how to eval a helmet

[Luke in Brooklyn]

I've read of several people using the bladder from box-o-wines for fuel. They'd stored fuel in the things for several weeks to see if they degrade (they didn't seem to) and then packed them along on trips. You want to not quite fill them all the way because the fuel can expand a good bit... I've not heard of one rupturing, but I've seen pictures of them pretty swollen up. Do a search on advrider about it. I know there was a thread up about a couple guys who were in Angola with them somewhat recently, but I've seen it a number of times. When empty, they're pretty small, or you can toss it and not sweat the cost. Luke wildlands1 wrote: anyone ever heard of using a MSR water bag for gas on a tour? if gas wouldnt eat up the plastic it'd be a handy way to carry an exta 10L of gas in each front/tank pannier that could simply be rolled up and stowed when not in use. but you'd wanta make sure and NOT use 'em for water afterwards. think it'd work? List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links Brooklyn NY 92 CB750 nighthawk--naked simpleton 03 KLR650--fat girl with a dirty mind --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Zachariah Mully]

On Mon, 2008-02-04 at 11:40 -0800, Luke in Brooklyn wrote:

> I've read of several people using the bladder from box-o-wines for > fuel. They'd stored fuel in the things for several weeks to see if > they degrade (they didn't seem to) and then packed them along on > trips. You want to not quite fill them all the way because the fuel > can expand a good bit... I've not heard of one rupturing, but I've > seen pictures of them pretty swollen up.

In pinch, I'm sure they'd work fine, but I'd be worried about their durability. As someone suggested, soda bottles are a much better choice. Near indestructible, and will take well above 150psi before they explode. Try that with a wine bag. Z

[trekbikeboy]

I think the problem with soda bottles is you need to be wary of the static electricity. Spark, go boom!!! -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Zachariah Mully Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2008 07:12 To: Luke in Brooklyn Cc: wildlands1; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] extra gas in a MSR "Dromedary" water bag?

On Mon, 2008-02-04 at 11:40 -0800, Luke in Brooklyn wrote: > I've read of several people using the bladder from box-o-wines for > fuel. They'd stored fuel in the things for several weeks to see if > they degrade (they didn't seem to) and then packed them along on > trips. You want to not quite fill them all the way because the fuel > can expand a good bit... I've not heard of one rupturing, but I've > seen pictures of them pretty swollen up. In pinch, I'm sure they'd work fine, but I'd be worried about their durability. As someone suggested, soda bottles are a much better choice. Near indestructible, and will take well above 150psi before they explode. Try that with a wine bag. Z [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Zachariah Mully]

On Tue, 2008-02-05 at 16:56 +1000, trekbikeboy wrote:

> I think the problem with soda bottles is you need to be wary of the static > electricity. Spark, go boom!!!

And how exactly is this significantly any different than filling up a plastic gas can or an IMS tank? Or the regular KLR tank? It's not. Z

[trekbikeboy]

Apparently the containers made to hold fuel are different in that static electricity does not build up in them. If you try to fill a container not approved for fuel at a service station in Oz they will quickly stop the pump. There are signs everywhere that fuel is only to be pumped into "approved" containers ie metal or plastic designed to hold fuel. They even go so far as to make sure you put instructions up to make sure you do it correctly. G -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Zachariah Mully Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2008 17:54 To: trekbikeboy Cc: 'Luke in Brooklyn'; 'wildlands1'; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] extra gas in a MSR "Dromedary" water bag?

On Tue, 2008-02-05 at 16:56 +1000, trekbikeboy wrote: > I think the problem with soda bottles is you need to be wary of the static > electricity. Spark, go boom!!! And how exactly is this significantly any different than filling up a plastic gas can or an IMS tank? Or the regular KLR tank? It's not. Z [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Zachariah Mully]

On Tue, 2008-02-05 at 16:56 +1000, trekbikeboy wrote:

> I think the problem with soda bottles is you need to be wary of the static > electricity. Spark, go boom!!! > > >

I deleted your second message but basically it doesn't matter what type of container you are filling up with gas, the static electricity potential is there regardless because the generation of static electricity has NOTHING TO DO with container material. SE at pumps is caused by the flow of the gasoline through the dispensing nozzle. So unless you're getting your gas into your tank some other way, you are ALWAYS at risk, metal tank, fiberglass tank, plastic tank, it doesn't matter. Obviously putting the gas into a perfectly grounded container minimizes this risk substantially, but our vehicles are very poorly grounded, probably more so than a plastic 2qt container sitting directly on the pavement. You can reduce the SE buildup by filling the tank slower, as the lower velocity of the gas generates less SE. And too boot, most plastic gas cans here in the States are polyethylene, which is, yes, in the same plastic family as soda bottles. As for Aussie can regulations, I'm sure it's just as much of a nanny state as the US is, so it's for your own good! Z

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "trekbikeboy" wrote:

> Apparently the containers made to hold fuel are different in that static > electricity does not build up in them. If you try to fill a

container not

> approved for fuel at a service station in Oz they will quickly stop the > pump.

Here in Murka we don't have service stations anymore except in a couple of states, we have convenience stores with gas pumps out front, and the convenience store clerk wouldn't know an approved container if it jumped up and bit her on the nose. That said, a "real" plastic gas can is probably a better way of carrying a gallon of fuel than two 2-liter bottles, and probably easier to secure to your KLR too.

[Greg May]

Good timing on the Motorcyclist article, the up to speed section of the the Feb. 08 has some infomation on the new Snell 2010 testing and might be the Part 2 that was referred to. I personally have been using a Dot / Snell approved CKC helmet (approx $150 i believe) and find it good for long rides. In the past I've had everything including Shoei, Nolan, Bell, HJC and others, though I can't remember having an Arai. Since I always wear ear plugs I can't say if it is queiter then the others or not but parts are easy to get, shields are clear, durable and cheap and finish inside and out is good and durable and fit for me is comfortable so I guess it meets most of the needed qualities. Ventalation leaves a little to be desired when it's hot but it seems to keep the shield pretty clear when it's cold out so maybe a more expensive helmet would be superior there....Have a great evening.....Greg delsuhr@... wrote: A must-read article from Motorcyclist Magazine for anyone shopping for a new hat: Motorcycle Helmet Performance: Blowing the Lid Off http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/gearbox/motorcycle_helmet_review/. There is also a Part II but I couldn't find it online. This article, however, has just about all you need to know. There was a time when I wouldn't consider anything without the Snell certification, but this has convinced me to expand my universe to (usually much cheaper) brands I might have otherwise not given a second look. The gist of the article is that many of the DOT-only helmets transmit much lower g-forces at impact (a good thing) than the buckets that must pass the Snell testing. EGS

----- Original Message ----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, February 4, 2008 6:59 pm Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Digest Number 10306 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com DualSportNews' KLR650 Discussion List Messages In This Digest (25 Messages) 7a. 8a. How to eval a helmet. From: mikeypep 8b. Re: How to eval a helmet. From: Zachariah Mully 8c. Re: How to eval a helmet. From: Jim Douglas 8d. Re: How to eval a helmet. From: fasteddiecopeman 8e. Re: How to eval a helmet. From: Arden Kysely 9. How easy to service new '08 KLR 650? From: ferrisl View All Topics | Create New Topic Messages 1a. How to eval a helmet. Posted by: "mikeypep" mikeypep@... mikeypep Mon Feb 4, 2008 1:59 pm (PST) Before we get to a tire thread, can we look a a helmet question? Based on extensive test results cost does not effect safety. A $400 Arai is not twice as "safe"as a $200 HJC, or even a $100 Scorpion. Lets call that a given(please). Comfort is somewhat relevant in that a lower cost helmet may be more comfortable than a more expensive one due to fit, although the expensive ones tend to be more comfortable. What about noise. It seems to me that modulars are more noisy (wind noise) than a solid full face, lower cost helmets seem to be noisier than more expensive ones and lighter too. Just does one look to achieve ini using the more expensive helmets? Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (5) 8b. Re: How to eval a helmet. Posted by: "Zachariah Mully" zmully@... mackzully Mon Feb 4, 2008 2:06 pm (PST) On Mon, 2008-02-04 at 21:59 +0000, mikeypep wrote: > Just does one look to achieve ini using > the more expensive helmets? I think you meant: "Just what does one look to achieve by wearing a more expensive helmet?" Trying wearing one for a week for 10 hours a day and you'll find out. Comfort, noise, and weight are all major factors. That, and regardless of how hard I've tried, I've never found a single cheap ( > On Mon, 2008-02-04 at 21:59 +0000, mikeypep wrote: > > Just does one look to achieve ini using > > the more expensive helmets? > Of course the salesman will say 'How much is your head worth", well actually they don't make a 5M dollar helmet! > > > __ Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (5) 8d. Re: How to eval a helmet. Posted by: "fasteddiecopeman" fasteddiecopeman@... fasteddiecopeman Mon Feb 4, 2008 3:08 pm (PST) Mike, IMHO ....;>), When you see a **** for $100, and a **** Hayden Replica for $400 (YOU fill in the blanks), the ONLY difference being the paint job, somebody's doing somebody! I look for a sticker saying "Snell and DOT", then I look at the price, then I try them on, CHEAPEST one first. The one that feels the best at the LOWEST price gets the nod. (I have a Shoei, 2 KBC's, 2 HJC's(?), an O'neal and an Answer Racing. The Shoei was $130 on clearance while the rest AVERAGE about $55 EACH, so I look REALLY hard for, and take advantage of, SALES.) I ALWAYS use ear-plugs, so they're all about equally quiet, though I'm sure they're NOT! Two of them have been to Alaska and back thru days and days of rain and cold, and I was toasty and comfortable. Do I have one I instinctively WON'T choose? NOPE - anyone, anyday! Cheers, Ed Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (5) 8e. Re: How to eval a helmet. Posted by: "Arden Kysely" arden646@... dualsportz Mon Feb 4, 2008 3:15 pm (PST) --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Zachariah Mully wrote: snipp... > "Just what does one look to achieve by wearing a more expensive helmet?" > > Trying wearing one for a week for 10 hours a day and you'll find out. > Comfort, noise, and weight are all major factors. That, and regardless > of how hard I've tried, I've never found a single cheap ( that is anywhere close to being as comfortable as my Art Friedman Orange > Shoei RF800. > > Plus, parts are far easier to find for Shoei/Arai/HJC. > > Z > Good point on the part availability, Z. Here's what I look at. Fit & comfort--does the helmet fit your head snugly but with no pressure points? Is the liner comfy? A helmet with a lousy liner can fit but not be comfortable. Don't confuse a loose fitting helmet for comfortable, as they can come off or twist on your head in a crash. A new helmet should be very snug. A good fitting helmet is likely to be quieter as well. Weight & aerodynamics--a heavier helmet or one with poor aerodynamics will wear you out much sooner that a light one with good aeros. Does is twist your head to the side when you turn your head at speed? Operability--can you work the vent thingies with your gloves on, do the vents ventilate or does the liner block them, does the shield seal well, can you remove it easily, is the liner removable so you can wash it? Durability--do the plastic parts stay on or fall off, does the shield scratch easily, does the chin strap fray, does the liner pill? Color--brighter is better, IMO. AF oranges sounds good. My fave is the Sport Yellow that Arai used to make. Noise--I wear ear plugs. Still, I notice the difference between a full- face, a flip-up, and an XD style dual-sport helmet. I have several helmets from various makers and price points. My daily rider is a Scorpion EXO which I can lock to the bike without worrying about. It's a little heavy for long rides, otherwise I'm quite happy with it. __Arden Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post Messages in this topic (5) 9. Recent Activity 21 New Members 18 New Photos Visit Your Group Health Zone Look your best! 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