electical problem

[Kevin Powers]

Arrowhead has the prevailing torque nut, which is definitely the way to go if you ever change front sprockets for different gearing. -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 8:00 PM, Dooden wrote: > > > Assume its factory tight.My electric impact just rattled and rattled > > Wife standing on rear brake, I used a 1/2" breakerbar with a cheater pipe > over the handle, and really had to pull hard to the point the brake was > slipping alot, but persistance prevailed. > > Now have air impacts (1/2") I am pretty sure might have taken it off. > > Of course its been torqued to ut um my spec. Goodentight > > No idea why the factory made it so tight. (Japan = 2001 model) > > Good Luck, it will come off, worse case cut it with a dremel and install a > prevailing torque nut. Jake (RIP) used to sell them, surely somebody has > filled the void. > > Also assume your talking about the front sprocket "nut" not bolt. > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , > matteeanne@... wrote: > > > > Lefty loosy? My impact driver would not budge it, I am using a 24" torque > driver, still no luck. What am I doing wrong? > > Sean Brown > > Looking for the perfect gift for the wife/Mom/or "the person who has > everything?" > > www.brownsbirdestates.com > matteeanne@... > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Rick McCauley > > To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 3:33:27 PM > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Removing front sprocket bolt > > > > > > Save youself a lot of headaches Matt. > > Get a half inch drive impact gun. If you don't have a compressor, get an > electric one. > > You won't even have to step on the brake. > > > > Rick > > A17 > > > > ____________ _________ _________ __ > > From: "matteeanne@yahoo. com" > > To: fasteddiecopeman ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogro > ups.com > > Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 5:21:01 PM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Removing front sprocket bolt > > > > > > > > Seen it done, never done it. I flatten the washer, press on the brake > (with chain still on bike) and it's lefty loosy right? I'm reefing and it's > not budging. I'm a dumb ass, what am I doing wrong? > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, matteeanne@... wrote:

> > Lefty loosy? My impact driver would not budge it, I am using a 24" torque driver, still no luck. What am I doing wrong?

Get the washer really, really flat. I reefed so hard I thought I was going to tear a bicep. I had a couple feet of pipe on a half-inch breaker bar, and broke one cheap socket. It finally came loose. Did I mention you have to really flatten that washer out? I resolved never to go through that again and replaced the nut with one of Jake's prevailing torque nuts.

[Rick McCauley]

A chisel on one corner of the nut, smack it with a hammer, and that will pop loose the tightest of nuts. If it doesn't work after a couple tries, then by all means, stop. And I certainly wouldn't use a sledge hammer, but the smack you generate with an average hammer isn't any worse on the shaft, bearings, and seal, than a power shift, trying to do a burn out, or any number of abusive stunts we do in every day riding. Rick A17 ________________________________ From: Jeff Saline To: matteeanne@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 6:38:06 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Removing front sprocket bolt On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:21:01 -0700 (PDT) matteeanne@yahoo. com writes:

> > Seen it done, never done it. I flatten the washer, press on the > brake (with chain still on bike) and it's lefty loosy right? I'm > reefing and it's not budging. I'm a dumb ass, what am I doing wrong?

<><><><><><> <><> <><><><><><> <><> My suggestion is to not hit it with a hammer and chisel as that will only damage parts you don't want damaged. I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar called Big Mikey. Mikey is about 18" long and hefty. I suggest you put it in 5th gear, on the side stand, get on the right side of the bike. Put the socket and breaker bar on the nut (you've already flattened the washer) step on the brake with one foot. Put your stomach on the seat and grab the breaker bar with it about even with the swing arm. Use two hands. Make sure the socket is really on the nut. Then put some pressure on the breaker bar. Make sure you have the rear brake pedal depressed. Then believe you will loosen the nut and give a mighty jerk. Don't try to ease it off. Jerk on it. That should break it loose so you can reposition the breaker bar and repeat as needed. It will be much easier if you decide you are going to remove it with the first jerk on the breaker bar. Believe you will loosen it and I think you will. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here! http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ fc/BLSrjpTFoYboQ LTrt9iJ1Mck6RJWY UcNpiBlQZw8VeROw Ghp9wc8kEfMoeM/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:

> > At 1:05 AM +0000 9/24/09, Dooden wrote: > >Except adding a pipe over the handle of the breaker bar really can > >increase the leverage... Trust me.. I have broken a couple of > >them in my time. > > LOL... after my fourth visit to Sears for killing one Craftsman 1/2" > drive ratchet and snapping off three Craftsman 1/2" drive breaker > bars while trying to remove the pulley nut from an old SAAB, I gave > up and told the clerk he won't be seeing me any more that day. > Love that warranty. > > Mark >

Yup gotta love it, I have a collection of ratchets in the top of the toolbox waiting to go and be replaced. Shame they do not include a box of bandaids with each replacement. Dooden A15 Green Ape

[denvowell@aol.com]

I took Jeff Kourny & Jeff Saline's advice.I started at the starter button and followed all the wires back. I could find nothing obvious. I put tape on any areas that could come in contact with the frame & cable tied where needed. The only questionable thing I found was where the end of wire from the starter button has a red connecter that is a little loose where it plugs in under dash. I put it all back together and it seems fine now. I hope the problem is solved. Thank you Jeff's Dennis A18 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]