nklr carburator questions 2009 klr

[guymanbro]

Sheesh, then I must be downright manic... 14/45 most o' the time (but I do have a 16 if'n I'm gonna do a long haul on the interhates. As for running at high rpms... Pshaw! If it ain't at the red line, then the Kawi engineers have given me the green light. If I burn a little oil, then so be it. It's pretty easy to check it. My last KLR didn't blow up becausse I ran it hard (well, kinda), it blew up because I bent the frame just enough to prevent a valve check without removing the motor from the frame and I made a conscious decision to run it til it wouldn't. da Vermonster (is flame proof and his bike is bulletproof)

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Brent Tegler" wrote: > > I think gearing reflects your personality... if you are a laid back cool dude 16/43 is your ride... for someone more aggressive 15/43 and if you are truly frenetic go for 14/43... > > Brent > Tengai rider Fergus Canada (16/43) > > ________________________________ > > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com on behalf of roncriswell@... > Sent: Thu 02/09/2010 4:32 PM > To: Jeffrey > Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Rev,Sprocket choice's > > > > > I ride mine all the time at 80 indicated at about 5200 rpm with stock gearing. 53,000 miles with no problems. I have heard the 16 gives you problems against a strong headwind and up steep hills so I haven't bothered. Plus you have to make the clutch work too much in dirt stuff. > > Criswell > > On Sep 1, 2010, at 10:14 PM, Jeffrey wrote: > > > > > I guess the engineers/techies hate my 16/43 favorite setup. The stock( and currently on my bike)15/43 is good for the dirt. But, coming back from tech day in San Diego to LA on the fwy, I sure missed 16/43. > > So, the 16/43 requires more clutch on the dirt; the KLR has plenty of torque. > > The major complaint about 16/43 that I agree with is that dn very steep dirt hills, you don't get enough engine/compression braking. > > Keeping the revs up high to maintain 80+ on the fwy with 15/43 cannot be good for a big heavy piston (inertia) 1 cylinder thumper. > > For those that ride fwy/open hwy and dirt, 16/43 makes sense unless you drive like grandma. > > Jeffry 3 >

[Harry Seifert]

Robert,Sorry to hear about your father.As Fred has said, that additives in "new" gas are the culprits.  I stored an '88 Hawk with a full tank of fresh major brand gas and by the next spring I needed a new gas tank because of the severe rust build up on the inside.  The oxygenators put in Cali fuel are forms of alcohol which are very hydroscopic and will absorb very significant amounts of water.  A friend of mine builds high performance rescue saws based on Jonsserud of Husquvarna 2 stroke power heads and will not warranty a saw that has been run on pump gas.  Trick or VP racing fuel only.  He found in early testing that ordinary pump gas absorbs water and separates the oil from the fuel in the two stroke mix.  A little lead for octane boost and no oxygenators to absorb water.  His saws pull 15K+ RPM and his bullet chain will cut through any roof or surface.  Check out Cutter's Edge on Google.

On Aug 20, 2010, at 7:27 AM, RobertWichert wrote: I learned an interesting lesson on "clean fresh gas" last weekend.  My father died in June, and we are cleaning out his garage.  Some stuff in there was from when I was a kid (too long ago to mention, but suffice it to say, that there is some old stuff in there).  I found a gas can.  It is plastic, so it couldn't be forty years old, but I didn't know how old it was.  It had gas in it, or at least it smelled like gas, so I put some in the lawn mower.  I mean, it's a lawn mower, how finicky can it be?  Well I found out.  It wouldn't even start choked.  I had to drain it all out, and even with fresh gas, it didn't run right for a few minutes. I had no idea that gas becomes unusable. I now know for a fact that "old gas", if it's old enough, won't even run a lawn mower! Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ======================================================== On 8/19/2010 4:09 PM, Fred Hink wrote: I have installed a few jet kits in my day.  Drilling the slide won't effect the fuel mixture but will change the speed at which the slide reacts to your throttle input.  It's a vacuum port in the slide that you are enlarging.  This will make your bike feel like it has more power because the slide opens quicker.  Shimming the needle will enrichen the midrange where you drive most often and should allow for a slight power increase along with a slight decrease in your fuel mileage. Your bike runs pretty lean most of the time and going up in elevation will help richen the mixture but because there is less oxygen at higher elevations you will feel like you have less power.  The KLR with the stock carb should run ok for a short duration at elevation.  If you are going to live at higher elevations then it might be a good idea to rejet for this elevation.  Just be sure if you go to lower elevations that you will need richer jetting or risk the chance of major engine damage.  Just ask Lew Waterman. (Punky n Lew)  Anybody remember them? The stock carburator is actually pretty simple compared to some other model  bikes.  It is fairly reliable and shouldn't give you any trouble as long as you keep clean fresh gas in it. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] bejou.mn@...[b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, August 19, 2010 4:50 PM[b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com[b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Carburator Questions 2009 KLR  1. How many of you have done the drill the slide and shim the needle? Does it make that big of difference? Should I do it? 2. Reading my Clymer manual this carburator looks quite complicated. Do they give much of a problem? 3. In Oct I'am going to be in CO Springs and would like to go up Pikes Pike. Will a stock bike run at 14,100 feet? Thanks Brad 2009 KLR