klr wheels change over the years?

[John]

I am just doing the 6,000 mile valve check. I did it the first time at about 1100 miles and got... LEXH- .203mm, REXH- .203mm, LINT- .152mm, RINT- .127mm. I just checked them again and got exactly the same results. I thought the clearances were supposed to close up over time, requiring smaller shims. Is this typical? The exhaust valves are still right in the middle of the spec range but the RINT is in the lower 25% of the range. Do I gain anything by swapping the shims now, or should I just button it all back up and check again in another 6,000 miles, especially since nothing has changed from last time. I don't necessarily want to pull the cams off, since there is no requirement to do so. Do I really gain anything by opening the clearances up a bit (to the upper end of the spec)? Thanks, John A-18

[Rodney Copeland]

Conceivably, less clearance means more lift and to some extent better performance. I like to ride and don't care much about squeezin every bit of performance out of my Hoss KLR. I do however, dread missin a ridin day to do maintenance. Most,including myself set to max clearance for that very reason. Hope this helps, Rod

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John" wrote: > I am just doing the 6,000 mile valve check. I did it the first time at > about 1100 miles and got... LEXH- .203mm, REXH- .203mm, LINT- .152mm, > RINT- .127mm. I just checked them again and got exactly the same > results. I thought the clearances were supposed to close up over time, > requiring smaller shims. Is this typical? The exhaust valves are still > right in the middle of the spec range but the RINT is in the lower 25% > of the range. Do I gain anything by swapping the shims now, or should I > just button it all back up and check again in another 6,000 miles, > especially since nothing has changed from last time. > > I don't necessarily want to pull the cams off, since there is no > requirement to do so. Do I really gain anything by opening the > clearances up a bit (to the upper end of the spec)? > > Thanks, > > John > A-18

[Matt Brooks]

Alright, so I am finally at my 500 mile mark, and just changed the oil, and have the valve shims out. Before I put in the new ones I thought I would run the sizes by everyone here to make sure I am correct. I am hoping to get them at the loose end of the specs. Here's my numbers: Left exhaust was at 0.006 with a 255 shim, I was going to put in a 245 Right exhaust was at 0.006 with a 255 shim, so I was going the same, Left intake was 0.004 with a 260 shim, I was going to put in a 250, Right intake wa 0.006 with a 260 shim, I was going to put in a 255. Am I doing this right? This is my first time ever messing with valves before, but so far all is going smoothly (almost tooooo smoothly). So before I f anything up and put in the wrong size shims, could someone here please tell me if I'm on the right track. I have the shim kit from Arrowhead and am ready to put back together now. I have all the shims I need. Thanks, Matt B. 06 GREEN who is totally excited to see his new bike in a ton of pieces in the garage! What a way to spend Memorial Day Weekend (besides riding)

[Walter Mitty]

The shims you suggest will put all valves at the max end of the range. I perfer mine in the middle. Putting one size larger than your suggested shims will put you in the middle of the range. Matt Brooks wrote: Alright, so I am finally at my 500 mile mark, and just changed the oil, and have the valve shims out. Before I put in the new ones I thought I would run the sizes by everyone here to make sure I am correct. I am hoping to get them at the loose end of the specs. Here's my numbers: Left exhaust was at 0.006 with a 255 shim, I was going to put in a 245 Right exhaust was at 0.006 with a 255 shim, so I was going the same, Left intake was 0.004 with a 260 shim, I was going to put in a 250, Right intake wa 0.006 with a 260 shim, I was going to put in a 255. Am I doing this right? This is my first time ever messing with valves before, but so far all is going smoothly (almost tooooo smoothly). So before I f anything up and put in the wrong size shims, could someone here please tell me if I'm on the right track. I have the shim kit from Arrowhead and am ready to put back together now. I have all the shims I need. Thanks, Matt B. 06 GREEN who is totally excited to see his new bike in a ton of pieces in the garage! What a way to spend Memorial Day Weekend (besides riding) Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2 /min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bryan Burke]

Hopefully the KLR gurus out there can help me out on a valve clearance question. I was planning to take off on a 10 day ride next Tuesday and was going through the usual maintenance. Looking at my log, I realized I was due for a valve clearance check, and last time I did that my valves were getting near the limit. Well, they are way out of limit now, so I'll end up driving rather than riding. But here's my question: does the KLR start out with a stock set of shims, or does the factory drop 'em into each motor depending on how the thing fits together during assembly? I'm asking because I'll have to order shims, and I'd like to do it before I take off, but I don't want to pull the whole top end apart and leave it for two weeks. (Today I put the head back on loosely and closed up the engine to keep the dust out.) The KLR is in an aircraft maintenance hangar and might need to be moved while I'm away, so tearing it all up to pull out the existing shims doesn't make sense, until I get back. If I can order now, it will save me a few days. If the bikes do come with a stock valve shims, here are my current specs: Rt. Intake, .05. Was .12 4,800 miles ago. L Intake, .04. Was .10 4,800 miles ago. Rt. Exhaust, .08. Was .20 " " L Exhaust, .05. Was .15 4,500 " " Obviously I need to get some thinner shims, so is there a way to figure out what size without pulling the whole cam/lifter section apart? Also, is it usual for the clearance to drop that fast? I did the last check at 11,900 miles, and now I'm at 16,700, so just under 5,000 miles from barely within spec to substantially below. Thanks, Bryan in Arizona

[Spike55]

I know where you want to go but you can't get there from here. Others will has have a lot more experience than me but you have to know what the current shim is on each valve that is producing the clearance (lack of) that you have measured. My '06 had two different shim sizes (3 one size) so I doubt there is a "reliable" standard exhaust or intake shim that you could bet on. No local dealer? My local will exchange an old shim for a used (new to me) thinner one that will increase the gap. You might have to hang up the spurs for a week or two. Don R100, A6F -- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Bryan Burke" wrote:

> > Hopefully the KLR gurus out there can help me out on a valve > clearance question. I was planning to take off on a 10 day ride

next

> Tuesday and was going through the usual maintenance. Looking at my > log, I realized I was due for a valve clearance check, and last

time

> I did that my valves were getting near the limit. > > Well, they are way out of limit now, so I'll end up driving rather > than riding. But here's my question: does the KLR start out with a > stock set of shims, or does the factory drop 'em into each motor > depending on how the thing fits together during assembly? I'm

asking

> because I'll have to order shims, and I'd like to do it before I

take

> off, but I don't want to pull the whole top end apart and leave it > for two weeks. (Today I put the head back on loosely and closed up > the engine to keep the dust out.) The KLR is in an aircraft > maintenance hangar and might need to be moved while I'm away, so > tearing it all up to pull out the existing shims doesn't make

sense,

> until I get back. If I can order now, it will save me a few days. > > If the bikes do come with a stock valve shims, here are my current > specs: > Rt. Intake, .05. Was .12 4,800 miles ago. > L Intake, .04. Was .10 4,800 miles ago. > Rt. Exhaust, .08. Was .20 " " > L Exhaust, .05. Was .15 4,500 " " > > Obviously I need to get some thinner shims, so is there a way to > figure out what size without pulling the whole cam/lifter section > apart? > > Also, is it usual for the clearance to drop that fast? I did the

last

> check at 11,900 miles, and now I'm at 16,700, so just under 5,000 > miles from barely within spec to substantially below. > > Thanks, > > Bryan in Arizona >

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 22:58:45 -0000 "Bryan Burke" writes:

> Hopefully the KLR gurus out there can help me out on a valve > clearance question. I was planning to take off on a 10 day ride next > > Tuesday and was going through the usual maintenance. Looking at my > log, I realized I was due for a valve clearance check, and last time > > I did that my valves were getting near the limit. > > Well, they are way out of limit now, so I'll end up driving rather > than riding. But here's my question: does the KLR start out with a > stock set of shims, or does the factory drop 'em into each motor > depending on how the thing fits together during assembly? I'm asking > > because I'll have to order shims, and I'd like to do it before I > take > off, but I don't want to pull the whole top end apart and leave it > for two weeks. (Today I put the head back on loosely and closed up > the engine to keep the dust out.) The KLR is in an aircraft > maintenance hangar and might need to be moved while I'm away, so > tearing it all up to pull out the existing shims doesn't make sense, > > until I get back. If I can order now, it will save me a few days. > > If the bikes do come with a stock valve shims, here are my current > specs: > Rt. Intake, .05. Was .12 4,800 miles ago. > L Intake, .04. Was .10 4,800 miles ago. > Rt. Exhaust, .08. Was .20 " " > L Exhaust, .05. Was .15 4,500 " " > > Obviously I need to get some thinner shims, so is there a way to > figure out what size without pulling the whole cam/lifter section > apart? > > Also, is it usual for the clearance to drop that fast? I did the > last > check at 11,900 miles, and now I'm at 16,700, so just under 5,000 > miles from barely within spec to substantially below. > > Thanks, > > Bryan in Arizona

<><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><> Bryan, I'm gonna guess you are working in metric measurements since I'm doubting those are in inches. My suggestion is to change to inch measurements as it will make your shim calculations much easier. Exhaust clearances are 0.15-0.25mm or 0.006-0.010" Intakes clearances are 0.10-0.20mm or 0.004-0.008" Shim thickness changes 0.05mm or 0.002" for each shim size change. The number on the shim correspond to the thickness of the shim in mms. So a 265 shim is 2.65mm. Next size down is 260 or 2.60mm. The shims from the factory can be installed before the head is ever mounted to the engine. Once the cams are bolted in place the clearance can be checked and adjusted. There is no stock shim size that the bikes start out with. Each valve is adjusted based on what it needs. How many times the technicians assembling the head adjusts or how close they get to the max clearance is unknown to me. But it seems from some data I collected from list members last spring that the most common shim sizes to find in the head from the factory, in no particular order, will be 275, 270, 265 and 260. I've never heard of anyone finding a 280 or larger shim and doubt they are even available. The only way to know what shim size you have for each valve is to remove the shim and check the number on it. Numbers are placed "down" when correctly installed in the bucket as that keeps the cam from rubbing them off. That is also the only way to calculate what the correct new shim size should be. When you adjust the valves using shims you can not always get to the exact maximum clearance because shims are only available in certain sizes. So acceptable clearances after adjustment would be: Exhaust 0.009" or 0.010" Intake 0.007" or 0.008" I'm gonna take a second here to remind other readers that your situation is a prime example of why many folks suggest soon after you get a KLR you check the valves and even if they are within specs remove the shims and record the sizes. And since you are removing the shims to record the sizes adjust the clearances to the large end of the spec. If you had taken the extra 15-30 minutes to do that when you checked your valves 4,800 smiles ago you'd be able to calculate which shims you'd need. Now the only way to figure it out is to take the shims out and see what's in there, calculate the new sizes, get them, install them and check again to make sure you have clearances on the large side of the spec. Also it would be handy for next time to record the new shim sizes and locations. : ) Hopefully your situation will save someone else from changing trip plans because of valve clearance issues. I would tell you your valve movement is normal and at least within reasonable bounds. I believe once you adjust your clearances to the large end of the spec they will probably be very stable for 10,000 to 20,000 miles. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Orlando Vacations - Click Here! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nK7u5pcNnTCx4eN7aMDDG2CUihHVHjJZeGwHhJmvTJVYJV6/

[Harry Seifert]

On the torquing schedule.........30%, 60%, 90% and the final pass at 100%. Sorry for the incomplete previous. SoCal is freakin' fryin' right now. Late August temps and fire conditions in June!!! Buddy bseifert71@...

> [Original Message] > From: Harry Seifert > To: The Reverend ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 6/22/2008 2:38:16 PM > Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] KLR wheels change over the years? > > Uh, yup to both. > > My relaced '99 front came from a used front end setup off a '90. The most > difficult part of the relacing party (Eagle Mike, Mark Bakarich and me) we > had was trying to remove the spokes in one piece. Way too much corrosion > between the steel of the spokes and rim and the bronze of the nipples. So, > that wasn't happening, so we used a bigass angle grinder to cut the spokes > to free the hubs. We replaced the stock rims with 18" Excel rims, heavy > duty spokes and nipples from Buchanan Spoke and Rim in LA. With a little > patience, agile fingers and a decent truing stands, we got three wheels > laced and trued to better than OEM stds in less than an hour and a half. > Eagle Mike took pix throughout our little adventure, so I'll ask him to

put

> up the pix and a narrative on the leftcoastklr site. > > Also, it really helped to have one of Buchanan's spoke torque wrenches > during the relacing. We used it after we got everything finger tight. > Remember, when you get down to getting the nipples equally torqued, you go > from opposite spoke to opposite spoke around the wheel 'til you get back

to

> the spoke you started at and increase the torque incrementally as you go > around.......... 30% of the torque value for three passes and the final > pass at 100% of the torque value, I sure as hell don't remember the final > torque value, so maybe Eagle Mike will chime in here. > > Buddy > bseifert71@... > > > > [Original Message] > > From: The Reverend > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > Date: 6/22/2008 1:58:13 PM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR wheels change over the years? > > > > I'm looking for new rims and was wondering if they changed over the

years.

> > > > Will a '91 set of rims just swap in to a 2001 KLR? Also, if I were to > > re-lace them, would they be identical (amount of spokes etc) to the 2001 > > rims? (possible swap of hubs between them). > > > > If not - when did they change? What years would be the same rims as my > 2001? > > > > Thanks > > Rev > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links > > >