25 V with key off, 10.5 while cranking, after a night on the Battery Tender. Borderline I guess, and if it's not holding a charge it would have been lower than that when the starter button failed last time. But before that it worked @50 times over six days, and the battery hadn't been on the Tender in weeks. Yet again, I'm ashamed to say the bike was badly stored for three years, battery in place and no charger connected. And yet yet again, it started first crank when I finally rolled it out. It's sealed, no fluid to check. III. Starter relay: Per da Vermonster's tip, the plug came apart suspiciously easily. The holes in female end seem bigger than the pins in male end (story of my life). I cleaned the plug and used a lot of dielectric grease, then tested the relay: ok. On reinstall I tiewrapped the plug onto the relay. IV. Per general consensus and common sense (not always the same), I went more thoroughly through all (well, most) connections on the bike, cleaned, d-greased all. They were VERY dusty, but nothing broken as far as my eye could tell. I wish I'd been more scientific, tested the starter button before and after working on a given component, tested a component before as well as after working on it, and so on. All I know is that after doing all this stuff, it does start. Til next time... But hey, when it conked out in the Co-op lot saturday night, a homeless guy gave me a push. I gave him five bucks he didn't ask for, got invited to visit his car/home anytime, and I still got to the party before the beer in the tank bag got warm. PLUG FOR CYCLEPEDIA: Within hours of my asking, they added a photo of the "starter relay and starter circuit relay". -JWF

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "JWF" wrote: > > > > Thanks for all the tips. I didn't meter-test anything, I just went over all the connections. They were DUSTY! I un-plugged plugs, disconnected leads, sprayed 'em with quick-dry contact cleaner, dielectric-greased 'em, hooked 'em all back up and I haven't able to recreate the problem since. If it does recur I'll do the tests suggested. Thanks again- JWF > > > > It would certainly be helpful if 'use-guys' quit writing about such problems. Seems my 98 bike has been reading the mail and wants to play along as well. I was getting along JUST fine until you chuckle heads starting whining about your bike not starting. > > Actually, I think this is a seasonal thing: all these starting issues center around those who are committing KLR adultery--looking at the Milwaukee chrome pirate ships pass through and they 'wish' they were heading for the holy city instead of required to love some 1976 wonder of technology called a KLR. They have been lusting after some of that 1950 technology of chrome and noise. Sigh. Will we ever learn...? > > Could I leave well enough alone? > Oh, no. I had to go tell my girl, > 'You would never do a thing like that to me, would you?' > 'Leave me stranded without a hope? Other than a steep hill for a bump start?' > Being the strong silent type with a std piston and original tweeting muffler, I got a look of indifference that only 85-octane gas at 6000 ft. could produce. > > And wouldn't you know, this is the second year in a row this girl has done this to me during the holy week of Sturgis...is there a connection? Last week riding with a posse of KLR riders during bike week, the start sequence became intermittent a couple of times. The 'local wisdom' suggested, that #$*@! start switch was acting up, just like on their bikes. Not my bike. > Since it was a relatively new switch quadrant, I didn't think so...ultimately, it started, and never let me down. > > Then, yesterday, when I needed my lady for a therapeutic ride up Vanocker Canyon in the beautiful Black Hills...full battle KLR gear = ATGATT--and as sweat is starting to soak my shirt inside the mesh jacket > Push the button to start and nothing. sigh. > I look down at the front tire and the bike is READING the DSNKLR650 posts on a KINDLE! > About how not to start! > I raise my voice: > KNOCK that OFF! > > hmmm. > Houston: we have a problem. > Off come the jacket, coat, and helmet. > Kick a rock for good measure. > Having just moved and amid all the chaos that creates--I have stumbled onto a moment of good fortune. Just that morning, I had located some garage chemicals that will help. maybe. > > Here it is: electrical contact cleaner "not recommended for broccoli" > 'Requires adult supervision." > Great. > I go get my 15 year old so I won't hurt myself. cough. > What ever will they think of next.... > > So, spray contact cleaner in the switch housing. > Splash some on the gas tank for good measure. > Miss getting it in my eyes. > Note to self: Do not look down the length of the straw while aiming it into the switch housing. You 'might' get an eye full.... > > Hit the start switch. Nothing. > Yes Virginia, the key is on and the kill switch in 'ON'. > > Houston: we still have a problem. > Note: clutch safety and side stand disabled. So, that ain't it either. > Kick another rock. > > Remove the black cover that hides the solenoid; > Check the blade fuses; push-pull-poke around and now?--it starts. > hmmmm. > Not sure what I did, but never argue with success. so last night.... > Re-read the post while the bike is NOT looking over my shoulder nor can she hear me talking to the computer screen. > > hmmm. > It had multiple restarts, multiple times without fail. > hmmm. > Houston: never mind.... > Starts several times today, then it must have remembered that it wants to take another nap. > = aborts the start sequence again today. > =won't start. > grrrr. > (good bright light, loud horn, fuse good.) > > hmmm. > What did dat-brookline bumkin say? = guymanbro, tumu, Vermonster > He say: > Push the starter button and one finger massage the two-wire on the solenoid--whatdatya know: the lady wakes right up. > At least, it is now isolated to the two wire. > And a salt water bagel with LOX and black coffee. > maybe. > > Will pull the black cover again tomorrow and give a good cleaning to the two-wire that activates the solenoid. > > Last Aug, the girl did this to me 30 miles outside of White Sulphur Springs, MT. Finally, we got her started, moved to a garage and cleaned the solenoid contacts then as well. Little di-electrical grease and another 5K smiles without a problem; until bike week. > > Maybe, its just something this bike likes to do...pretend it is a Harley. Both instances began during bike week. > Yeah, that's it. > Bike week blues. > > Maybe I should ask for Fred for one of those new sensors that will sense `LOW': dielectric grease on the solenoid. I bet there is not a single person out there with that farkle.. > > revmaaatin. > > ps: thanks LIST: to all that reported their starter problems and those that offered advice. > It actually made my life a lot easier. smile. > I now have to figure out where I am going to put the LOW dielectric grease indicator. > ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links

[KLRDON]

**SOLD** For sale - one pair of BMW Summer 2 nylon riding pants in tan, Size M. Hip & knee armor inserts, legs zip off at knees, web belt included. The 'shorts' part is lined with a black nylon mesh. Never worn but laundered once - did you know that running these through the dryer will shrink them? I do now! DOH! Must be air dryed, which they will fairly quickly. Anyway, they won't fit me and I bumped up to a Large. The waist measures 34 1/2 inches around so if interested, carefully measure a pair of pants that you find comfortable. The rise is 26 inches (measured from waist band in front under crotch to the waist band at the rear). Retail is about $200, these are $150 delivered to Lower 48. Email me - dmontg-at-comcast -dot-net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]