k&n questions...really confused

[RL]

Hey guys, I have done a bit of research on Slime and related products and have come to some conclusions. IMHO Slime has a formulation problem in that if left in freezing temperatures it becomes acidic and can eat away at metal it touches. If left above frozen temperatures it is a fine sealant. There is another product I like better, though it is harder to find. It is made by American Sealants in Clay Center, Kansas. Called AmeriSeal, I find it at Tractor Supply (TSC) and in smaller bottles at some big RV Centers. The reason I like it is because it is the product used by heavy equipment operators, and many of the drivers of those truck "trains" in the Australian Outback (aluminum wheels). I use it in all my bikes. For dirt and tubes I think about 16 oz in each tire is the right amount. Last time I was at Tractor Supply I bought several bottles so I don't know how much it even costs anymore. I think I paid less than $10 per quart. RL -- RL Lemke Dallas, Texas http://DualSportMagazine.com 2001 Ozarks Fall Color Tour: http://www.dualsportmagazine.com/NewFiles/RidePhotos.htm http://www.pbase.com/rllemke - Look here for GS trip photos from California.

[RichardM]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., IronJungle@H... wrote:

>Wouldn't you want the valve at the top (12 o'clock), not the bottom??

When the stem is pointing down, any Slime that may be trapped in there cannot drain out. You could place the stem at 6 o'clock and probably not have a problem unless you've dumped in a gallon of the stuff and put the base of the stem "underwater". More of a problem with pedalbikes than on real bikes. RM

[dooden]

200 hundred mile intervals ? Who really goes that long without changing the oil (synth of course), the filter, air filter, fork oil, adjust the rear shock, tighten the steering head bearings, re-torque the sub-frame bolts and replace with some exotic metal replacement, remove and clean chain, then re- oil with (synth again) oil, change the doohicky, adjust the valves, change carb jetting yet once again, and remove the swingarm and regrease all bearings. Now how can anybody expect to get 50 or 60k miles outta the KLR by ignoring all that maintance every 100 miles or month whatever comes first. Jeeesh Duden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "ridecaptan" wrote: > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "btl6847" wrote: > > Hey, > > With all the discussions about whether to use a K&N filter or > not, > > I have a few questions; 1. If I run a K&N filter, do I have to let > > the bike warm up more, or less, because of the added airflow? Or, > do > > I not want to start the bike? 2. If I run regular K&N oil in the > > filter, will I have problems? What if I change that oil to a > > synthetic type, will I get better life out of the engine? And the > > filter? Will the synthetic oil grab more dirt, thus letting the > > filter do a better job? 3. If paper/foam filters are better, then > why > > do some listers swear by the metal mesh filter for the oil system > > Arrowhead sells? I thought paper was good. > > > > Brian > > A12 > > > > > > The key advantages with the metal mesh oil filters are: > 1) They filter out smaller particles. > 2) They are reuseable. But this is only cost effective if you are > anal about changing your oil, like every 200 miles or so, like some I > know do. I think that might be overdoing it a tad. > > Ed > A15